Stove air flow control does NOT appear to be working

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

JDfromRI

Member
Hearth Supporter
Nov 16, 2007
20
Northern Rhode Island
Happy Holidays Everyone - hope you all had a Happy New Year's.

So, as some of you may have seen a few of my first posts regarding installing and first burns of a new woodstove, you'll recall that I am newbie to all of this and am learning a lot as I go. Okay, down to business...

The first week of burns have been great with my Century noncat. Having lots of fun, getting great heat and enjoying the silence of my oil burner (after having filled twice already since November to the tune of $1040 total so far @ 3.199 a gallon - sheesh!!). I put a Rutland magnetic thermometer on the stove top and have been keeping temps, in general, betwen 400-500*F during burns. I would let the stove burn hot for the first couple hours or so to get some heat started fast and then I'd start to damp her down to increase burn time. First few days, no problem.

Starting yesterday and into today, I am now seeing that my air flow/draft control on the front of hte stove is doing nothing to damp the fire. Basically, turn her down all the way and flames still dance as if I had too much draft. Door appears tightly closed, ash pan is fully seated although I do see that the biggest area of coals are on top of the ash cleanout brick in the firebox. I am suspicous that there is air entering hte stove from the ash pan drawer box. Does this happen?

It also appears that the draft control is working properly - at least the mechanical action is. Any thoughts?

FOr background, this stove is the Century FW247001, 6" flue. This is a TTW installation using Selkirk superpipe double wall inside (~4ft vert off stove into 90* and 12" into Class A - total inside length = 5.5', again, 4ft is vert, 1.5' is horizontal). The exterior is about 11' exposed Selkirk SuperPro 6" class A. The stove states minimum 15' chimney height from the floor that stove is installed on. My total height from the floor wound up about 16.5-17' or so in order to meet code. So going with an exposed SS chimney at slightly over mfg's min height, I would think that overdraft from the chimey is not the problem. One final piece of info is that I looked up the chimney from the outside tee and found hte entire inside is black. No large build-ups but looks completely sooty. The cleanout bottom cap had 1" of water sitting in it. Good/bad?

Cheers All. Best for a prosperous 2008.
 
On the subject of the ash dump plug, those things are a pain in the butt. My Englander has one. Cover the thing with ashes to stop the air leaking around it. They actually mis-made mine so it doesn't fit in the hole right but packing it under ashes seals it up. One of three "whoopses" on the stove.
 
How does the chimney cap look? Is it starting to plug? I would take it off and examine the interior of the chimney, it is possible you are burning a bit too cool and/or the wood may be not perfect. Try burning with a stove top temp of 500-600 for awhile. How dry and seasoned is the wood you are burning?

The flue length might not be quite long enough. The two 90 deg bends in the smoke path reduce the effective length of the chimney. Does smoke spill out of the door when it's opened?
 
How would any of those things be causing him not to be able to slow down the burn BG?
 
Right, I was addressing the second part of his question and went off on a tangent.

I'm still muddling over the first part and looking at the air paths into the stove. Hard to say where an air leak would have sprung up in such a short time. Any thoughts?
 
Sounds like you might need a stove pipe damper. That should slow things down alot. Also do the dollar bill test on the door gaskets, and "ditto" on the ash dump. Either pack it good with ashes or put a piece of sheet metal over it. I have the same stove and live in an area with an excessive draft situation and without the stove pipe damper, the primary damper does alomst nothing to slow it down except on milder days due to the decreased draft.
 
Myself I wouldn't worry about a little bit of soot in the pipe. Curing fires and start ups will do that. As to the water in the clean-out cap I would look again in another week and see if any more has collected or if there was just some condensation anomaly in the early burning of the stove such as moisture in the firebricks.
 
OK, doh, I had too many of houndog's threads open and mixed up this one confused with the old Fisher/moisture/creosote issue. Sorry for the confusion, my error. Back to a single thread at a time.
 
Thanks for the fast replies. BeGreen, I'll start first by saying that no there is no smoke spilling out the door when it is opened. As I start a fire, I can leave the door open without any issues. As far as snooping around to find the leaky spot, I think I may found my problem.

I was using a fan placed a few feet behind the stove to push warm air across the room (my blower is on order, by the way). As I came to realize, I was pushing a about 150cfm smack into the seconday burn draft inlet (if that is the correct way to reference it) and I think it was increasing the draft. WHen I removed it, the air damper seems to work better now. After damping it still takes a few minutes for the fire to start to "calm" but it does seem more responsive now. Does this sound like it cound have been the cause?

The chimney cap looks okay. It is starting to show the signs of use but does not appear to be pugged at all. Just sooty. I did "burn" a few damp logs - can the moisture in the logs collect in the cap?

-JD
 
JDfromRI said:
I was using a fan placed a few feet behind the stove to push warm air across the room (my blower is on order, by the way). As I came to realize, I was pushing a about 150cfm smack into the seconday burn draft inlet (if that is the correct way to reference it) and I think it was increasing the draft. WHen I removed it, the air damper seems to work better now. After damping it still takes a few minutes for the fire to start to "calm" but it does seem more responsive now. Does this sound like it cound have been the cause?

That will do it. Think turbocharger here. :coolgrin:
 
I think the nail has been hit on the head. It sounds like all is well. If you want to burn the stove a bit hotter (500-600) at least once a day, it will help keep things cleaner.
 
What about the 1" of water in the clean out bottom cap? Is there a rain cap on top of your chimney?
 
Live and learn, I guess. I had one of those "I'm a dope" moments. Note to self - no more fans behind the stove...

My chimney does have a cap on it. I'm also still curious as to how the water pooled in the bottom of the stack. It stands quite straight and all sections are securely locked. Can damp wood contain so much moisture that, for instance, if a log starts to smolder that the moisture does not completely evaporate and then condensates in the stack?

If not, I'll have to start looking for ways water can be entering. We have some rain here in RI over the past week.

Thanks for the help (again...and again).
 
Status
Not open for further replies.