Split Size Opinions needed

[Garbanzo62]

Looking for opinions.

Should I split these Smaller? Most (95%) is Red Oak. My meter only goes up to 42% and these read Over the Limit. I am trying to weigh a bigger split for longer burns versus smaller splits to dry faster. What is the consensus on Width and Height for Oak splits?

 

[Wildflush]

I vary my splits of oak. I like about 16” long and vary my split diameter 3” to 6”. As you know oak takes time many say 2-3 years to get under 20%. I personally would split yours again in half. One on the left looks very wet.

 

[Simonkenton]

You are burning wood with a MC higher than 42 percent?

 

[Garbanzo62]

You are burning wood with a MC higher than 42 percent?

No No No.. These will be for future year. The rounds have been sitting for over a year (so I am told). I am just trying to figure out optimal size to split now so that they can dry in a reasonable amount of time but not be too small to cause them to burn out too fast.

 

[gzecc]

IMO, red oak takes three years to season to ~20%. I split oak small to speed seasoning on fresh oak. Sometimes you'll find oak branches, that have been seasoning in the round for 20 yrs in the woods. These you can usually split big and use for overnights.

 

[Wildflush]

The trade off is split small dries in reasonable about of time. Larger figure 2-3 years. Split the difference and split 3” to 5”. My stove calls for 16” long as optimum lengthy 18” max.

 

[Garbanzo62]

OK.. I'll have to undo the stack Split at least once more and re-stack. Wife will give me crap about 'Re-doing' work, but I can say the stack was unstable with the current splits (which it kinda is).

 

[Wildflush]

OK.. I'll have to undo the stack Split at least once more and re-stack. Wife will give me crap about 'Re-doing' work, but I can say the stack was unstable with the current splits (which it kinda is).

She will really appreciate the dry wood and warm fires without smoke and creosote buildup that can lead to a chimney fire.

Kept telling my buddy in Maine that he was burning too wet of wood mainly oak and fresh Ash. His Jotul’s glass was black and yes he had a chimney fire!

 

[NickW]

Those would be great overnight chunks in 3-5 years. If you want to burn them in 2-3 years I agree with @Wildflush and half them... If you want them for next winter third them and they will still be iffy I bet. Even ash chunks that size will take a good 2 summers.

 

[Ashful]

Each of those splits would be 2 - 3 splits for me, if I weren't such a wood snob as to reject any non-uniform lengths.

 

[CatfishHunter]

When I'm splitting rounds or kindling, I want a variety of sizes. Therefore I split the round and set the smaller of the two pieces aside. I split the bigger of the two, then set the smaller of those two aside and split the bigger one. I continue this until I have the smallest split that I desire. This always yields me a good variety of sizes. My general feeling is that I can always split something smaller in the future but can't ever put splits back together.

 

[gzecc]

OK.. I'll have to undo the stack Split at least once more and re-stack. Wife will give me crap about 'Re-doing' work, but I can say the stack was unstable with the current splits (which it kinda is).

To get a head start on your seasoning rotation, stay away from oak. Look for maples, ash (plenty around now), birch. Oak takes a log time to season. I always separate it from the other woods. It will easily take two or three summers stacked off the ground loosely. Ash and maples will easily season in 2 summers, possibly one if long dead standing.

 

[Wildflush]

Don’t have the option to stay away from oak. Just split smaller, top cover in the sun with wind blowing through and good to go 1.5 to 2 years. Most sellers in my area sell a mix of hardwood. I can season ash in one year.

 

[Garbanzo62]

I have a bunch of Ash that was dead standing and a little bit of Pine. I split by hand, but I think I might have to re-split a lot of it as I was counting on that for next winter. Ash and Pine should not take long to do, the Oak might take a bit longer

 

[Wildflush]

Ash and pine will be ready next season.

 

[NickW]

Ash and pine will be ready next season.

Not necessarily if they are similar size to those oak splits. He top covers which will help, but mongo size ash and even pine here in WI is burnable usually after 1 summer; but not necessarily under 20%... I've actually had a couple of big ash sizzlers this year that were seasoned 2 summers. 2-3 summers outdoors, then moved into the garage in fall during dry snaps; but I don't top cover. Connecticut may have longer seasoning weather than I have too. I am considering starting to top cover, but don't want to break the bank covering 12-14 cord.

