Tee connect in the wall?

[TWilk117]

First off excuse my stupidity or lack of intelligence. I am a simple man.
You may remember me from posts agonizing over my inefficient heatilator FP that made my knotty cedar walls nearly too hot to touch. Or my small cook stove install in said heatilator.
As many stated if I really wanted to heat with wood, I would need a bigger stove.
Whelp I agree and I am at that fork in the road. The problem is a bigger stove in my small living/family room would look awkward and surely cook us out. Would be virtually unusable in milder weather. (Maybe a Jøtul f602 v2 but still no overnight burn times.) ((one day though in the addition))

So, in walks the Englander 28-4000 new for 999.99 at HD. For the basement.
So I’m thinking I’ll cut out the damper and maybe a bit more of the top of heatilator (circa 1947) and make a larger hole in the masonry floor where the ashes dump down to the basement to allow a liner to fill the void. Insulated of coarse.
I’ve been doing extensive research and there’s not much information out there from anyone who has actually done this.
Just, Can this be done? Yes this can be done. Basically.
I understand that tee is used in the masonry wall so as not to bend the liner and for clean out. My question is how in the world do you cleanout the tee that’s inside of a masonry wall?????
Thanks and praises

 

[mark cline]

You don’t

 

[bholler]

You certainly do. With a vacum.or you run the liner down and sweep out the wall for a cleanout

 

[Woody Stover]

excuse my stupidity or lack of intelligence. I am a simple man.

Hold on there just one daggone second, podner. I'm the undisputed king of dimwits on this board, and you're not gonna take my title without a fight!
I would just put a stove upstairs..1200 sq.ft. is a big enough house to absorb some heat from a smaller stove.
How big is the fireplace? You'll need to know that for an insert. Or for a free-standing stove that could rear-vent or top-vent into the fireplace chimney, possible with some of it in the fireplace to get it out of the way some.
First, I would weatherize the house; Blow insulation into the walls, insulate the attic better, seal air leaks around doors and windows, ceiling light fixtures and attic access.
Then you can put a smaller stove in, that won't cook you out. The insulated house won't lose heat as fast, so it won't get too cold when the stove burns down overnight.
You can put a desk fan on the floor in a cooler room of the house, on low, moving cool, dense air toward the bottom of the stove room door. That will enhance the natural convection loop of warm air out of the stove room, and keep the seating area in the room comfortable.

 

[Smolder]

First off excuse my stupidity or lack of intelligence. I am a simple man.
You may remember me from posts agonizing over my inefficient heatilator FP that made my knotty cedar walls nearly too hot to touch. Or my small cook stove install in said heatilator.
As many stated if I really wanted to heat with wood, I would need a bigger stove.
Whelp I agree and I am at that fork in the road. The problem is a bigger stove in my small living/family room would look awkward and surely cook us out. Would be virtually unusable in milder weather. (Maybe a Jøtul f602 v2 but still no overnight burn times.) ((one day though in the addition))

So, in walks the Englander 28-4000 new for 999.99 at HD. For the basement.
So I’m thinking I’ll cut out the damper and maybe a bit more of the top of heatilator (circa 1947) and make a larger hole in the masonry floor where the ashes dump down to the basement to allow a liner to fill the void. Insulated of coarse.
I’ve been doing extensive research and there’s not much information out there from anyone who has actually done this.
Just, Can this be done? Yes this can be done. Basically.
I understand that tee is used in the masonry wall so as not to bend the liner and for clean out. My question is how in the world do you cleanout the tee that’s inside of a masonry wall?????
Thanks and praises

We installed a door.

 

[TWilk117]

We installed a door.

That looks really good Smolder

 

[TWilk117]

Hold on there just one daggone second, podner. I'm the undisputed king of dimwits on this board, and you're not gonna take my title without a fight!
I would just put a stove upstairs..1200 sq.ft. is a big enough house to absorb some heat from a smaller stove.
How big is the fireplace? You'll need to know that for an insert. Or for a free-standing stove that could rear-vent or top-vent into the fireplace chimney, possible with some of it in the fireplace to get it out of the way some.
First, I would weatherize the house; Blow insulation into the walls, insulate the attic better, seal air leaks around doors and windows, ceiling light fixtures and attic access.
Then you can put a smaller stove in, that won't cook you out. The insulated house won't lose heat as fast, so it won't get too cold when the stove burns down overnight.
You can put a desk fan on the floor in a cooler room of the house, on low, moving cool, dense air toward the bottom of the stove room door. That will enhance the natural convection loop of warm air out of the stove room, and keep the seating area in the room comfortable.

Not an open floor plan.

 

[Smolder]

That looks really good Smolder

Thank you! Found it on Amazon. It’s cast iron. It needs better paint (easy), and I will seal to the brick with butyl tape behind the flange as soon as I figure out where I put that.

 

[bholler]

Thank you! Found it on Amazon. It’s cast iron. It needs better paint (easy), and I will seal to the brick with butyl tape behind the flange as soon as I figure out where I put that.

No butyl tape anywhere in the chimney system. Make sure the bottom of the tee the cleanout any block cores etc are sealed up well with noncombustible material

 

[begreen]

Thank you! Found it on Amazon. It’s cast iron. It needs better paint (easy), and I will seal to the brick with butyl tape behind the flange as soon as I figure out where I put that.

Use silicone to make the gasket. Just put a bead around the door perimeter, close the door and let it set up.

 

[Smolder]

Use silicone to make the gasket. Just put a bead around the door perimeter, close the door and let it set up.

I don’t put silicon on the brick. If it was a newer home I certainly would.

 

[Smolder]

Use silicone to make the gasket. Just put a bead around the door perimeter, close the door and let it set up.

The butyl tape is for the flange that overlays the brick. Door has a fiberglass seal.

 

[begreen]

I don’t put silicon on the brick. If it was a newer home I certainly would.

Why not? It will peel off.

 

[bholler]

The butyl tape is for the flange that overlays the brick. Door has a fiberglass seal.

You put it behind the flange and will never see it. Then seal everything up.inside with mortar

 

[Smolder]

You put it behind the flange and will never see it. Then seal everything up.inside with mortar

I’ll he mortaring it up in the spring. I keep a supply of era appropriate lime mortar on hand.

 

[bholler]

I’ll he mortaring it up in the spring. I keep a supply of era appropriate lime mortar on hand.

There is no need to use line mortar inside the chimney. And it won't last long at all if it is exposed to any creosote.