Stone chimney and wood stove pic picture?

[Crash6882]

I am currently building a new house. We are putting up a two story stone chimney inside the great room and we will.use a wood stove. I want the lopi cape cod but my wife said she doesnt.want.to look at the pipe. ( of coarse she waited till 3 wks before the chimney is built to say it). She wants the jotul since the.pipe will go.right out the back. The house is 3200sq so I feel the.lopi will heat it better and have a better burn time.

Does anyone have any pics of a 2 story chimney with a woodstove that has a pipe.that goes 4 ft above it???

 

[begreen]

Peruse through the gallery. Lots of different types of installations there. Considering this is new construction I have to emphasize that going straight up with a chimney in the interior or the house is best. Stone cold chimneys can be balky and easy to build up creosote inside. If exterior, at least consider putting in an insulated metal chimney and then chase it with a stone veneer. For large traditional looking stoves consider the Jotul F600, Quadrafire Explorer III, and Hearthstone Manchester.
https://www.hearth.com/gall/v/WoodStoves/wssoap48.jpg.html

Chimney design and location info:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/chimneys_an_unexact_science/
http://www.woodheat.org/all-about-chimneys.html

Another option for large square footage is to put in a high-efficiency EPA fireplace. There are several beautiful options there like the Kozy Z42, Lennox Montecito, Quadrafire 7100, RSF Opel3, etc. that are worth looking at. Another advantage with these units are that some of the heat can be ducted to another part of the house for more even heat.

 

[Grisu]

Have you thought about an efficient fireplace with its steel chimney in a chase? It will be much cheaper to build, heat as efficiently as a woodstove, looks and feels pretty much like a fireplace, and some units allow ducts to move the heat to other areas of the house. Here are some examples:

(broken link removed to http://www.kozyheat.com/mobile/product/z42)
http://www.fireplacex.com/ProductGuide/ProductDetail.aspx?modelsku=98500104
http://www.pacificenergy.net/products/wood/fireplaces/fp30/

There are many more units available if you are interested.

 

[begreen]

there's an echo in this room.

 

[Crash6882]

I was trying to stay away from inserts, my buddy had a very good one installed and it doesn't seem to be as efficient as a traditional woodstove. Even he says it's not as good as a woodstove but is better than just a fireplace. He also burns more wood per yr than my parents do and we run our woodstove 24 7.

 

[firefighterjake]

Not sure if it is 4 feet . . .

 

[Grisu]

An EPA-approved zero clearance fireplace is essentially a wood stove in an additional steelbox. That enclosure allows it to be installed with minimal clearances to combustibles. You certainly won't get much radiant heat from one which may give the impression they don't heat as well. In practice they will make up for it in pushing out a lot of convective heat. Here is a thread of a former member who installed one by himself: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/building-the-hearth-for-my-napoleon-nz3000-what-a-quest.74273/
There are many units on the market; I am sure you will find one that you and your wife likes. And there won't be any chimney pipe to look at.

As for the masonry chimney: That's really an expense that does not make much sense nowadays. After building it you still have to drop down an insulated steel liner for the stove to work well. It will be much better to install a class A chimney in an enclosed chase like in this scheme: https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/119/119602-afe1669d0a4d46aaa81e5c4fdabaf324.jpg That will be much cheaper and you can cover the outside with stone veneer or any other facing you would like. The class A is insulated ensuring good draft and safe operation.

As for your buddy: Does his install have a full insulated liner and a block-off plate? https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/make-a-damper-sealing-block-off-plate/

 

[Crash6882]

Sorry for not being clear. It is going to be a class A chimney encased in stone veneer. As far as his insert he did have to replace the flu and liner so I'm not sure.


I'm going tomorrow to look at a vermont casting defiant and see if the exhaust pipe can just come.out the back and into the class A chimney

 

[begreen]

Please read up on VC stoves. There are several others I would consider as alternatives, the Jotul F600 being one.

Also, straight out the back into the chimney applications lock you into a thimble height custom fit to the stove. There have been more than one poster here that fought this problem later on as they upgraded or changed out the stove. Your original plan with a 3-4' vertical top exit is better and it offers you a wider range of stove choices. I'd stick with it. Your wife will grumble a bit, but she will get used to it.

 

[Grisu]

Sorry for not being clear. It is going to be a class A chimney encased in stone veneer.

Good, that makes much more sense. I agree with BeGreen's comment that a low wall thimble will limit future stove choices and that a VC may not be the most reliable option. Alas, here are some large models that allow rear-venting: Jotul F600 and F55, Hearthstone Manchester, Woodstock Progress Hybrid and Ideal Steel, Quadrafire Explorer 3 (new stove). Do a forum search to get further info and reviews about those.

As for your buddy, send him over here and maybe we can help him to get more heat out of his insert.