Hello, I just purchased a timberline stove, it has a 8" pipe opening. I cannot find a pipe that will fit, all the reducers I've tried are the same exact size. Nothing fits. Any ideas why???
Stove pipe
- Thread starter Buckbuster
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Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
You know if your using single wall pipe the crimped end of the pipe goes on the inside of the stove connector? Also what begreen said, why a reducer?
The crimped end won't fit into it and the straight end won't fit over, reduced because the chimney is 6" have no choice. The chimney is about 16' tall if I reduce at the back of the stove I should have ample draft. I hope
This stove is designed for 8" pipe. It usually is not a good idea to choke down a stove.
Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
The information you receive even though it may not be what you want to hear or what you asked about is what you really should try to understand. There can be too many dangers involved with using a wood burning appliance incorrectly. Sorry we couldn't help you.
I appreciate the concerns, I'm no virgin to wood stoves, been using them for 40+ years. I was hoping someone had some insight as to why on this timberline stove no 8" fits I don't know if there was a change to pipe size,or if there is a special adapter, ( putting the reducer out of mind) measurement OD is 8 1/8. I'D is 7 7/8
Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
How about these (broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/8-dvl-adapter-section-no-damper-8dvl-ad-6769.html)
or (broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/8-dvl-adapter-damper-section-8dvl-adwd-6768.html)
or (broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/8-dvl-adapter-damper-section-8dvl-adwd-6768.html)
Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
If you use those you'll need a double wall to single adapter unless you run double wall the rest of the way.
Well in that case i am sure that stove will work perfectly on a 6" chimney
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
So the crimped end won't fit as in too big or too small (loose)? If it is a little too big, just get a crimping tool (some of the big box and hardware stores carry 'em <$20) or go to a stove shop, I'm sure they would crimp it down a bit tighter for you. If it is too small, you can lay the pipe on a solid surface and carefully hammer a bit of the crimp out (evenly, the whole way around) with a small ballpeen hammer to expand things back out. If there is an actual adapter, I have no idea.
I agree with the above advise though, putting a stove with 8" flue connection on a 6" chimney will likely result in you not being happy with the way it works
I agree with the above advise though, putting a stove with 8" flue connection on a 6" chimney will likely result in you not being happy with the way it works
The crimped end is exactly the same size ( to big) I realize the effects of the smaller pipe, I know it won't work perfect, it's going in a shop, so I'm not worried about perfect. Thanks
Gentlemen first let me say thank you. But let me explain this problem, this stove is in a work shop. The chimney/ flu pipe is a 8" Well casing that sets about 1" off the wall with a welded steel support to hold it in place. I cannot take this thing out it's too heavy, and since I'm out on workmans comp I can't afford a new flu so I'm going to run a pipe inside of this existing pipe I could go to a 7" but that's max. I don't want a steel well casing getting that hot that close to a wall steel don't cool off real fast. That's why I'm doing this the way I'm doing it. I know it won't work perfect but that is not really a concern.
But the pipe fitment is driving me nuts, I've never run into this problem. As I've said this is a shop with all kinds of drafts around the doors. Also I cannot find any info on a timberline stove for gaskets on the doors... Should there be?? I'm afraid this thing is going to just eat wood as fast as I can fill it.
But the pipe fitment is driving me nuts, I've never run into this problem. As I've said this is a shop with all kinds of drafts around the doors. Also I cannot find any info on a timberline stove for gaskets on the doors... Should there be?? I'm afraid this thing is going to just eat wood as fast as I can fill it.
Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
No codes here. This shop was built by hillbillies 20+ years ago no codes then either. I got the problem resolved. I recrimped the pipe installed insulated fire break sheeting behind then test fired. It has one he'l of a draw to it and no problems.
Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
Those codes are national codes. They pertain to everyone. If you have insurance and that place burns down good luck getting the insurance company to pay.
It's more apt to fall down then burn down, I needed info on pipe fit to the back of the stove, I got no problems about insurance on a scrap metal shed. I really didn't need anything other than that. Kinda makes me see why this ole world is screwed up. Everyone worried about something other than the problem at hand. I'm out. But thanks to the guy that have me ideas on the pipe fit.....
Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
Good job @brenndatomu you helped fix the guys problem, but I can't say he learned anything. Can't say we didn't try @begreen @Buckbuster still would like to see a picture of your setup.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Well casing chimneys are pretty common for shops/garages around here. I don't have any pics but I can try to decribe the setup if ya want.
You take a random piece of well casing, stand it up on end and bury it in the ground 5-6, maybe 7 feet deep, in concrete if ya gonna get fancy. Cut a hole through the wall (often times metal building like Bucks) torch a hole in the side of the casing at the proper spot, slide another piece of casing out through the wall and weld 'er fast. They aren't pretty, and sometimes hard to start from cold, but they do work as long as you have a fair amount of waste heat coming from the burner...oh, and the price is right. My dad has one on his shop that he used to heat with a waste oil furnace, it worked fine but is un-used now since they don't heat that building anymore. His is somewhere 18-24" out from the wall...
You take a random piece of well casing, stand it up on end and bury it in the ground 5-6, maybe 7 feet deep, in concrete if ya gonna get fancy. Cut a hole through the wall (often times metal building like Bucks) torch a hole in the side of the casing at the proper spot, slide another piece of casing out through the wall and weld 'er fast. They aren't pretty, and sometimes hard to start from cold, but they do work as long as you have a fair amount of waste heat coming from the burner...oh, and the price is right. My dad has one on his shop that he used to heat with a waste oil furnace, it worked fine but is un-used now since they don't heat that building anymore. His is somewhere 18-24" out from the wall...
I am sorry but if you come here asking for advice And we see other serious issues we are going to point them out. What you are doing is extremely dangerous and against so many codes and regulations that we cannot ignore it in good conscience. To me that is what is good about this world. We are trying to help you whether you want it or not because you could easily kill yourself
They are here as well but they are usually much more than 1" from a combustible wall.
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