Sweating Ball Valves

[MNBobcat]

Tonight I had to sweat a ball valve and while doing so I came up with a question I'd like to resolve for the future.

The ball valve was in a vertical position. I needed to sweat a fitting onto the top of the ball valve. I got to thinking that it could be a problem if I put too much solder on and it ran down into the ball area. I ended up flipping the ball valve over (end-for-end) and sweating the "top" while it was under the valve. I let it cool, then flipped it back over and sweated the fitting in the bottom. The idea being gravity wouldn't cause solder to flow towards the ball.

Would it have been a problem had I sweated the top fitting while the valve was vertical and the fitting was sitting on the top? Can solder cause the ball valve not to seal if solder runs onto the ball? Is there any plastic (as a seal) anywhere near the ball that would melt if I got it too hot or is the entire valve made out of metal?

 

[spot]

If you are using proper sweating temperature and technique, there is really no reason to worry.

It is true that if you put in too much solder, it may run inside and onto the valve...but you gotta put in a LOT of solder to do that.

Solder gets pulled into the fitting by the heat of the torch (capillary action) not so much by gravity, this is why you were able to sweat it "upside down" and have the solder run "up" in to the fitting.

The valve inside is made of Teflon and the seals are rubber, both of which are heat-resistant to a point (the manufacturer knows you will be applying heat and builds accordingly) but they will melt if too much heat is applied. Again - you really gotta apply a LOT of heat to do this.

Valves are also available in thread-on or compression-fitting styles to eliminate the heat and solder issue completely.
You can also use a special "copper-pipe" glue. I am still leery about that but it's an option.
Or switch to CPVC which cuts and glues together the same as PVC - very easy, quick, and the cost is about the same as copper.

In short, if you know how to sweat a fitting properly, you should have no problem with valves. If you are torching the hell out of things and have solder dripping everywhere, then try something else.

 

[MNBobcat]

Thanks for the info. I do know how to sweat properly. I haven't done a lot with sweating valves though. I've done maybe 10 or 12 in the past. Never had a problem with solder messing up the valve but its good to know what I'm dealing with.

 

[firefighterjake]

Thanks for the info. I do know how to sweat properly . . ..

I wonder if I've been sweating correctly. I mean, it's not a problem today, but in middle of the summer I sweat all the time and I would hate to think I was doing it improperly.

Sorry, I know what you meant . . . just struck me as funny for some reason.

 

[jabush]

I've been using "just for copper" for some time now and have not had any problems.

http://www.justforcopper.com/

 

[MNBobcat]

Thanks for the info. I do know how to sweat properly . . ..

I wonder if I've been sweating correctly. I mean, it's not a problem today, but in middle of the summer I sweat all the time and I would hate to think I was doing it improperly.

Sorry, I know what you meant . . . just struck me as funny for some reason.

LOL! It struck me as funny too. I doubt that there is a guy among us who doesn't read the title and if only for a brief moment removes "valve" from the title.

 

[daveswoodhauler]

Funny - reminded me of the SNL skit with Alec Baldwin I think and the gals talking about the "sweaty balls"...that one was a classic.

Edit, just remembered that it was "salty balls, oh well

 

[Czech]

It was the SCHWEATY WEINER CO! Now that was way funny! Now I'll be laughing to myself all day, cool. Anyways, I've sweat hundreds of ball valves and never had an issue. Simple advice would be to crack the valve open (meaning 45 degrees), flux it up good as capillary action and flux cause the solder to flow. Start on your lowest joint first as heat rises and the top joint should heat that much quicker when you get there. Never chase the flame with the solder meaning the heated joint should do the melting and not the flame, solder the backside of the joint and flame the front. Never stand under the work area with an open collared shirt. Always fill a bucket of water, drink beer, and/or locate a fire extinquisher prior to turning off the water main and lighting the touch. Wipe those joints when done, have pride in a job well done as you don't want someone down the road saying 'what the hell was this nimrod thinking?' Just my two cents...