Stove pipe clearances

[cableman]

Hello, new here but been burning wood for 13 years or so. Got rid of an old bullard last year and bought a hearthstone shelburne!
Re-doing the hearth pad and walls so the new stove can sit back farther.
So now comes moving the stove pipe! It goes through the 1st story roof and is prolly 2-3' off the 2nd story exterior wall. How hight should the top of this pipe be above the 2nd roof?
Can the double wall ht pipe go right through the roof and rest in place on the ceiling support?
This is what i have and how it was done from previous owner.
I have 5 lengths of the pipe which sat about 1-1/2 pipes above the mount in the picture.
http://s1135.photobucket.com/user/cjec/media/Wood stove/image_zpsb8766546.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

http://s1135.photobucket.com/user/cjec/media/Wood stove/image_zpsb8e86c27.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3

http://s1135.photobucket.com/user/cjec/media/Wood stove/image_zps4b337556.jpg.html?sort=3&o=5

 

[begreen]

Greetings. The top of the pipe needs to be 2 ft above the nearest roofline within 10 ft.



In order to reduce the clearances to combustibles, there needs to be NFPA 211 approved wall shielding. What is the plan here to achieve this reduction?

 

[cableman]

Ok so 2' higher at 10' away from 2nd story roof. I built the 2" bluestone hearth pad to specs using rear heatshield and double wall pipe. It will sit 7" from corner to wall with 16" from front of loading door to end of hearth. Cultured flagstone will go on the back walls once the ceiling and pipe are done! So much more room then with the 3'x30" bullard stove! I gotta post a pic of that one, but heres the new one getting fitted in place.

http://s1135.photobucket.com/user/cjec/media/Wood stove/image_zps4d4b61e8.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

Here it is on the old hearth pad way out from the wall
http://s1135.photobucket.com/user/cjec/media/Wood stove/image_zps70d2767f.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2

 

[begreen]

I don't have the Shelburne manual right now, but I thought it requires an NFPA 211 wall shield for reducing clearances.

 

[cableman]

Im only reducing it to the manufactors min clearance to combustible wall with rear heat shield and double wall pipe. The old stove was so big when i put this one in place it was a good 2' off wall! I actually made it 7" from corners to the dura rock. Pad is 50"x50" 3' accross the flat front part.
Is the ss dble wall insulated pipe ok to go through the roof and sit on the ceiling support? Where the pipe will be going through i have roughly a foot or two from ceiling to roof.

 

[begreen]

Got it. You are ok for a corner install. I was thinking the side wall clearance.

The ceiling support should support the weight, but for sure you will want to brace the pipe very well. That tall pipe will have a lot of leverage. This may require a roof brace at the 5 foot level where the pipe exits the roof and another off the eave of the upper roof.

 

[cableman]

I made the roof braket in the pic which attached just below the top section, was pretty strong with almost no movement. Held up to hurricane sandy! Im gonna gave to move and extend it or just go with the standard brace.
Thanks for the info, ill post pics of it all done!

 

[cableman]

Ok I tried to measure from where the old pipe bracket held the pipe and at 10' away with my tape measure bending all over the place! I think I only have 16" above it. This is old hart and cooley pipe 8"x32' lengths which has prolly changed and cant get anymore! So since my stove has a 6" output and I had to mod the Selkirk metalbest 6 to 8 adaptor to fit, I guess its best I get 5 new sections of ss Selkirk double wall and what ever else is needed? Am I better off using 6" pipe all the way up?

 

[begreen]

The pipe will need a support bracket for every 5 ft above the roof penetration. It sounds like you will need a roof brace and then another perhaps if the total exterior chimney height is over 10ft. 6" all the way is preferred.

 

[cableman]

Does the interior double wall pipe just attach to exterior chimney pipe at the ceiling support or is there an adaptor in between them also?

 

[cableman]

Should i be putting something behind the durarock like a reflective foil or something? I just attached it to the 2x4,s and the stove is at the manufactures clearances.

 

[begreen]

If you are at or exceeding the clearances listed in the manual for the type of connector being used, then there is no need additional protection (like foil). Here is a convenient measuring guide: (broken link removed to http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/chsshel.htm)

The interior connector pipe is attached with an adapter to the ceiling support box. Did you change out the Hart and Cooley for a Selkirk support? Follow the instructions in the Selkirk install manual for parts and installation. The connecting parts will depend on which type of Selkirk piping you have chosen. http://www.selkirkcorp.com/products/chimney.aspx

 

[cableman]

Thanks again begreen. I was just thinking i could add more protection while im at this stage! I sold the hartandcooley pipe and bought the lowes supervent 6" pipe and all the needed stuff. Nice price at lowes too!
I insulated the exterior wall with unfaced batts, hope it doesnt condensate but the durarock should handle moisture if it does. Its getting close to burn season i hope i get it done soon!

 

[cableman]

Just opened the box to the roof support. Do i need to purchase a finish ring for where the chimney/adaptor attaches to the double wall stove pipe?
Supervent chimney support and pipe from lowes.

 

[begreen]

You do need the stove pipe adapter, but the finishing ring might be optional.

 

[cableman]

Lining up the pipe with the support box is a pain! Ready to cut the hole, add a second layer of dow insulation board and sheet rock this thing! Would of been easier if i left this ceiling flat but i thought it would look cool vaulted!

This is it all framed out and ready to cut the roof!
Wish my wife could finish while im at work lol

 

[cableman]

Hard to tell but this is the small section of ceiling i vaulted. I started this project last week in aug by ripping the old brick out and installing a sliding glass door next to the hearth! Every thing turns into a long project for me lol

 

[cableman]

So the class a chimney is gonna rest on the support via brace, is there any insulation i can stuff up in the box? Id have to imagine it doesnt seal it self and this could be a drafty spot!

 

[cableman]

Anyone? Can i stuff some insulation in the support? Maybe roxul? Just a small amount so it dont leak cold air!

 

[skinanbones]

all the manufacters that i know of do not want anything in that support box at all. I don't think you would see any air leakage through it anyways once the weight of the chimney is in it and the flashing is sealed.

 

[Holiday]

If anything you could seal the bottom crack with silicone where the adapter comes through.

 

[cableman]

Ok, i sealed the box with high temp silicone where ever i saw light which was the whole bottom seal and one side going up. The brace that attaches to the chimney pipe has about a 1/2" gap which ill seal also! I built this area pretty much draft tight! Just remember my old one being pretty drafty when not burning!

Ready for some spackle, permanent chimney install and cultured stone!
I know the green table cloths gotta go lol

 

[cableman]

The one inch section of class a chimney that sticks threw the support, would it be possible to use aluminum house capping to make a trim ring to cover the chrome?