Stonecraft Installation Question

[Chris611]

I am looking to install some stonecraft stone veneer around my fireplace. I went to their website and read the directions. It says that I need 2 layers of water resistive barrier. I would image that this is when used on the outside of a house. I won't need that will I? Also, it doesn't seem to matter if I have plywood or concrete backer board on the wall, they require wire mesh and a scratch coat. Does that sound like what others have done who have installed this stone? The stone is what Lowes sells.

Thanks
Chris

 

[CarbonNeutral]

I was going to do stone veneer - it was my understanding that I just needed the wire mesh and scratch coat - my wire mesh would have gone over drywall in some places.

Take and post pics as you progress!

 

[begreen]

I would do the metal lath + scratch coat on concrete backer board. AFAIK, no need for the weather barrier for interior work.

 

[sullystull]

I would do the metal lath + scratch coat on concrete backer board. AFAIK, no need for the weather barrier for interior work.

+1 that is exactly how I installed my stonecraft veneer.

 

[Hogwildz]

Depends on what the surface is that your putting the veneer on.
Even if you use cement board, you still have to put wire lath over it.
I am doing 4 pallets of stone at the moment.
Over unpainted concrete, stucco or cement, you can mortar the stone directly to the concrete, just make sure there is no oils etc bleeding out.
Painted concrete, stucco etc, you need to use metal lathe.
Over cement board, plywood, foam insulation, etc. etc, the directions for Owens Corning Cultures stone I'm using says to use 2 layers of barrier, this is for interior or exterior.
I'm thinking the reasoning is mortar & stone do wick moisture out of the air which may cause the backerboard to rot, I dunno. But thats what my stuff calls for.
I used 2 layers of 15 pound roofing felt. If you going directly over open studs, you need to use the heavier mesh with the weather barrier pre installed to it.
On the painted concrete walls, I used Hilti shots with pins & washers to secure the lathe. Over the stud walls, I used some OSB board that was laying around, 2 layres of tar paper, the mesh, and 1/2 coat of mortar over the mesh, then buttered the back of each stone and set it in the mortar over the mesh. Sticks well.
The directions for the stuff I have gave several choices for going over the wood, foam, cement board etc,...... 1. mortar the mesh and stick the stones on, only doing enough that you can get it installed without the mortar drying.
2. Or butter the back of the stone & stick it on the mesh, 3. or mortar the mesh & butter the stones. I did option 3 , always overkill, but it holds.
My directions say very clearly, weather barrier on both interior & exterior. Yours may be different, I dunno. Better safe than sorry. The barrier is not expensive.
Its very tedious work. I'm using dry/tight stacked, and it took me 12 hours to do about a 5-1/2' x 5-1/5' area last night. Some type or design is easier than others.

 

[Yagminas Masonry and Wood-heat]

Depends on what the surface is that your putting the veneer on.
Even if you use cement board, you still have to put wire lath over it.
I am doing 4 pallets of stone at the moment.
Over unpainted concrete, stucco or cement, you can mortar the stone directly to the concrete, just make sure there is no oils etc bleeding out.
Painted concrete, stucco etc, you need to use metal lathe.
Over cement board, plywood, foam insulation, etc. etc, the directions for Owens Corning Cultures stone I'm using says to use 2 layers of barrier, this is for interior or exterior.
I'm thinking the reasoning is mortar & stone do wick moisture out of the air which may cause the backerboard to rot, I dunno. But thats what my stuff calls for.
I used 2 layers of 15 pound roofing felt. If you going directly over open studs, you need to use the heavier mesh with the weather barrier pre installed to it.
On the painted concrete walls, I used Hilti shots with pins & washers to secure the lathe. Over the stud walls, I used some OSB board that was laying around, 2 layres of tar paper, the mesh, and 1/2 coat of mortar over the mesh, then buttered the back of each stone and set it in the mortar over the mesh. Sticks well.
The directions for the stuff I have gave several choices for going over the wood, foam, cement board etc,...... 1. mortar the mesh and stick the stones on, only doing enough that you can get it installed without the mortar drying.
2. Or butter the back of the stone & stick it on the mesh, 3. or mortar the mesh & butter the stones. I did option 3 , always overkill, but it holds.
My directions say very clearly, weather barrier on both interior & exterior. Yours may be different, I dunno. Better safe than sorry. The barrier is not expensive.
Its very tedious work. I'm using dry/tight stacked, and it took me 12 hours to do about a 5-1/2' x 5-1/5' area last night. Some type or design is easier than others.

Right on Hog! Rarely do I see people following the instructions included. I've seen bull-dog used, thinset, screws-you name it! I prefer Type "n" Portland-lime. Here's a pic of one of my favorite jobs. Plywood-tarpaper-lath-scratch-butter wall-butter stone. Still solid! The mantel is butternut rubbed with oil and mounted with bolts in pockets painted black.

 

[Hogwildz]

Depends on what the surface is that your putting the veneer on.
Even if you use cement board, you still have to put wire lath over it.
I am doing 4 pallets of stone at the moment.
Over unpainted concrete, stucco or cement, you can mortar the stone directly to the concrete, just make sure there is no oils etc bleeding out.
Painted concrete, stucco etc, you need to use metal lathe.
Over cement board, plywood, foam insulation, etc. etc, the directions for Owens Corning Cultures stone I'm using says to use 2 layers of barrier, this is for interior or exterior.
I'm thinking the reasoning is mortar & stone do wick moisture out of the air which may cause the backerboard to rot, I dunno. But thats what my stuff calls for.
I used 2 layers of 15 pound roofing felt. If you going directly over open studs, you need to use the heavier mesh with the weather barrier pre installed to it.
On the painted concrete walls, I used Hilti shots with pins & washers to secure the lathe. Over the stud walls, I used some OSB board that was laying around, 2 layres of tar paper, the mesh, and 1/2 coat of mortar over the mesh, then buttered the back of each stone and set it in the mortar over the mesh. Sticks well.
The directions for the stuff I have gave several choices for going over the wood, foam, cement board etc,...... 1. mortar the mesh and stick the stones on, only doing enough that you can get it installed without the mortar drying.
2. Or butter the back of the stone & stick it on the mesh, 3. or mortar the mesh & butter the stones. I did option 3 , always overkill, but it holds.
My directions say very clearly, weather barrier on both interior & exterior. Yours may be different, I dunno. Better safe than sorry. The barrier is not expensive.
Its very tedious work. I'm using dry/tight stacked, and it took me 12 hours to do about a 5-1/2' x 5-1/5' area last night. Some type or design is easier than others.

Right on Hog! Rarely do I see people following the instructions included. I've seen bull-dog used, thinset, screws-you name it! I prefer Type "n" Portland-lime. Here's a pic of one of my favorite jobs. Plywood-tarpaper-lath-scratch-butter wall-butter stone. Still solid! The mantel is butternut rubbed with oil and mounted with bolts in pockets painted black.

That looks nice man. Is that one of those fireplaces that has the flames come up right out of the stones?
I used Mason Mix, didn't feel like even more time or mixing different bags of stuff. I'm impressed with the mason mix, stuff is tough.