Stove pipe/offset

[LIBurn1784]

Hey all. I finished my hearth, got the stove in place and I'm trying to figure out where the stove pipe/chimney will be run. It will be 6" pipe, and where it comes thru the ceiling now, the center of that pipe is 1.5" from a joist. So my options are to move the stove (very little wiggle room here because of clearance to combustibles), offset the stove pipe using elbows (girlfriend isn't thrilled about this one for aesthetic purposes, but I think this is my best bet), or cut/sister up joists in the attic.

Ideally the pipe should come thru the ceiling directly between the joists to maintain clearance in the attic space. So I'd have to move the centerline of the pipe 5.5". Any suggestions on combinations of elbow/pipe lengths to accomplish this with as little draft issues as possible? Anything I'm overlooking? Amy insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

[begreen]

I like a clean straight drop without altering the rafters. An offset in the room is not that big a deal and will soon be forgotten. We have one because our support box was set up for a different stove. No big deal.

 

[nate379]

I was lucky that when we went to put the pipe in after I had placed my stove that it was right in the middle of my trusses. But had it not have, I would have just used an offset.

 

[LIBurn1784]

To add to my question...can you use offsets coming right out of the stove? Or going right into the ceiling support? Or do they need to be between two sections of pipe?

The only offset chart I can find is for durablack pipe. Can anyone direct me to other manufacturers charts for single wall pipe?

 

[Shane]

Offset at the support box would be better. The more vertical rise you have before an offset the better.

 

[LIBurn1784]

I saw someone ask this question on durablack website and they said u can't connect the elbows to the support box. So I'll have to buy some additional lengths to make it work but I think I have it figured out.

 

[Benchwrench]

I had the same issue when I did my woodstove install some years ago. Leaving the rafters alone I either had to bring out the stove into the room more than I wanted or scoot it back closer to the drywall more than the manufacturer (Quadrafire) listed UNLESS I installed a deflector which enabled the stove to be mounted closer to a combustible.
The stove pipe was slightly canted by about an inch or two but you weren't able to see it from the front. It served well for many years and I never had a problem with the wall being too warm. The stove top adapter plate solved my clearance needs.

 

[Shane]

You do have to have a connector ring for double wall and a slip joint for single wall. The higher in the system you can get the off set the better though.

 

[mhrischuk]

I went through the same quandary. I ended up cutting a joist and rafter. I preferred the straight up. Only have to do it once. It's all buttoned up and forever forgotten.

 

[begreen]

Will the Equinox be vented straight up? It looked like the support box was quite off-center on the wall space and hearth.

 

[rdust]

Will the Equinox be vented straight up? It looked like the support box was quite off-center on the wall space and hearth.

I'm thinking the stove might be installed without it's back towards the wall?

 

[mhrischuk]

I was lucky that when we went to put the pipe in after I had placed my stove that it was right in the middle of my trusses. But had it not have, I would have just used an offset.

As long as you knew the chimney would be able to go up through there give or take. Imagine installing the stove only to discover later there is a structural issue like with me where the flashing ends up half in a roof valley. Best advice from this forum I got was to get the chimney in first then put the stove under it.

I’m thinking the stove might be installed without it’s back towards the wall?

No

A roof valley forced me to shift the chimney to the right but it actually worked out. No way around it. It's a 10" shift to the right off center. Also the shift didn't put me anywhere close to being between two joists. The Equinox has a large side door. I took advantage of the fact that the side door requires extended hearth protection on the left side so I shifted the stove to the right on a large hearth centered between the sliding doors. The extra area on the hearth to the left will give me a place for tools, ash bucket... whatever.

The red line closer to the valley is where a centered chimney would have been. The flashing would have gone way into the valley. The longer red line is where I put it.
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This layout from the manual is minimum hearth requirements. It's a little misleading at first glance as you don't have to have the stove in the right corner but to have the stove centered you would have to make the pad larger on the right side the same as the left. It would have to be 63" wide to have the stove centered.

I made the hearth 80" wide so if it just doesn't look right I can still move the stove and put a joggle in the stove pipe. I went with function over form, working with what I had. I also made the chimney higher than the minimum... doesn't look that great sticking way up there but I wanted to ensure optimum draft. So I ended up with the optimum install. A straight up chimney. There are things you can do with decorating that takes advantage of asymmetry and gives it a "meant to be" look.