stove connector screw up, jus need a quick recommend

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sgcsalsero

Feeling the Heat
Mar 15, 2006
448
ClevelandRocks
So I think I screwed up my stove connector, long story short when I was pushing the insert back in I 'dented' it on the raised lip of the 6" insert hole. Once all put together, shone a light up and cussed when I saw a sliver of light, put some high temp. caulk on it, which prompted failed and got me in trouble with the Mrs. when the alarm went off. So I need to unfortunately pull this heavy bas$##% out again and start over. Liner is fully installed at top, I pulled out for a cleaning, inspect, and install of block plate.

So what is a top 'o the line stove connector, I wanna make sure this puppy is submarine tight when I get done with it, I guess I could bend the connector back to round but something tells me maybe there is a better way or product for this ?

Thanks a lot

p.s. I got the shakes with no fire goin for 3 days now, need my fix
 

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First problem is, you used hi-temp silicone where furnace cement should have been used. That hi-temp silicone will never last on the connector.
How bad is it dented? Might be able to re-round or straighten back out & set it in furnace cement, not silicone.
Silicone good for block off plate perimeter. Bad for stove outlet and where liner goes through block off plate. Clean that crap off real good or now the furnace cement won't adhere. And also clean it so it doesn't by chance flame up.
 
Thanks Hog (and Craig). . yeah I figured my draft pullin real good, but alas Mr. FirstAlert on 2nd flr. didn't agree.

I'll clean that crap off (newb mistake), take some solvent to and seal er up with furnace cement (hey Hog btw thanks for that urethane caulk tip, read that post last week, wish I read that 6 mths ago when I was replacing storms)

I thought maybe I had a substandard connector . . .
 
churchie said:
Thanks Hog (and Craig). . yeah I figured my draft pullin real good, but alas Mr. FirstAlert on 2nd flr. didn't agree.
Might have been the silicone burning off. Did you smell smoke, or silicone burning smell? Wondering why smoke detector on second floor went off before first floor (floor stove is on)? Is it a smoke detector, CO detector? Just want to rule out any potential worst problems. Is the stove new that maybe the paint was curing and possibly set it off?

I'll clean that crap off (newb mistake), take some solvent to and seal er up with furnace cement (hey Hog btw thanks for that urethane caulk tip, read that post last week, wish I read that 6 mths ago when I was replacing storms)
Make sure you clean the silicone off real well, and when ya think its good and clean, use some rubbing alcohol and clean the surface one more time with it. Set a nice bead of furnace cement in the inside lip edge of the outlet on the stove and then set the adapter down into it. If need be put another bead around the outside of that seam after the adapter is in place & secured. If you can get to the stove outlet from inside the stove, after all is in place and sealed, smooth out the cement that you put inside the stove outlet lip around the outlet and adapter edge seam. Be careful as that stainless will cut you quick & good . Take your time.
Urethane caulk is a god send in my book. Far superior to silicone in alot of uses, of course silicone does have its place. Don't use urethane caulk anywhere you want to get it back off easily. I know from first hand experience. ;)


I thought maybe I had a substandard connector . .
I think Newtown had the same connector we used on his liner, seemed like a quality connector to me. Forever flex maybe?.
 
Hogwildz said:
churchie said:
Thanks Hog (and Craig). . yeah I figured my draft pullin real good, but alas Mr. FirstAlert on 2nd flr. didn't agree.
Might have been the silicone burning off. Did you smell smoke, or silicone burning smell?

-yes, vinegar smell from silicone, no visible smoke b/c I left the insert surround panels off and just stared at the unit from 2' away, no obvious smokey smell, although its hard to tell, my spidey senses aren't that great yet with this stuff. see also comment below on haze.

Wondering why smoke detector on second floor went off before first floor (floor stove is on)? Is it a smoke detector, CO detector? Just want to rule out any potential worst problems. Is the stove new that maybe the paint was curing and possibly set it off?


