Stove pipe clearance issue

[Adonise]

Hello peeps.
installed a second wood stove in the addition. I have a clearance issue with the ultrablack FS and one of my beams.
i have 4-1/2 “ of clearance. Is there a nice shield I could put up there? I don’t really want to rip apart the beam wrap, patch drywall, move a collar tie etc........

this is getting inspected.
any help would be appreciated.
thanks.
andy

 

[begreen]

I'm surprised the installers allowed that. It requires 6" clearance from combustibles. Why wasn't the support located 2" closer to the wall? It looks like there was room.

It may not be an approved clearance reduction, but putting up a metal plate on the beam on 1" standoffs will protect the beam.

 

[webby3650]

You cannot technically reduce the clearance on double wall pipe.

 

[Ludlow]

I had the same problem. I hung the class A 12" below the beam and then connected to that with stove pipe.

 

[Woody Stover]

Why wasn't the support located 2" closer to the wall? It looks like there was room.

If the stone is in contact with combustibles, would that be legit? But yeah, I might put up a shield on the beam and call it a day. Or go with the Class A as Ludlow suggested. That's 2" clearance, right?

 

[begreen]

The combustible wall behind the stones is the nearest combustible on that side. Not sure how one would affix a section of class A below that support box after the fact.

 

[Adonise]

I'm surprised the installers allowed that. It requires 6" clearance from combustibles. Why wasn't the support located 2" closer to the wall? It looks like there was room.

It may not be an approved clearance reduction, but putting up a metal plate on the beam on 1" standoffs will protect the beam.

The chimney box is tight against the rafter. I can’t go closer to the stone wall.

 

[Adonise]

If the stone is in contact with combustibles, would that be legit? But yeah, I might put up a shield on the beam and call it a day. Or go with the Class A as Ludlow suggested. That's 2" clearance, right?

there is a type of black stove pipe with 2” clearance?

 

[kennyp2339]

Try to find a longer ceiling support box?

 

[Woody Stover]

there is a type of black stove pipe with 2” clearance?

I don't know, but you could paint the stainless Class A. begreen said he doesn't know how you would make the necessary transitions, though..

Try to find a longer ceiling support box?

Looks like that's a pretty long distance to cover, all the way to the bottom of the beam..

 

[webby3650]

Adding a longer ceiling box, or hanging the class a down past the box would require a total rebuild of the chimney and likely would mean switching to a brand that offers the proper components to do this. Double wall stove pipe has a 6” Clearance that you can’t reduce, no inspector will pass it. Is the chimney new also? What brand is it?

 

[Ludlow]

Supervent cathedral support box allows the class A to be suspended below the box up to 15'. Yes you would need to replace the current install.

 

[Adonise]

Adding a longer ceiling box, or hanging the class a down past the box would require a total rebuild of the chimney and likely would mean switching to a brand that offers the proper components to do this. Double wall stove pipe has a 6” Clearance that you can’t reduce, no inspector will pass it. Is the chimney new also? What brand is it?

Yes. It’s all new

 

[Adonise]

It will take me a day to get the 1-1/2 inches out of the beam by sliding it over. its the best move in the long run.

 

[Adonise]

ive been heating with wood for years. Never posted On a forum. Picked up a load of cherry and mulberry this morning.

 

[webby3650]

Yes. It’s all new

Man that sucks! Excel makes ceiling box extensions for this very purpose. Or it could have been roof supported.
Did the installers make you aware that it was too close to that beam or did you just discover the issue?

 

[Adonise]

They let me know. It was cut and head off the rafter(real mess) or modify my collar tie wrap (less messy)
I was hoping for another option.

 

[webby3650]

They let me know. It was cut and head off the rafter(real mess) or modify my collar tie wrap (less messy)
I was hoping for another option.

At least you knew about it.

 

[begreen]

there is a type of black stove pipe with 2” clearance?

He was referring to class A chimney pipe. There were better ways to design this system, but they revolve around using a different chimney support box. One option would have been to use a deep cathedral ceiling support box. This would have dropped the stovepipe connection to below the beam. Another option would have been to use a roof support for the chimney pipe that allows the chimney to drop into the room for X distance in order to drop the transition from chimney to stove pipe below the beam.

If you paid for this and didn't know there are better solutions, the installer messed up by installing a non-code compliant system. If you chose the current solution, then the ball is in your court.

 

[ckr74]

It will take me a day to get the 1-1/2 inches out of the beam by sliding it over. its the best move in the long run.

If you move the beam, won't it look wrong because of the spacing between them?

 

[Adonise]

Only you, me, and the other couple of thousand people that look at this thread will know. Instead of 32 on center, this one will be 30-1/2.

if you ever stop by you can point it out and bust my chops.

 

[Adonise]

He was referring to class A chimney pipe. There were better ways to design this system, but they revolve around using a different chimney support box. One option would have been to use a deep cathedral ceiling support box. This would have dropped the stovepipe connection to below the beam. Another option would have been to use a roof support for the chimney pipe that allows the chimney to drop into the room for X distance in order to drop the transition from chimney to stove pipe below the beam.

If you paid for this and didn't know there are better solutions, the installer messed up by installing a non-code compliant system. If you chose the current solution, then the ball is in your court.

the guy told me he could extend the square box down to 6 or 12 inches below the beam but I didn’t know if I would like the end result.

 

[begreen]

the guy told me he could extend the square box down to 6 or 12 inches below the beam but I didn’t know if I would like the end result.

Seems like a much easier option than moving the beam. After a few weeks I don't think you'd notice the difference. The focal point is the stove and wall, not what is happening up behind a beam.

 

[Nigel459]

How wide is the beam? Looks plenty wide (6”+?) to remove 1.5” at one single point with a radius to honour the clearance, then add a non-combustible something on the bottom of the beam to hide the adjustment... not exactly easy but easier than moving the beam...
Edit: looks like a tie actually, likely in tension so “should” be structurally aok... best to have an pro confirm of course!

 

[Adonise]

If you move the beam, won't it look wrong because of the spacing between them?

How wide is the beam? Looks plenty wide (6”+?) to remove 1.5” at one single point with a radius to honour the clearance, then add a non-combustible something on the bottom of the beam to hide the adjustment... not exactly easy but easier than moving the beam...
Edit: looks like a tie actually, likely in tension so “should” be structurally aok... best to have an pro confirm of course!

they are wrapped non essential collar ties. The ridge is a doubled up and bolted double 1-3/4x20“ lvl with posts to the foundation on both ends. I built the whole thing from the footings up. (I’m a carpenter) I only subbed out the stove install and the gutters. I can remove the beam wrap, remove one of the doubled up collar ties (my sealed drawings only show 1 anyway), pack out the remaining collar tie flush with the side of the rafter, re wrap with the mitered pine, then patch up the 2 spots on each end of the beam where I pulled out the tie. I will then have the look I am after and be code compliant.

I really am thinking about adding that extension and reworking the pipe though. Seems pretty simple. would I have to remove the chimney that goes through the roof to put on the extension?