Splitter hydraulic issue

[brenndatomu]

Placing a gauge inline would tell you if the cylinder is leaking, instead if using the parts cannon

True...but that pump wasn't that much more than the cost of a good gauge and proper high pressure fittings.
And at this point, leaking piston seals be the only other possibility.
I still like running a gauge though...most people would be surprised how little pressure it really takes to split the vast majority of wood

 

[Slimdusty]

How is the cylinder constructed?
Some are very easy to take apart
snap a pic of it if you want any help to take it apart. You got nothing to loose if you decide on replacing.
Placing a gauge inline would tell you if the cylinder is leaking, instead if using the parts cannon

I do have a guage on it, hence my pressure readings in my earlier posts. Somewhere along the way I went wrong in thinking it was the pump and not the cylinder. So what am I looking for to determine whether the pump or cylinder has failed?

 

[brenndatomu]

So what am I looking for to determine whether the pump or cylinder has failed?

You already have when you replaced the pump.

Prior, you could have taken the front line off (or at least loose) and see if oil is coming out of the front cylinder fitting when you have fully extended the cylinder...it should not, at least not in any volume.
If it does, then the piston seals are bypassing oil back to the return line.

 

[Slimdusty]

You already have when you replaced the pump.

Prior, you could have taken the front line off (or at least loose) and see if oil is coming out of the front cylinder fitting when you have fully extended the cylinder...it should not, at least not in any volume.
If it does, then the piston seals are bypassing oil back to the return line.

Yes, by replacing the pump I proved it to be the cylinder, I should have phrased my question differently, as in before purchasing the pump how should I have better diagnosed the issue. I thought the cylinder was holding pressure because with rod fully extended my pressure guage quickly shoots up to 1500 which is where my relief is set.

 

[brenndatomu]

Gotcha...

 

[salecker]

View attachment 347321View attachment 347322I do have a guage on it, hence my pressure readings in my earlier posts. Somewhere along the way I went wrong in thinking it was the pump and not the cylinder. So what am I looking for to determine whether the pump or cylinder has failed?

You already have the gauge, just relocate it to see if the ram seals are bypassing.

 

[Slimdusty]

Another question. With this cylinder that has no identification markings on it that I have found so far, how am I to purchase a rebuild kit? Do I take all the seals into a hydraulic shop and gets replacements from measuring the old seals?

 

[brenndatomu]

Do I take all the seals into a hydraulic shop and gets replacements from measuring the old seals?

Bingo

 

[Slimdusty]

Alright brenndatomu, salecker, whoever else. I have this nasty thing apart, have a look at the pics and tell me if you would rebuild it or scrap. TIA

 

[salecker]

Inside doesn't look so great
Looks like water is an issue
In your case i would probably get a different cylinder...
If it was me i would be getting o rings and backers as i am in the middle of nowhere. I am sure i can get the parts to rebuild it but to get a new cylinder it would be over a week wait and crazy expensive.
I would use a cylinder hone to clean up the inside and buy a few sets of o rings and backers if it was me.

Do you have a filter on your system? if not that would be a great addition.
And a water drain on the tank so you could drain the water out after its been sitting for a while.

 

[Jags]

Unless you address the condition of that cylinder wall you won't get a set of rings to last very long. Personally I would go new cylinder

 

[Slimdusty]

Inside doesn't look so great
Looks like water is an issue
In your case i would probably get a different cylinder...
If it was me i would be getting o rings and backers as i am in the middle of nowhere. I am sure i can get the parts to rebuild it but to get a new cylinder it would be over a week wait and crazy expensive.
I would use a cylinder hone to clean up the inside and buy a few sets of o rings and backers if it was me.

Do you have a filter on your system? if not that would be a great addition.
And a water drain on the tank so you could drain the water out after its been sitting for a while.

Thanks for the response. I think I would have more time into repairs and cleaning/polishing than what it’s worth. I do have a filter. I picked this cylinder up well used, it sat outside for who knows how long before I came along. That’s probably where the water and rust originated. I keep it stored inside.I have used it close to 5 years I think, now that I’ve seen the inside I am surprised it lasted this long!

 

[Slimdusty]

Unless you address the condition of that cylinder wall you won't get a set of rings to last very long. Personally I would go new cylinder

That’s my plan now, thanks.

