Stove advice

[WestKY]

I know this question has been asked a lot and I have done a bit of research, but still looking for advice. Building a new house in Western Kentucky, zone 4a House will be on the better side of well sealed and insulated, but not passive certified. 2100 sf main floor, 2100 sf basement. Mostly open floorplan. Planning on a fireplace with an insert on the main floor, occasionally used for shoulder season and aesthetics. Hope to use the stove in the basement for main heat source. I have no brand loyalty, haven't heated with wood (or coal) since I was a kid growing up in a leaky log cabin in Massachusetts. Stoves are not on exterior walls, but not really centrally located either. Not really concerned with the look of the stove in basement, want something that will be safe, efficient and last a long time. Currently looking at the PE Alderlea T6 and the Jotul F 500, but interested in models from Kuma and Drolet. Not a lot of dealers in my area. Have access to hundreds of acres of hardwood. Thank you.

 

[begreen]

Building a masonry fireplace just to put an insert in is expensive and unnecessary. Has a good, EPA Zero Clearance fireplace considered as an alternative?

If building new, be sure the basement walls (and ideally the floor) are insulated. That will make a huge difference in heating. Also, consider carefully the location of the stove and stairwell. The stairwell should be large and open. Will this be a daylight basement so that it's easy to bring in wood from the outside?

 

[Woody Stover]

I got my SIL an Alderlea T5. The PE stoves seem to have the fewest moving parts and the simplest design. The floating firebox sounds like a good idea.

 

[carpniels]

I agree with BeGreen: why build an entirely unnecessary brick chimney? Any other chimney is cheaper and more efficient, like BeGreen said. Also, I've always read here that stoves are room heaters, so why put it in a basement, when you need heat upstairs? And why have an insert upstairs and then another $6K wood stove in the basement. Are you gonna run both at the same time? That's a LOT of wood to cut and carry.... My suggestion is to get a REALLY good insert upstairs that will heat everything up there and get good insulation in the basement and floor so that place stays 'warm'. Perhaps spend some more time learning and visiting/calling wood stove dealers (or posting specific questions here) so you don't make a mistake you can't undue during the building process.

 

[EbS-P]

House will be on the better side of well sealed and insulated, but not passive certified. 2100

This means nothing. Less than 2 AHC50? R60 in the attic? How about a manual J?

Put a heat pump and an 3 cu ft stove.

 

[WestKY]

Building a masonry fireplace just to put an insert in is expensive and unnecessary. Has a good, EPA Zero Clearance fireplace considered as an alternative?

If building new, be sure the basement walls (and ideally the floor) are insulated. That will make a huge difference in heating. Also, consider carefully the location of the stove and stairwell. The stairwell should be large and open. Will this be a daylight basement so that it's easy to bring in wood from the outside?

I am working with the builder on the insulation of the walls and floors. The stove in the basement is near the stairwell with the plan for the heat to rise up. Yes the basement is daylighted to allow wood to be brought in.

 

[WestKY]

This means nothing. Less than 2 AHC50? R60 in the attic? How about a manual J?

Put a heat pump and an 3 cu ft stove.

I knew I was going to get beat up about not knowing the exact ACH and other details. I am working with the builder to get the air sealing and insulation plan. Probably closer to R48 in the attic unless I go with closed cell foam. Unfortunately in an area with not a lot of codes I am having to find contractors who understand what I am looking for. There will be a heat pump and ERV.

 

[WestKY]

I agree with BeGreen: why build an entirely unnecessary brick chimney? Any other chimney is cheaper and more efficient, like BeGreen said. Also, I've always read here that stoves are room heaters, so why put it in a basement, when you need heat upstairs? And why have an insert upstairs and then another $6K wood stove in the basement. Are you gonna run both at the same time? That's a LOT of wood to cut and carry.... My suggestion is to get a REALLY good insert upstairs that will heat everything up there and get good insulation in the basement and floor so that place stays 'warm'. Perhaps spend some more time learning and visiting/calling wood stove dealers (or posting specific questions here) so you don't make a mistake you can't undue during the building process.

I am going to discuss with the builder and Mason about the chimney plans. The quote for everything did not seem too crazy to me. The reason I want the main stove in the basement is to keep the mess down there. I grew up carrying wood and coal through the house to an inefficient stove in the living room while I had a friend who had a stove in their basement that kept the whole house warm, I would like a similar system. Not a whole lot of stove dealers around here, but I have found one to talk to, that's how I ended up here. Thank you.

 

[begreen]

I am going to discuss with the builder and Mason about the chimney plans. The quote for everything did not seem too crazy to me. The reason I want the main stove in the basement is to keep the mess down there. I grew up carrying wood and coal through the house to an inefficient stove in the living room while I had a friend who had a stove in their basement that kept the whole house warm, I would like a similar system. Not a whole lot of stove dealers around here, but I have found one to talk to, that's how I ended up here. Thank you.

This will depend on the builder's knowledge of fireplaces and options. It would help him if you present a clear vision of what is desired. Look at high efficiency fireplaces by RSF, Pacific Energy, FPX, etc. to learn more about options.

 

[EbS-P]

will be a heat pump and ERV.

my intent was not to beat you up. You’re doing all the right things. Codes or not you need clear testable metrics for your contractors. Like a blower door test. If they have never built anything tight and want to learn give them an opportunity but have clear contractual language.

Skip the ERV and just go with ventilating dehumidifier. Do R60 in the attic. Put the stove wherever you spend the most time. Put each level of the house on its own HVAC zone. Get a large heatpump water heater. Use an Insulated exterior sheeting system like zip system R5. Flow these recommendations you will have the most comfortable and efficient house you have ever lived in.

Here is a graph of the RH in my house. AC ran quite a bit the beginning of the month but then it got wet and rainy. I don’t see how an ERV can handle humidity in that shoulder season in a tight house. I don’t have mine set up as a ventilating dehumidifier as my house is leaky 1960s ranch but I can measure CO2 levels in excess of 900 ppm this time of year. If your hvac contractor hasn’t done much with well insulated and sealed homes do your homework. Maybe pay for a manual J and D to be done by someone who has experience with this type of construction after you get a blower door number.

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[kborndale]

I knew I was going to get beat up about not knowing the exact ACH and other details. I am working with the builder to get the air sealing and insulation plan. Probably closer to R48 in the attic unless I go with closed cell foam. Unfortunately in an area with not a lot of codes I am having to find contractors who understand what I am looking for. There will be a heat pump and ERV.

Don't use closed cell in your attic, only open cell. With closed cell you won't know if your roof develops a leak and the wood will just rot away.