Suspended slab anyone ?

[Fi-Q]

I am slowly starting to plan the finishing of my house. House was design to the a 1.5 in slab poored over the first floor. (Engineered floor trust).

Anybody have done one thereself ?

Haven't decided yet if I'll be going with sleeper or a full slab, any tought ? At first I was all sold on gyp-crete but after a lot of reading, I guess I'll probabblly be going with a light weight self leveling grout, one that won't be affected if ever there is a water infiltration (Like the gyp-crete).

Also, I like to have the opportunity to rent out my basement apartment once we move upstairs, so I was thinking to lay a plastic layer or a kind rubber mat between the plywood and the slab to help sound-proffing it. Something that would create a good vibration stopper between the slab and the wood. Any idea on what could be used and if it would be worth it ?

After a lot of reading, I am still wondering If I should have simply planned for a stapple under for the main floor, but all my doors and windows are approx 1.5 in higher that the standard to acomodate the 1.5 in slab. And radiant panel seems to be really pricey. I will have significant heat from the sun (Solar passive) and I am affraid that a slab may react to slowly compare to a staple under or radiant panel.

Any inputs would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Lake Girl]

You will have to have some kind of fire rating between the two dwelling spaces (check codes - local and provincial). Roxul in the floor joists will act as a fire/smoke barrier and provides sound proofing.

PS were the engineered drawings done with apartment on lowest level in mind?

 

[Fi-Q]

Aournd here, code is no big deal.... But of course I do want to mkae everything as safe as possible. AS far as fire retardant, I was thinking about a double 3/4 gypse layer for the ceilling or maybe some fire retardant Sonopan. As far as insulation (to insulate under the radiant floor) the best recommanded method is blow in cellulose. My second choice would definetly be Roxul, that'S what i have in the double studed walls.

Originally, the house was not ''Design'' for a basement apartment. But now that there is a fully finished aprtment in the basement (Where we are living while finishing the 2 other floor) we're thinking of MAYBE, that's a big maybe, renting it out. Thinking about it, a fully finished basement apartment everything included could go as high as 600 / months around here, so, If we rent it for 10 years, it would pay for a shop with a wood boiler in it .

 

[mmudd]

I would stick to your plan to pour slab and also I would go with standard concrete if your floor is designed to hold the wieght. The gyp stuff does not hold up very well is what I have heard, but its only hearsay, but we know how well concrete handles radiant. You need something over the plywood before pouring concrete, at least plastic. The epdm rubber used for roof applications might be good, not sure how much sound proofing it would do, but good insulation below will also help. EPDM can be glued at the seams for water tight seal. Sprayed in urethane would probably be the best insuation for that application I think.

 

[Fi-Q]

And there is the debate of full slab VS 2x2 sleeper 8'' center with the tubing and concrete in between, this would give the opportunity to installed real hard wood floor.

I am sure sprayed urethane would be best, but I am sure it would be pretty costly as well, can't remember, but doing the whole basement wall was a couple gran five years ago, and the whole first floor as pprox. the same sqaure footage as the 8 walls of the basement.

 

[mmudd]

I guess if poured floor won't be the exposed slab, the light wieght concrete/grout would be ok in between 2x2 sleepers, not a big deal if it cracks. There are some nice look floors you can do with good concrete, stained, wax etc.

 

[Fi-Q]

I do have a concrete floor in the basement. I stained it and put a concrete varnish over it. It´s not bad, after 5 years, it would need a new staining and varnish, it sure shows some wear. But we decided we did not like a concrete floor enough to have it on main floor. It´s going to be wood flooring all over, even in the kitchen ( not my call, but that´s what the Chef wants!!)

 

[Vande]

You could pour traditional concrete without the sleepers and install a glue down hardwood. There are many species and styles available. If you ever wanted to remove the hardwood and install tile you would not have to worry about the sleepers

 

[Fi-Q]

You could pour traditional concrete without the sleepers and install a glue down hardwood. There are many species and styles available. If you ever wanted to remove the hardwood and install tile you would not have to worry about the sleepers

I was thinking that I could installed tile evebtually even with sleeper on ?

 

[Vande]

If you wanted to go to just tile you would want to remove the sleepers and grout in concrete or mortar. The sleepers would move differently in relation to the concrete and cause tile cracks or at the minimum grout cracks. The sleepers may even cause the tiles to pop off the floor as they expand and contract.

 

[Fi-Q]

If you wanted to go to just tile you would want to remove the sleepers and grout in concrete or mortar. The sleepers would move differently in relation to the concrete and cause tile cracks or at the minimum grout cracks. The sleepers may even cause the tiles to pop off the floor as they expand and contract.

Thinking about it, it make perfect sense !! Thanks for the input !! I will have to add this in the equation !