Stupid Subaru commercial

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Ashful said:
I always thought the “Rust Belt” referred to now-defunct heavy manufacturing areas, like my home town. Steel was king here, when I was a kid, Bethlehem Steel.

Have I had it wrong, all these decades?
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No, I guess I have it wrong. But I like my definition of rust belt better.
 
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begreen said:
Not much road salt used west of the Cascades in spite of our latitude being the same as Maine. Not much snow falls here. They do sand steep hills locally. Up in the passes they do use deicer.
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Once you get out of the city there is a lot of salt used in western Washington. Mag chloride, calcium chloride are both salt water or brine, then the local boys also dump tons of plain old rock salt on my street. It’s so bad that chrome wheels are peeling and fender well rust is common now. All in the name of safety and a cya mentality.

I’m sure it’s worse in the rust belt but to get a nonsalt car you really need to look south like Arizona!
 
King County must be cheap. We are way out of the city, but they only sand the main roads and only when they absolutely must.
 
begreen said:
King County must be cheap. We are way out of the city, but they only sand the main roads and only when they absolutely must.
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We don't even get sand anymore. Straight to rock salt or brine. I'm out of the city limits in east Pierce.

My 4" aluminized steel exhaust pipe rusted a hole in it this year. That's never happened before. The rest of the rust belt probably is familiar with replacing exhaust systems. I would hate to think that I need to monitor my brake lines too!
 
I’ve lost many brake lines on 1990’s and earlier trucks. Fuel lines, too. But that seems to happen less on anything newer, I suspect the materials and coatings have improved.
 
I am replacing any steel brakeline I run into with copper nickel. It seems to hold up to brew they are using on winter roads.
 
peakbagger said:
I am replacing any steel brakeline I run into with copper nickel. It seems to hold up to brew they are using on winter roads.
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Why not stainless? That's what most guys I know seem to be using, here.
 
Copper nickel is a lot easier to work with,,may not be as pretty as stainless but it can be bent by hand or with a tool and it flares a lot easier. Also its less prone to cracking from vibration. Stainless pretty well needs to be bent prior to installation, fine if you are building a hot rod but not so fine if you are trying to replace a line that needs to be threaded around an engine, an exhaust and frame rail. On one recent replacement if I had used stainless I would have needed 3 unions and bent three pieces of tube which means 5 flares, with CuNi I flared on end then pulled the other end in through a hole in the fender well and slowly fed it where it needed to go, then formed the bends by hand so it fit in the intended location then flared the other end under the truck and screwed it in. Not as pretty and shiny but I really do not care what it looks like where it went.

Stainless is difficult to flare, many flaring tools are not rated for stainless and on occasion the flare seat cracks. Its not easy to see and will mate up but it will eventually leak. There are special flaring jigs that will work but the are quite expensive. Its pretty rare to see flared stainless in industry, almost every piece of stainless tubing used ferrule type fittings due to the potential for flare cracks. Ferrule fittings are nice but take up a lot of room.
 
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peakbagger said:
Copper nickel is a lot easier to work with,,may not be as pretty as stainless but it can be bent by hand or with a tool and it flares a lot easier. Also its less prone to cracking from vibration. Stainless pretty well needs to be bent prior to installation, fine if you are building a hot rod but not so fine if you are trying to replace a line that needs to be threaded around an engine, an exhaust and frame rail. On one recent replacement if I had used stainless I would have needed 3 unions and bent three pieces of tube which means 5 flares, with CuNi I flared on end then pulled the other end in through a hole in the fender well and slowly fed it where it needed to go, then formed the bends by hand so it fit in the intended location then flared the other end under the truck and screwed it in. Not as pretty and shiny but I really do not care what it looks like where it went.

Stainless is difficult to flare, many flaring tools are not rated for stainless and on occasion the flare seat cracks. Its not easy to see and will mate up but it will eventually leak. There are special flaring jigs that will work but the are quite expensive. Its pretty rare to see flared stainless in industry, almost every piece of stainless tubing used ferrule type fittings due to the potential for flare cracks. Ferrule fittings are nice but take up a lot of room.
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If I had an ultimate budget stainless braided lines would be run from MC to caliper. Obviously my budget is not unlimited (Edit: this is a terrible idea) so good tip on the CuNi. I've had my fair share of dealing with brake lines and flaring on the vehicle.
 
