Stove connection questions from a rookie

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Fister

New Member
Jan 11, 2012
3
Arizona
Im about to install a new Centurion wood stove as the one shown in the image attached here. Im installing it in an existing masonry fireplace/chimney. I have removed the bottom of the fireplace and would like to place the stove there, on the floor half inside the old fireplace, right underneath the chimney. I have a few questions regarding that:

1. Am I required to make a clean out door (for example with a T-piece at the end of the chimney pipe) for this type of stove? or can I simply run the chimney pipe directly (straight down) to the pipe connector on the stove?
The stove installer who is going to help me with this told me that it is okay to simply connect the stove pipe directly to the stove without having a clean out door. When the chimney pipe is getting cleaned out once a year the dust and debris will simply fall down into the stove and burn off next time you use it. Is this really true? To me it seems strange because the stove pipe going into the stove doesn't go directly into the burn chamber, its hidden behind the heat bricks. So if the debris falls down onto the bricks when the pipe is cleaned out, how can it burn off??
Any information on this is much appreciated.

2. Next question: can I run a flex liner directly to the stove connector (using an adapter), or is it better to use a rigid pipe at the stove end? and if a flex liner is okay to connect directly to the stove, can I paint this with black high heat paint?

3. Last question: I know that a flex liner should be insulated to prevent that the gasses inside gets cooled down and thereby forming more creosote. However why does a rigid pipe not need to be insulated, doesn’t that get cold?

Any help with all this is much appreciated.
 

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Welcome to the forum Fister. From a safety standpoint I am curious about the removal of the lower part of the fireplace. Is this a masonry fireplace?

You don't need a cleanout tee the liner can go directly to the stove with a short stainless connector collar between the liner and the flue collar. You can paint it with a good high temp paint, lightly sand first to give the paint a better grip. Regardless of whether the liner is rigid or flexible, insulation is a good idea. The code and principle apply to both. If it's a snug fit, they also make flex and rigid liner with the insulation between an inner and outer stainless jacket.
 
Thanks a lot for the response BeGreen. Yes this is a masonry fireplace. The bottom (which I removed most of) is surrounded with cinder blocks, mortar and stucco. See attached pics. I believe it should be safe.

What is the reason I don't need a cleanout tee? Don't I need to have the liner cleaned once in a while? or does the debris simple just fall down and burn off inside the stove somehow? Notice that the flue collar opening does not go right into the burn chamber of this stove, its hidden behind the fire bricks.

Do you have a link to the snug fit flex with insulation between the inner and outer jacket? I haven't seen this in any of the online stores.

Thanks a lot for your help.
 

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It's a bit more hassle, but the liner can be cleaned by pulling out the baffle before sweeping. This is somewhat tricky on stoves with baffle boards because they are somewhat fragile. It's pretty easy on stoves that use firebrick or have a stainless baffle like the Pacific Energy stoves.

Two flex liners that are preinsulated are Magnaflex's Insulflex and Duravent's Duraliner.
http://www.dynamitebuys.com/store/cart.php?m=product_list&c=66
http://www.northlineexpress.com/multiple_items.asp?cc=6LMagnaFlex
 
Just to add two cents - yes, the liner will need to be cleaned and probably more than once a year at first. Like BeGreen wrote, you can usually remove some parts inside the stove to access the flue connection. One thing about having the flue go into the stove is it can help contain the dust and ash that is dislodged when the flue is cleaned. I'd want to learn how to access the flue connector to see how difficult it is before making the decision about the cleanout. If it isn't too much trouble, then I'd connect without a cleanout.
 
Thanks a lot for your replies. I found out that I can remove two of the firebricks inside the stove so the ash that falls down when the flue is cleaned should be able to almost fall down into the burn chamber.
 
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