-it is a combo smoke alarm on 2nd flr, stove is on 1st in front room and a lot of the heated air escapes up the staircase to 2nd flr. hallway where alarm is, the CO alarm is different, that didn't go off. My wife mentioned she thought the hallway was a little hazy when I fired up for the first time, in my first year (last year) I smoked out the house twice when I didn't reverse the chimney enough, so I know what a crap load of smoke (and grief) is like, nothing like that
-this is the 2nd year with insert, there may have been a fair amount of dust that got fried when I got it back together, that may have caused it, the alarm is -really- sensitive

I'll clean that crap off (newb mistake), take some solvent to and seal er up with furnace cement (hey Hog btw thanks for that urethane caulk tip, read that post last week, wish I read that 6 mths ago when I was replacing storms)
Make sure you clean the silicone off real well, and when ya think its good and clean, use some rubbing alcohol and clean the surface one more time with it. Set a nice bead of furnace cement in the inside lip edge of the outlet on the stove and then set the adapter down into it. If need be put another bead around the outside of that seam after the adapter is in place & secured. If you can get to the stove outlet from inside the stove, after all is in place and sealed, smooth out the cement that you put inside the stove outlet lip around the outlet and adapter edge seam. Be careful as that stainless will cut you quick & good . Take your time.
Urethane caulk is a god send in my book. Far superior to silicone in alot of uses, of course silicone does have its place. Don't use urethane caulk anywhere you want to get it back off easily. I know from first hand experience. ;)


-Thanks, great suggestions
-newbie question, What kind of furnace cement should I get, all I have noticed is 10 oz. tubes of refractory mortar at local stores (Lowes and fireplace shop), figure that is not acceptable substitute, I'll just ask I guess and make sure the label says 'furnace cement', I think Rutland makes this in tubes

I thought maybe I had a substandard connector . .
I think Newtown had the same connector we used on his liner, seemed like a quality connector to me. Forever flex maybe?.
-Bingo, Forever Flex . . is that stuff made in Scranton PA . . thought I read that
!Thanks!
 
churchie said:
Hogwildz said:
churchie said:
Thanks Hog (and Craig). . yeah I figured my draft pullin real good, but alas Mr. FirstAlert on 2nd flr. didn't agree.
Might have been the silicone burning off. Did you smell smoke, or silicone burning smell?

-yes, vinegar smell from silicone, no visible smoke b/c I left the insert surround panels off and just stared at the unit from 2' away, no obvious smokey smell, although its hard to tell, my spidey senses aren't that great yet with this stuff. see also comment below on haze.

Wondering why smoke detector on second floor went off before first floor (floor stove is on)? Is it a smoke detector, CO detector? Just want to rule out any potential worst problems. Is the stove new that maybe the paint was curing and possibly set it off?


-it is a combo smoke alarm on 2nd flr, stove is on 1st in front room and a lot of the heated air escapes up the staircase to 2nd flr. hallway where alarm is, the CO alarm is different, that didn't go off. My wife mentioned she thought the hallway was a little hazy when I fired up for the first time, in my first year (last year) I smoked out the house twice when I didn't reverse the chimney enough, so I know what a crap load of smoke (and grief) is like, nothing like that
-this is the 2nd year with insert, there may have been a fair amount of dust that got fried when I got it back together, that may have caused it, the alarm is -really- sensitive

I'll clean that crap off (newb mistake), take some solvent to and seal er up with furnace cement (hey Hog btw thanks for that urethane caulk tip, read that post last week, wish I read that 6 mths ago when I was replacing storms)
Make sure you clean the silicone off real well, and when ya think its good and clean, use some rubbing alcohol and clean the surface one more time with it. Set a nice bead of furnace cement in the inside lip edge of the outlet on the stove and then set the adapter down into it. If need be put another bead around the outside of that seam after the adapter is in place & secured. If you can get to the stove outlet from inside the stove, after all is in place and sealed, smooth out the cement that you put inside the stove outlet lip around the outlet and adapter edge seam. Be careful as that stainless will cut you quick & good . Take your time.
Urethane caulk is a god send in my book. Far superior to silicone in alot of uses, of course silicone does have its place. Don't use urethane caulk anywhere you want to get it back off easily. I know from first hand experience. ;)


-Thanks, great suggestions
-newbie question, What kind of furnace cement should I get, all I have noticed is 10 oz. tubes of refractory mortar at local stores (Lowes and fireplace shop), figure that is not acceptable substitute, I'll just ask I guess and make sure the label says 'furnace cement', I think Rutland makes this in tubes

I thought maybe I had a substandard connector . .
I think Newtown had the same connector we used on his liner, seemed like a quality connector to me. Forever flex maybe?.
-Bingo, Forever Flex . . is that stuff made in Scranton PA . . thought I read that
!Thanks!

Actually furnace cement or refractory is acceptable I believe. The stuff in tube or tub is fine. I used Rutland black.
Yes I believe Forever Flex ia made in Scranton, or in that area at least. Seemed like a quality product to me.
 
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