Splitter Hyd Oil Use

[jebatty]

After many years of not having to add hyd oil to the tank, and the splitter operating sluggishly, I check the oil, it was low, added oil, and the splitter operated as usual. But after just a couple hours of use, the oil was down low again. I see no leaks, do not see any smoke or smell anything like might come from burning oil, and am perplexed as to where the oil is going. Any thoughts?

 

[Halligan]

Thats odd, Hydraulic systems don't "burn" oil like an internal combustion engine. Generally oil loss is from a leak. My only guess in when you filled the system and began running the splitter again you had air in the lines and pump that purged out and now your oil level dropped. Add oil until it's at the full mark and monitor from here.

 

[Jags]

Sluggish hydraulics in a "low oil" situation will tend to be air in the system. You added oil and drove out the air, lowering the oil level yet again. Fill it one more time and monitor. I will bet you will be fine. If it was leaking in any amount it would be visually noticeable, and considering the hydro system is isolated from the engine there is basically no way for the oil to go up in smoke. Two different systems.

 

[xman23]

They will drip out of the pump or just about any other place. Where are you storing the splitter. If it's outside you may not notice over the years.

 

[osagebow]

Run it over some cardboard if the mystery persists, I found a leak that way. Also a good idea when buying a heavily used vehicle. I don't have a CDL License, but I have a POS one.

 

[Allagash350]

Don't check it warm. Lot of oil can stay in piston and lines. Check it cold before you start for the day.
I check mine before startint just because I'm ocd about oil, but it shouldn't be using any.
Also I change mine every season. Again, ocd, but it's cheap insurance changing it in such a dirty environment.

 

[wock]

I agree with what the other guys? have posted. I would also suggest at least changing the filter if it has one. light duty homeowner stuff won't, but the heavier ones will. once you get the machine full again you are likely to find a leak. the oil doesn't burn or evaporate, so it had to go somewhere.

 

[oilstinks]

For what is worth i usually add a quart of tranny fluid to dye the oil and make it easier to see on my dip stick.

 

[wock]

For what is worth i usually add a quart of tranny fluid to dye the oil and make it easier to see on my dip stick.

that's a really bad plan. tranny fluid isn't friendly with rubber.

 

[TreePointer]

that's a really bad plan. tranny fluid isn't friendly with rubber.

The modern splitter manuals I've seen call for hydraulic fluid or ATF, so I don't think it would be an issue. Putting it another way, the hoses used on the splitters are rated for hydraulic fluid and should also be fine with ATF.

 

[oilstinks]

You have rubber seals in your trans.

 

[greg13]

that's a really bad plan. tranny fluid isn't friendly with rubber.

ANY petroleum product will eat rubber, that's why they use rubber compounds.

 

[salecker]

that's a really bad plan. tranny fluid isn't friendly with rubber.

Thats funny.....
transmission cooler liners are rubber,transmission seals are rubber.I add ATF to my hydrolic oil in my 950 loader as well to see it in the sight glass.
My splitter has straight synthetic ATF,i can start it at -20C and the ram will move no problem.

 

[johneh]

that's a really bad plan. tranny fluid isn't friendly with rubber.

Engine oil is bad for rubber makes it swell
ATF is ok in fact it was one of the first rust proofing oils
and is stilled used for that purpose

 

[jebatty]

Found the leak - supply fitting on the reservoir was pressure fit on the tank, and the fitting has loosened. Very slow drip. The fitting is recessed a bit into the tank on the outside. Thinking about using some material to seal around the fitting. Best ideas for a sealant?

 

[jebatty]

I cleaned the area around the fitting on the outside of the reservoir tank, and then used JB Weld to seal the fitting to the tank. Didn't work, leak resumed. Thinking that vibration might have caused the failure of the JB Weld solution. Removed the JB Weld material and cleaned the area again, and then used Shoe Goo, 4 layers with curing time between each, to seal the fitting and build up a collar of support. So far so good. Used the splitter for 3 hours, no leak.

 

[Jags]

Shoe goo - the duct tape of the 21st century...

 

[salecker]

For any stubborn leaks....
Use Hemp...no don't smoke it.
When i built my heating system the guy who sold me the boiler and any parts that i hadn't salvaged over the years turned me onto using hemp on threads.It takes a little time to prepare the threads for hemp but after over 150 threaded fittings of new and old origin with no leaks i will never used anything else.
To do it properly you have to score the threads at a right angle with a sharp chisel,makes the thread look like you have grabbed them with a pipe wrench.Wrap a generous amount of hemp on the treads,then a light coating of pipe dope and thread them in,then you are done.Even if it leaks a bit at first the hemp absorbs liquid and expands stopping the leak.
I was scepitcal at first and did a comparison between hemp,pipe dope, and Teflon tape.When i built my storage tanks i wanted to pressure test the welds so i plugged all the holes.I did an even amount of plus with the three different thread sealers.I pulled on the same wrench about the same pressure for each.
Teflon was the worst.Had to apply more tourque on most of the taped threads,and more on about half of the doped threads and non of the Hemp threads leaked,this test was done with 80 PSI air pressure.
My system is about 5 yrs old now still no leaks,and i still continue to use Hemp on any threaded fittings i work with.
Thomas