 

[Wildflush]

Not necessarily if they are similar size to those oak splits. He top covers which will help, but mongo size ash and even pine here in WI is burnable usually after 1 summer; but not necessarily under 20%... I've actually had a couple of big ash sizzlers this year that were seasoned 2 summers. 2-3 summers outdoors, then moved into the garage in fall during dry snaps; but I don't top cover. Connecticut may have longer seasoning weather than I have too. I am considering starting to top cover, but don't want to break the bank covering 12-14 cord.

Agree but he said he was resplitting so I was assuming they would be smaller. I top cover but only have 4 cords.

 

[NickW]

Agree but he said he was resplitting so I was assuming they would be smaller. I top cover but only have 4 cords.

Agreed

 

[blades]

tell you what Nick , you can leave the top cover off untill apx end of aug. then it is best to get somthing on top as our monsoon season starts. September is always iffy weather wise, Oct-Nov rains never dry out until the next summer. Cross stack with a top cover works well around here. I was surprised a week ago when I pulled apx 2/3cord to put in basement, ground was bone dry under the stacks, but I was slipping and squishing around in mud moving the splits. been cought a couple times by our weather then fight all winter trying to get stuff dried out . i am out in the sticks ( farm country) lot of almost horizontal rain due to wind. Keeping anything on top is also a challenge. forget about those paper thin tarps at the local stores ,they do not stand up

 

[NickW]

tell you what Nick , you can leave the top cover off untill apx end of aug. then it is best to get somthing on top as our monsoon season starts. September is always iffy weather wise, Oct-Nov rains never dry out until the next summer. Cross stack with a top cover works well around here. I was surprised a week ago when I pulled apx 2/3cord to put in basement, ground was bone dry under the stacks, but I was slipping and squishing around in mud moving the splits. been cought a couple times by our weather then fight all winter trying to get stuff dried out . i am out in the sticks ( farm country) lot of almost horizontal rain due to wind. Keeping anything on top is also a challenge. forget about those paper thin tarps at the local stores ,they do not stand up

Mid to end of August is when I start moving 4-5 cord indoors for the winter.

 

[Ashful]

The trouble with tarps:

1. Firewood has sharp corners, and tends to poke small holes or tears into even the best tarps after awhile. Now your tarp is no longer shedding water, but rather collecting it and funneling it all into the middle of your stack.

2. They blow off in storms, right as all the precipitation is happening.

3. They're often too tight-fitting, inhibiting evaporation off the top of the stack. They're actually a great way to prevent evaporation, and slow the drying of your wood.

4. Almost all of them breakdown with UV exposure = sunlight.

5. Very few shed water well, unless you dome your stacks or put some structure (eg. PVC drain pipe) on top of your stacks, to tent the tarp.

You're much better off with any solid roof over your stacks, whether an actual built roof (see mine), scraps of plywood, thick rubber roofing, corrugated roofing remnants, whatever. Other than the rubber roofing, they all allow pretty good airflow beneath. They can also be arranged to shed water away from the stacks, just be mindful which way you aim the corrugations on corrugated roofing remnants.

 

[blades]

All True, I had a shelterlogic 8x12 that I put up in Aug. didn't make it to the end of Sept. Lesson learned $. Frame is still good. No protection from my whipping winds. Just shredded it.

 

[Ashful]

All True, I had a shelterlogic 8x12 that I put up in Aug. didn't make it to the end of Sept. Lesson learned $. Frame is still good. No protection from my whipping winds. Just shredded it.

Cover it with clear corrugated roofing, and you've got a killer solar kiln!

 

[Wildflush]

I use commercial tarps very effectively. Most of my stacks are single rows 8 and 10 feet long. Double or triple folded tarp to cover just the top. No sharp edges, does not blow off in the wind. I use para cord with masonry bricks draped over the stacks keeping the tarp on. Sheds moisture since ends are open. My dad did this for over 40 years with no need for a wood shed. I’m sure a 4 cord wood shed cost $2K to make today. If you like you can take tarps off in the summer months which will prevent UV rays from breaking them down. I can buy a lot of cords at $260 each for the $2k I saved on a wood shed. You also need good placement in your yard for a shed. Not everybody has this option.

 

[ozarkoak]

All I really burn is red/white oak and some hickory. Those are gigantic. I would probably get 3 splits out of each of those. I like most of my wood fairly small though. 40% wood is not fun. Split small, criss cross stack in full sun and full wind.