Stove pipe dilema

[Mattsradt]

Renting a home with a wood stove. Apparently the stove pipe was installed upside down. Crimped edges were facing up. Pipe rotted at base at stove opening. I bought two replacment pipes but due to the interior pipe not having a male end i cannot pipes to stove. One pic is before I took it apart.I need to fit two pieces in between the stove opening.and the part that comes down from ceiling. How?

 

[armanidog]

Good instructions.

 

[MongoMongoson]

For double wall pipe, people use one length of adjustable pipe somewhere. That is how you get the proper length and can install/remove the pipe without bending, contortions, or scooting the stove around on the floor.

I am glad you are resolving the issue. Your Pic is a great example of what happens when stove pipe is installed upside down.

Do you have a chimney cap?

 

[Mattsradt]

I believe so. Answer me this. The piece that I took of pic of that is coming out of ceiling with the ring around it, is that a pipe or is it a pipe slip increaser? If so what do I do with it.

 

[MongoMongoson]

Does that top piece of stove pipe have a female end on both sides? If so, you can either replace it or use a stove pipe crimping tool to crimp the downward facing end.

 

[Mattsradt]

The piece in the pic coming from cieling is female. It does not come out. It looks like the black pipe goes into attic and connects right into silver pipe. No box or anything. Black straight into silver then out threw roof.

 

[MongoMongoson]

I don't recognize the parts you have at the ceiling, but others might be able to help with make/model of those parts and what you can do with them.

What does it look like looking up your chimney? What is above the ceiling, an attic? Can you get up there?

I ask because the fact that someone installed the stove pipe upside down is concerning. If they did the rest of the installation as well, how do you know it is safe?

The best thing to do is get a pro in there to inspect before you burn. If that is not an option, you should do it yourself, take lots of pictures, share them here.

 

[Mattsradt]

This is all you see when up in attic. Im thinking that silver pipe wilhich is the exterior system is 8 in diameter while the interior was 6 in.

 

[all night moe]

This is all you see when up in attic. Im thinking that silver pipe wilhich is the exterior system is 8 in diameter while the interior was 6 in.

View attachment 285947

The pipe in the attic is a Class A insulated pipe. Outside dia is 7'' which still retains the 6'' pipe in its interior.

 

[begreen]

What is happening in the attic and through the roof is wrong and dangerous. Chimney pipe must have 2" clearance from everything expect metal or non-combustibles. There must be an attic insulation shield to keep that insulation 2" away from the chimney pipe. It needs that clearance right up through the roof. Be careful. It would be good to know how old that insulation is. It looks like vermiculite which is ok if done in the last 20 yrs then it's likely safe. If done in the early 90s or before then it may contain asbestos.

 

[begreen]

The pipe in the attic is a Class A insulated pipe. Outside dia is 7'' which still retains the 6'' pipe in its interior.

Outside diameter is 8" typically unless it's triple wall.

 

[Mattsradt]

The pipe in the attic is a Class A insulated pipe. Outside dia is 7'' which still retains the 6'' pipe in its interior.

Ok. Then what do I do with this piece. What is it. I want to connect into it.

 

[MongoMongoson]

Thanks for taking that picture. It indicates you have some bigger problems. That silver pipe should be a class A insulated chimney pipe and must be 2" away from any combustibles. It looks like it is touching wood.

How is your landlord? This is something they should fix for you. The danger is that they might fix the problem by pulling the stove from the house.

But, don't burn with how the chimney is set up now. That is a fire waiting to happen.

 

[MongoMongoson]

Ok. Then what do I do with this piece. What is it. I want to connect into it.

View attachment 285948

Please do not connect into it until the chimney problem is resolved.

That will be the time to get the stove pipe situation straightened out as well.

 

[begreen]

Ok. Then what do I do with this piece. What is it. I want to connect into it.

View attachment 285948

The easiest solution would be to buy or borrow a crimper and crimp the bottom edge of the pipe. But note the previous caveats that I posted.

 

[Mattsradt]

The easiest solution would be to buy or borrow a crimper and crimp the bottom edge of the pipe. But note the previous caveats that I posted.

I see on your profile that you live South puget sound. I live in kent. Do you know any pros in the area?

 

[Mattsradt]

Renting a home with a wood stove. Apparently the stove pipe was installed upside down. Crimped edges were facing up. Pipe rotted at base at stove opening. I bought two replacment pipes but due to the interior pipe not having a male end i cannot pipes to stove. One pic is before I took it apart.I need to fit two pieces in between the stove opening.and the part that comes down from ceiling. How? View attachment 285930 View attachment 285931

Figured it out with the help of forum member. When I took the rusted pieces off the single wall pipe connecting to the drip pipe shown in pick was inserted male up INTO drip pipe(installer fail). The single wall pipe slides OVER the drip pipe. This allows it to slid up and down, thus allowing me to insert another pipe into stove flange and then slide pipe downward connecting it all.

