Separate names with a comma.
Posted By ecfinn,
Jul 25, 2006 at 1:54 AM
Good size for firewood . 20 lbs , You have some good arms and shoulders brotherman .
Team Husqvarna .
Your not the only one running poulan/craftsman saws. I have 3 here. The third one will be working fine, after I install the carb I rebuit. All early to mid 80's vintage Not bad for 2.3 cc saws. Kinda nice not hauling monster around all the time., I have bought none of them, given to me not running. Usually its just replacing the gas line routed threw the handle. I also still have a late 70's Stihl farm boss heavy german made plenty of torx, a cutting fool. Then my working vintage 1968 mac 10 10 . still cuts amazingly well. noisy loudest I swear ever made. Some day I will get a modern saw. My next will be a 14/16" Makita electric. If in the gas saw market, I like the Dolmar saks or Makita saws as well, Stihl and no box store huskies, Pro huskies I'm fine with
If I ever need another one it will be a box store Poulan. Dance and leave with the one that brung ya.
I am a husky man, but to tell you the truth. i like them both, how do you compare two great products?
There are both great chainsaws ( Husqvarna - Stihl ) You have to keep in mind , You need the right chainsaw for the right job . One shouldn't buy a "yard clean up" chainsaw of a small size and expect to cut 6 cords a year with it . The smaller Husqvarnas and Stihls are made for yard work around the house and or small trees and limbing of bigger trees . You want a "good" chainsaw for firewood of 4+ cords a year then you need to step up and buy a bigger chainsaw . You need a chainsaw for faster cutting , easy of use and would like it to last a real long time then one needs to step up to a "PRO" chainsaw model . Its funny to see people buy a $99. Poulan Wildthing model chainsaw or a "small" Husqvarna / Stihl and get upset that the chainsaw is not a good saw when they want to cut 8 cords a year with it . Its like buying a small truck and pulling cars / pulling heavy trailers / big loads of wood and or overworking what it was made for and getting upset that that brand truck is junk because it breaks down . There are many choices out there . One need to get the right size / model chainsaw for there needs .
I'm a Stihl man, but my experience is limited to a couple saws and an awesome pro weedeater. I also now have the Farm Boss. So far it's been a good tool, though I haven't given it a hard workout yet. The best local tree person here uses Husky's and Shindawa. All good saws as far as I can tell.
Exactly, i run a husky 372xp and a small pro arbor saw they make. I bought the 345 once, and took it right back, it didnt have the guts that i wanted it to have. Now the 372xp is wicked.
I think anybody cutting wood for firewood needs at least 2 chainsaws . 1 for felling / bucking the larger stuff and 1 for smaller trees and limbing . A all around good match (awesome match ) to the 372xp is the 346xp ( or for the Stihl guys MS260 & MS440 / MS460 ) The 346xp is like the 372xp in a smaller package and light weight . My 346xp does 80% of the all around work until the beast has to be let out of the case. WOW them there saws are fast yall .
I tend to over do things, LOL. A chain saw with 5.4 horsepower makes you grin, That saw will almost run a go cart, and at ~14 lbs, i can run it all day long, as long as i dont cut somthing off that im not supposed to. When i built my house up here in these hills, i had to clear 60 plus trees. I had no choice but to get a quality saw. I tell you what, the first time i cranked that thing up it scared me. It was the first saw i had owned.
Ha , I can picture that . When i fired up my 372xp for the first time it took me by surprise too and i had used chainsaws for years. I used it for about 8 tanks of gas then did a muffler mod to it and adjusted the carb & tached it , thats when it really shined . I got about an extra 15 -20% power out of it .
At least two saws on any trip into the trees are a must for me. One for falling trees and cutting the big stuff. One for limbing and cutting up the smaller stuff.
Both for getting the other one out of a log when I bind the sucker and can't get it out.
What's it run to have the muffler mod, carb adjusted,tached etc? thanks
What's it run to have the muffler mod, carb adjusted,tached etc? thanks[/quote] Private Message ( PM ) sent to your inbox Vintage 181 .
Thanks Roospike. Just got back in.
What's that baby sound like? Looks cool. You did all the fabrication? Looks really sharp..
Is it significantly louder than the stock saw?
Custom mufflers / side 45° pipe mufflers & hole mufflers are louder . I wouldnt say the pipe exhausts are louder then the hole style. I normally dont get crazy with pipe / hole sizes and still keep some back pressure. Little louder , yes. When you open up the muffler it keeps the motor cooler and runs a lot better . Some of the cat mufflers they put on chiansaws today get so damb hot it melts plastic top covers and chainbrakes. The 45° pipe and also the shotgun mufflers are more "awesome looking" than anything and do about the same as just the front hole screen style. A lot of people use the pipe sytle mufflers to direct the exhause heat away from there work . Popular for a milling chainsaw to direct exhause away. I own a welding shop so the custom work and welding is not a problem . I do requested custom work and also custom ideas of my own . Just as a side note: As i do own my own fabrication shop i dont "Push" sales off on forum members but do custom work as "requested". As noted on the PM's back and forth there are ways do do these ones self and do offer links and ideas of how to do ones own mods . I'll also get request for heavy duty wood stove pokers , fire place grates , fixed many wood stoves and parts over the years. You end up seeing a lot of over fired wood stoves over the years.