 

[Slimdusty]

I am waiting on a cylinder to be back in stock so I can order, but in the meantime another question. My new pump, the intake tube is angled slightly up, it might be hard to see in the picture. I want to adjust it so that it is level. I loosened the nut and carefully tried to move the tube but no luck and didn’t want to get too forceful until further understanding how that works. I believe the threads have some sort of lock tight on them as well. Surely this can be done right? If so, what is the trick to it?View attachment 347525View attachment 347525

 

[brenndatomu]

Pics no worky...but normally yes there is a thread sealer on it that acts as a "loctite" too.
The threads are really fine too, just FYI

 

[Slimdusty]

Pics, second attempt.

 

[qwee]

If the cylinders are back ordered you may not be able to get one. How does one go about finding an aftermarket or used cylinder that will work? Stroke length? Size? Fit? I always see used ones from other applications - like farm equipment.

Doesn't Tractor Supply have a bunch of universal cylinders?

 

[Slimdusty]

If the cylinders are back ordered you may not be able to get one. How does one go about finding an aftermarket or used cylinder that will work? Stroke length? Size? Fit? I always see used ones from other applications - like farm equipment.

Doesn't Tractor Supply have a bunch of universal cylinders?

There are plenty of cylinders available, but I am being picky i guess. My thought is if I am replacing the cylinder I am going to get exactly what I want. It happens to be out of stock but they tell me they will be getting some in stock “early May”, so we shall see. That said I could buy a new cylinder today from numerous companies, the specs for each cylinder are usually pretty straight forward, stoke, bore, rode size, pressure, etc. Just match up with what you have or need.

 

[blades]

Sealant on threads a little heat helps to get things moving. not a torch but like a hair dryer so it doesn't get too hot..

 

[Isaac Carlson]

I had to use a pipe on my pump fitting and it barely cracked loose. They really glue em in there. A new cylinder and new fluid are definitely on the list.

If running a knife setup, you could get away with a 3.5” cylinder and it would be wicked fast with a 16 gpm pump. I have a 3hp electric motor on a 14 gpm pump and a 4” cylinder and it works great. Not the fastest cycle time on the planet but not bad either. I have a 1.8 gpm high pressure side to allow for the reduced hp. It will easily run up over 3,600 psi but I have it turned down to 2,600 to help parts last longer.

 

[VirginiaIron]

Alright, I ran into an issue today with my splitter. I could only build pressure up to about 700 psi while splitting some tough locust wood. I have my relief set at 1500psi and if I cycle the cylinder to the end, my gauge will climb right up to 1500psi, however on a piece of wood it just tops out at about 700.

I think your cylinder walls are worn unevenly and you are getting seal leakage in the early/middle stroke of the cylinder, but on the end of the stroke there is little wear so you get full pressure. New rod seals MIGHT correct this.

All 3 parts are likely 20+ years old. Let’s see if you folks can help me narrow this down. Thanks in advance.

Twenty years might be a problem for high/extremely used equipment but by the looks of it age should not be a problem unless the parts are inferior. My homemade log splitter is currently using the original 2 or 3 stage pump from 1982 and a salvaged cylinder from 1970/60 or earlier that was commandeered to splitting service in 1982.

 

[VirginiaIron]

Is the cylinder bulged at the base or is this an optical illusion?

 

[Slimdusty]

Is the cylinder bulged at the base or is this an optical illusion?
View attachment 347729View attachment 347730

No, it’s not bulged. However, I did can the old cylinder as it wasn’t worth the overhaul effort to me.

 

[Slimdusty]

Ooh ahhh shiny! Cylinder arrived just in time for the weekend. I should have some time to work on it. I’ve got the knife wedge and parts about ready for assembly.

 

[Slimdusty]

I was able give the splitter a trial run this weekend with the new cylinder and knife wedge. Real happy with the upgrade, cycle times noticeably faster which really increases the productivity. This surprised me at how much more wood I could process in the same amount of time. Also, as brenndatomu eluded to earlier in this thread, my 6.5 hp motor has no issues with the new 18.5 gpm pump. Switch over pressure set at about 600 psi. I appreciated his suggestion, otherwise I would have purchased a slower pump.