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SpaceBus said:
If I had an ultimate budget stainless braided lines would be run from MC to caliper.
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Wouldn’t that make for spongy brakes? Stainless braided is better than other soft line types, but I have to imagine it’s nowhere near as good as hard line.
 
Ashful said:
Wouldn’t that make for spongy brakes? Stainless braided is better than other soft line types, but I have to imagine it’s nowhere near as good as hard line.
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I don't think it is any different than hard line for expansion, but I've been wrong many times before.

Edit: you are right, that would be garbage.
 
Ashful said:
Wouldn’t that make for spongy brakes? Stainless braided is better than other soft line types, but I have to imagine it’s nowhere near as good as hard line.
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After having a stainless braided supply line on our HW heater spring a leak after just 3 years in service I am leary of that option.
 
begreen said:
After having a stainless braided supply line on our HW heater spring a leak after just 3 years in service I am leary of that option.
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I'm pretty sure the stainless flex lines for domestic plumbing and brake lines are a bit different. Did your HW heater line have a sheath around the stainless?
 
SpaceBus said:
Did your HW heater line have a sheath around the stainless?
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Stainless braiding. This is a much lower pressure application and perhaps different construction?
 
Or maybe not?! :eek:

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begreen said:
Or maybe not?! :eek:

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I would not recommend, but I think you wouldn't try anyway. I've never seen automotive stainless braided brake hose without a nylon sheath. I had purple ones on my LJ Wrangler :cool:
 
SpaceBus said:
I would not recommend, but I think you wouldn't try anyway. I've never seen automotive stainless braided brake hose without a nylon sheath. I had purple ones on my LJ Wrangler :cool:
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I think I will just continue to avoid road salt.
 
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Ashful said:
I’ve lost many brake lines on 1990’s and earlier trucks. Fuel lines, too. But that seems to happen less on anything newer, I suspect the materials and coatings have improved.
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You obviously havnt owned and gm trucks since then. They have major rust issues with brake and fuel lines. I have been replacing with stainless for years now. Yes you need a different flaring tool but it isn't a big deal. Actually lately I just buy a full prebent stainless set when ever I start to see rust on lines. Trans cooler lines are a big problem also.
 
bholler said:
You obviously havnt owned and gm trucks since then. They have major rust issues with brake and fuel lines. I have been replacing with stainless for years now. Yes you need a different flaring tool but it isn't a big deal. Actually lately I just buy a full prebent stainless set when ever I start to see rust on lines. Trans cooler lines are a big problem also.
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That is correct. I dropped GM in the early 2000's, when they stopped offering a manual transmission in their 1500's. I switched to Dodge, and was really not happy to be making the switch, but it was what I had to do to buy a manual trans in a new truck at the time. I have to admit I was wrong in my anticipation of poor reliability from Dodge, though... the two Dodge trucks and one Dodge car I have owned over the last 15 years have been infinitely more reliable than any GM product I ever owned.
 
Ashful said:
That is correct. I dropped GM in the early 2000's, when they stopped offering a manual transmission in their 1500's. I switched to Dodge, and was really not happy to be making the switch, but it was what I had to do to buy a manual trans in a new truck at the time. I have to admit I was wrong in my anticipation of poor reliability from Dodge, though... the two Dodge trucks and one Dodge car I have owned over the last 15 years have been infinitely more reliable than any GM product I ever owned.
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To be fair vehicles have changed dramatically in the last fifteen years.
 
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Investigate the hours of TV watching per country and the obesity problem per country some time.
 
LOL at engine block replacement at 80k miles. The old 94' land cruiser is still on its original engine at 320k miles and doesn't skip a beat. Frequent oil changes and regular maintenance are key.... went on a 2500 mile road trip in July, had one issue, a burned out headlight bulb.

[Hearth.com] Stupid Subaru commercial[Hearth.com] Stupid Subaru commercial[Hearth.com] Stupid Subaru commercial[Hearth.com] Stupid Subaru commercial
 
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PaulOinMA said:
Lots of Subarus with VT plates here in New England. Is it a state law or something that you must own at least one Subaru? :)

Aside from being totaled in an accident, a car should easily last 10 years these days.
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My wifes 2010 Camry is still running like it was new with 180,000 mi on it.
 
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