Stove pipe problem

[runderwo]

So, after getting our liner installed, I realized I screwed up with the measurements of the stove. I didn't take into account that a 90 degree elbow coming out of the top of a stove ends up adding so much height. Basically, the problem is that I would have to use two 90 degree elbows and then about 12 inches of straight stove pipe to get my stove connected to the tee in the fireplace, all running at a slight downward slope with the two elbows making a "hump" coming out of the top-venting stove. On the hearth.com installation page it says that stovepipe must run upward with at least 1/4" lift per foot of pipe. Will this work or do I need to rethink the whole thing? I think if I seal the sections of pipe with furnace cement, the creosote should flow into the tee cleanout. I just don't know what this mess will do to my draft.

 

[begreen]

That sounds like the ingredients for a very smoky installation. Top exit flues often don't work in fireplaces, unless the opening is quite tall. Bummer. A pause and rethink sounds like a good plan.

But perhaps all is not lost. Can the fireplace flue be tapped in higher, above the opening? Maybe post a picture of the setup?

 

[runderwo]

I'll try to get a picture in later. Unfortunately, to get the tee any higher, I'd have to knock out bricks, which is what I wanted to avoid all along by going through the fireplace. I already had to cut the damper and remove bricks from the smoke shelf, so it's useless as a fireplace now anyway. So maybe knocking out bricks and piping it into the chimney a little higher isn't such a bad option now.

 

[begreen]

No fun, but it may be solvable. The other alternative might be if the stove is returnable for a rear-exit model.

What stove is this and what is the current lintel height for the fireplace?

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Can you use a 45 or an adjustable elbow to give you a better slope for flue gases?

Matt

 

[runderwo]

Ok, here's what I have. You can see how my dumb @$$ was envisioning an elbow with its "crook" level with the top of the stove. It would have worked great in that case. Instead, there is a large offset, which screws the whole thing up. If I could find some kind of elbow that would immediately make a 90 as soon as it exits the top of the stove, my day wouldn't be ruined.

 

[Shari]

How about this item:

available here (broken link removed to http://www.chimneylinerdepot.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=64)

or here (broken link removed to http://www.hartshearth.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=3660&idcategory=0)

Shari

 

[runderwo]

Hmm, I think I still have the same problem right, if I use that to offset downward then the draft will get screwed up right?

 

[begreen]

Oh boy. Is that an old Orley? Maybe have a welding shop cut down the pedestal a few inches?

 

[runderwo]

It sure is an Orley, Never been used, it was in the corner of an old lady's garage. Is that a bad thing?

Actually, my fiancee suggested that same idea, get the stove cut down. I was afraid that it would be unbalanced or too weak to hold the stove up. Is this something people do sometimes? If so, she will be glad to know that she is smarter than me.

 

[begreen]

It would take some effort, but I think a good shop could handle it. However, it may cost as much or more than the stove cost. My concern would be that the unit is precisely plumb after the weld.

I've never run one, though that would be fun. The Orley's were popular out here and put out a fair amount of heat. Much better than an open fireplace, but not too clean burning compared to a modern stove.

 

[drumbum]

I have an Orley in the basement/downstairs. Burned one in the 80's. Burned last year upstairs and heated great. The model I have is the Baby Jane 20" (18"log) rated at 50,00- 70,000 btu's, made from high carbon steel and a barrel design makes it STRONG. Easy to light, Burns hot and clean, except when damping down for the night. Regular 9 hour burns over night with plenty of coals burning locust. Often see secondary burn when running hot (750). With the dual air control it's fun to play with the fire, but very easy to over-fire, ( get a non contact thermometer from HF ). Only a couple of times did it drop down to 65 inside overnight when it was -8 out heating 1400 sq. ft. but that's the reason we have a NC 30 on the main floor now. Can't wait to get mine hooked back up downstairs. Guests were always impressed with heat output from the small stove( 2.3 cu. ft.) and it's unique design. Name comes from the designer/manufacturer Orley B. Milligan. My stove is an `83 model. I would shorten the pedestal myself. Good luck with the install and be safe.

 

[ROBERT F]

Is the stove staying where its at? If so, what is underneath it currently?

 

[runderwo]

After a long winter full of other problems last year, I finally got back around to solving this problem. I took a sawzall and angle grinder and cut out 8.5 inches of height from the pedestal, being careful to cut the shape needed for the "barrel" to cleanly sit within it. Then I ground off the paint around the attachment area, set it up so it was square, and welded it with a flux wire welder filling in gaps where necessary with cuttings from the discarded piece, and coated with rustoleum. Tada! I'm sitting in front of it right now. I just need to attach the top of the liner to the chimney with masonry screws and it's all done. Thanks for your help everyone.

It has 1 meter ceramic tiles underneath it and original fireplace brick behind it.

 

[firefighterjake]

Oh boy. Is that an old Orley? Maybe have a welding shop cut down the pedestal a few inches?

And here I was thinking someone had connected stove pipe to their BBQ grill.