T6-> DVL>ClassA>Thimball Install Question

[madison]

I have designed and have had constructed a stone hearth for a PE T6, to be professionally installed next week. After laying my template inline with the thimble on the hearth wall, it appears the PE T6 will reside on the hearthstone as I designed, with 6-7" corner clearances and centering on the hearthstone. The wall thimble was installed, than the bluestone hearthstone, granite and dolomitic limestone on the walls.

The only issue, and have not seen it discussed in this forum, is the ability to adjust the length of a horizontal run of the DVL stovepipe... connecting to the Class A pipe to transition the thimble. I am worried that the position (distance) of the T6 from the wall/thimble will be determined by the sections of DVL pipe 6/12/24/36" and its connections. And not where I have the template placed on the hearthstone. Would using multiple 6" of DVL allow for fudging the total length to fit where I designed the stove to rest?

The question is, how much give and take in length, can be made during the assembly of the pieces of DVL pipe. And/Or can a adjustable length of DVL be used in a horizontal run?

Images attached to possibly help: the roll of duct tape represents the T6 stovepipe connector centered 8.5" from the back wall of the T6. Masking tape on bluestone is my designed and hopeful resting area for the T6. Horizontal distance from T6 to thimble is ~ 30". Then 2 stories of class a thru ceiling and roof.

Thanks for all the information and experiences that is shared in the hearth.com forums.

 

[snowtime]

Hi Madison, I do not see any reason DW telescoping could not be used on the horizontal but i do not have a truly definitive answer. So I am bumping your thread.

 

[begreen]

Greetings Madison. That's a stunning setting for an Alderlea. It's going to look fantastic. Please post some pictures of the final installation with the stove burning.

What's the distance from the centerline of the stove connector to the thimble? It seems like an adjustable DVL could be used there if required. Be sure the installer puts an uphill pitch to the horiz run of at least 1/4"/ft.

 

[Todd]

I'm sure you can fine some adjustable pipe that will work. My question is what is the clearance to the ceiling? You may need double wall pipe or a shield for single wall to pull off the clearance requirements.

 

[madison]

Thanks for the replies, I could not find any specifications regarding the use of adjustable double wall stovepipe horizontally. I am now relieved that the stove may reside where I have planned it. The mason did a hell of a job cutting the bluestone hearth to my crazy specs for the corner install and unequal corner wall dimensions. I spent many days laying out templates, masking tape and reading this forum and the Alderlea manual.

The stove shop/installer (first time installing a pacific energy unit) is planning on double wall from the t6 to the thimble, top of the thimble is 9" from the ceiling. From what I understand there will be a connection to Class A chimney for passing through the wall thimble. Then class A from there on to the chimney cap...

Distance from the front face of the thimble to the centerline of the T6 stovepipe connection (roll of duct tape in the pictures) is ~ 30".

I will post pics of the completed project, fire etc, hopefully next week.

FYI, in researching flue temperature monitoring in adjustable double wall stovepipe ( https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/21244/ ) I spoke with the technical rep at Tru Tel , and they DO NOT recommend their GT200 (#1910 02 66) or GT225 for woodstoves as their probe will fracture and fail at temps over 800 degrees.

Any suggestions for temperature monitoring in double wall Adjustable stovepipe?

 

[begreen]

Looks like you are good to go, but I can see your concern. Telescoping lengths start at 29", but they also make a small adjustable pipe for solving this issue. It comes in 6" and 12". The 6" piece can adjust from 6" to 9". The adjustable 12" piece can adjust from 12" to 19" in length.

If I'm reading the Simpson specs correctly, the offset of the 90 is going to make the horiz run ~30" minus 7.5" to centerline of the stove collar. That means a possible need for a 22.5" length. To cover all bases, for that horiz run I'd have the installer bring a 24" length of DVL and also bring a 6" length (8606) + an adjustable 12" piece (part #8687).


Condar makes a probe thermometer for your application.
(broken link removed to http://www.condar.com/probe_meters_woodstoves.html)

 

[fossil]

Whatever you do, don't use a roll of duct tape for a stove collar. Just a tip. %-P (Beautiful job so far...looking forward to the finished pics!) Rick

 

[madison]

thanks again to all, good points by all, I will resist all temptation to use duct and masking tape from this point forward.

There will be a cleanout "T" on the base of the class a (behind the thimbled stone wall). excellent suggestion bg regarding covering the distance between the 90 elbow and thimble.

Regarding the condar probe thermometers, is there an accuracy issue with these probes and the adjustable dvl stovepipe? This thread ( https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/21244/ ), a user reported that the 4 metal layers in adjustable stovepipe affected the accuracy of the temperature reading... I will assume that you could determine where the 4 layers do not overlap and drill the hole for the probe at that point?

 

[begreen]

These are not lab thermometers. I accept their reading with a grain of salt. It wouldn't surprise me if ours was reading a bit cool. For reference, I also have one on the stovetop to track the correlation between the top temp and the flue temp. I trust the stovetop one, as confirmed with my IR thermometer. It'll be 30 years old next year and still works great.

 

[madison]

BG, thanks

Is your flue temp probe inserted through adjustable double layer stovepipe?

And I interpret your comments: you essentially use the T6 surface temp (steel "griddle" top or vented cast iron top?) and only monitor the flue for temperature trending?

 

[begreen]

The flue probe is in the lower, extended portion of the double-wall pipe. It goes through the outer and inner layers, but not the additional upper telescope layer. The surface thermometer is on the stove body, about 4" to the left and front of the flue collar. I can view it through the slats in the cast iron trivet top. I also have an ecofan on the trivet top. This comes on at about 200 degrees and gives me another visual indication of the stove heat.

Burning wood is a combination of art and science. There are many variables that can affect the burn. I like having multiple data points to learn about how the stove is working. It feeds the wood geek in me. That's part of why I like burning. Some of the variable are the flue installation, outside temps, wood type + quality + part of the tree, stage of the burn, ash bed, cap screen, etc. The two thermometers, visual cues, feel of the wood, etc. all contribute towards learning how your stove works. The Alderlea is pretty new for me too. I've only had about 10 fires in it so far. It's still teaching me about what burns best and when. It'll be fun to see how the EBT freshens the fire by watching the flue and stove top temps.