 

[BigJ273]

Figured it out with the help of forum member. When I took the rusted pieces off the single wall pipe connecting to the drip pipe shown in pick was inserted male up INTO drip pipe(installer fail). The single wall pipe slides OVER the drip pipe. This allows it to slid up and down, thus allowing me to insert another pipe into stove flange and then slide pipe downward connecting it all.

I think you’re still missing the major safety points a few pointed out. It ain’t gonna much matter much if the house burns down, which is possible based on that pipe situation in the attic.

 

[Mattsradt]

I think you’re still missing the major safety points a few pointed out. It ain’t gonna much matter much if the house burns down, which is possible based on that pipe situation in the attic.

One problem at a time. The only issue is that 1 foot of pipe in attic which can be solved with fire proofing.

 

[begreen]

The easiest solution would be to buy or borrow a crimper and crimp the bottom edge of the pipe. But note the previous caveats that I posted.

I was in error here and misidentified the stove pipe brand. It was correctly identified in the other thread.

 

[Mattsradt]

I was in error here and misidentified the stove pipe brand. It was correctly identified in the other thread.

No problem. No matter what the piece is when I took it apart the male end was inside. Thus I figured tbat was the way it was supposed to go until another user said it goes on the outside. Kinda one of the duhhhh moments that caused my wife to look at me and say... Seriously.

 

[Highbeam]

No problem. No matter what the piece is when I took it apart the male end was inside. Thus I figured tbat was the way it was supposed to go until another user said it goes on the outside. Kinda one of the duhhhh moments that caused my wife to look at me and say... Seriously.

I have the same tailpiece/slip joint setup in my shop. That sorts out the bottom black pipe situation but these fellas are now more concerned about what they see in the attic.

It's hard to tell for sure but that black box you see in the stove room is supposed to be really tall and extend up into the attic to prevent that blown in cellulose from making contact with your silver class A pipe, it's supposed to be 2" away. If you can verify that you have no insulation touching the silver class A pipe then that is a big deal. It is okay if insulation is right up to the top of that black metal box just not inside of it. INsulation blower inners get really lazy and I've had to vacuum out the extra insulation that got blown into the metal box alongside the silver pipe.

Next, where the shiny silver pipe goes through the roof deck you need a hole 2" bigger all around than the silver pipe.

I don't like the big dent in the shiny silver pipe either but it's a rental!

 

[begreen]

I see on your profile that you live South puget sound. I live in kent. Do you know any pros in the area?

I don't know if they service Kent, but know some folks are using Midtown Chimney out of Tacoma. I've also heard that folks have been pleased with the work by Chris at Absolute Chimney in Tacoma, 253 905 4117. Hope that helps.

 

[Mattsradt]

I have the same tailpiece/slip joint setup in my shop. That sorts out the bottom black pipe situation but these fellas are now more concerned about what they see in the attic.

It's hard to tell for sure but that black box you see in the stove room is supposed to be really tall and extend up into the attic to prevent that blown in cellulose from making contact with your silver class A pipe, it's supposed to be 2" away. If you can verify that you have no insulation touching the silver class A pipe then that is a big deal. It is okay if insulation is right up to the top of that black metal box just not inside of it. INsulation blower inners get really lazy and I've had to vacuum out the extra insulation that got blown into the metal box alongside the silver pipe.

Next, where the shiny silver pipe goes through the roof deck you need a hole 2" bigger all around than the silver pipe.

I don't like the big dent in the shiny silver pipe either but it's a rental!

Im sure the cellulois stuff is touching but only a small amount, probably due to wind in attic moving it around. Ill try to check today and vacuum it out if it is in that box. As far as the silver pipe its only about a 12 inch visible in attic. The whole pipe system is installed on very edge of roof. Here is a pic of the outside.

 

[begreen]

Im sure the cellulois stuff is touching but only a small amount, probably due to wind in attic moving it around. Ill try to check today and vacuum it out if it is in that box.

It needs an attic insulation shield. This should have been installed when the chimney went in.

Selkirk 206490 Attic Insulation Shield, 6

Used wherever a ceiling support, finish support, firestop or joist shield is installed below an open attic. Required to guard against the hazard of blown-in or blanket insulation filling any framed opening or contacting the chimney and possible storage of combustibles against the chimney...

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