Stihl 044 Help/Question - Carb

[maple1]

Looking at one & it needs a carb. Quick Ebay info-look didn't find much, as opposed to carbs for other models. What model carb came on this (is it a Zama?), and are there others that will fit more or less directly (Walbro?).

Anybody have one kicking around by chance?

 

[NH_Wood]

Does it need a carb, or is the carb in need of repair - easy to find carb kits on eBay and other places. If it needs the full carb, you can find them - but gets pricey if you can't find a good used carb on eBay. Cheers!

 

[MasterMech]

Carbs for my 460's were around $60 on eBay when I was looking. And I had to clean it out when it got here. Nothing serious, just a light varnishing in the carb that prevented the saw from running as it should.

1128 series saws (MS440 included) all ran Walbro HD series carbs AFAIK.

What is so wrong with the carb on the saw? Most of the time a rebuild kit will include everything you need to get back up and running.

 

[maple1]

It needs a carb. Bit more to the story but right now I'm waiting until it's in my hands to tell it - hopefully this won't fall through.

Did more looking & looks like they came with a Walbro HD-17. I'll see what the dealer might have when I'm in checking out bars hopefully later today - maybe they've got some junkers.

 

[maple1]

OK - after seeing it in person, it doesn't need a carb.

But it does need entire top end & muffler, and air filter & filter baffle. And a few misc. screw/bolts. Somebody, who apparently didn't know the difference between a carb & a top end, selling his buddys basket case, whose g/f apparently threw out half the basket on him by mistake. Or something like that.

Bottom end seems tight & good, case parts didn't seem to be abused - so I decided to get it. No hurry to get it put together, so I'll spend some time collecting parts.

How are these aftermarket top end kits working out - some must be trying them?

 

[MasterMech]

How are these aftermarket top end kits working out - some must be trying them?

I've built two MS460's recently, one OEM, one Aftermarket. You'd be hard pressed to tell the difference running them. See links in my signature for the build on both saws.

There are a TON of aftermarket kits available for 1128 series saws, but I'd stick to one that uses a Nikasil plated cylinder rather than the cheaper chrome plated ones.

(broken link removed to http://www.ebay.com/itm/NIKISIL-PLATED-52mm-BIG-BORE-CYLINDER-PISTON-DUAL-PORT-MUFFLER-STIHL-044-MS440-/140757215674?pt=Concrete_CutOff_Saws&hash=item20c5c8a9ba)

Price small items from your Stihl dealer before ordering them online. There are some guys on eBay that are making very good money on smaller items. Tons of trinkets for sale at 2X list price or used parts with new price tags. Buyer beware.

And those aftermarket "Dual-Port" mufflers you see on eBay for about $30? I am ecstatic about the one on my 2nd 460 and they seem like a quality item too. I have 1 aftermarket and 1 OEM dual-port muffler setup and I wouldn't hesitate to do an aftermarket one again.

More information on dual-port mufflers for these saws.

 

[maple1]

Thanks for the info - I'll check out your build threads.

I was thinking a 70cc saw would be lots for me in stock configuration, so haven't really seriously considered the bigger bore & dual port muffler. The stock carb flows OK for that?

And I think I have a 12mm pin vs. 10mm - but I don't have a pin to measure. The ID of the con rod itself is about 14.5mm though - that correspond to 12mm pin?

 

[MasterMech]

I was thinking a 70cc saw would be lots for me in stock configuration, so haven't really seriously considered the bigger bore & dual port muffler. The stock carb flows OK for that?​

Yup. The aftermarket "big-bore" kits don't make a huge difference in power vs. std. bore. Rumor has it that they need to be ported by an expert to get the most from them. The dual-port is a stupid easy upgrade that should be first on the upgrade list.

And I think I have a 12mm pin vs. 10mm - but I don't have a pin to measure. The ID of the con rod itself is about 14.5mm though - that correspond to 12mm pin?​

As I understand it, all 440's were 12mm pins. Only the early 044's were 10mm.

 

[maple1]

This is an 044 - and I don't think it's an 'early' one. But I'm not sure how to tell for sure. I haven't even seen the serial no. on it yet, and haven't seen in the manuals where to find it. One thing I did notice is the parts manual indicates a riveted model tag is a 'previous model' part - this one has no rivets.

How much does the decomp button help with starting these things? Are they usually pretty fail safe? I actually don't think I've ever started a 70cc saw before, unless it was a looong time ago - or one with a decomp button. Some kits don't have the decomp - I'm thinking maybe I should get one that has it.

 

[MasterMech]

How much does the decomp button help with starting these things?

It helps but I have zero trouble pulling my MS460's over without it. Serial number is stamped on a flat near the clutch cover/muffler at the front of the saw.