Testing Stove Pipe

[jp57]

I had to reconfigure the pipe on my stove, and short of running a full fire, is there an easy way to test for leaks?

 

[SidecarFlip]

Your nose.....LOL

Candidly, the only joints that concern me are / is the connection to the combustion blower outlet where the vent pipe starts and the joint inside my wall thimble because I have a pretty long distance between the stove and my 3-4 cleanout Tee outside. I don't much care if any of the outside joints leak a bit because everything is outside anyway.

If you are concerned with any interior joints leaking, tape them adhesive foil tape over the joints. Foil tape is available at Menards or any big box store in the HVAC department. Usually by the 'Frost King' plastic window covers.

As an aside, what I did where the vent pipe connects to the exhaust outlet on my stove, it, I took a thin kerf cut off wheel on my cordless 4.5" angle grinder and removed a couple inches of the outer galvanized jacket, exposing the inner stainless liner. The I coated the end of the outer diameter of the exhaust outlet with high temperature RTV, slipped on the exposed stainless liner, added a quality Witek worm clamp, tightened it and it's been like that for at least 10 years, Very secure and leak proof joint. Never fool with it, no need to. When removing the outer galvanized pope you have to be very careful not to damage the inner stainless pipe. Did mine on the bench in the shop prior to installing the rest of the venting. Duravent as well as Selkirk sell a transition pipe, but I'm too cheap to buy one...lol. Just remember Selkirk and Duravent won't interchange.

 

[jp57]

Your nose.....LOL

Candidly, the only joints that concern me are / is the connection to the combustion blower outlet where the vent pipe starts and the joint inside my wall thimble because I have a pretty long distance between the stove and my 3-4 cleanout Tee outside. I don't much care if any of the outside joints leak a bit because everything is outside anyway.

If you are concerned with any interior joints leaking, tape them adhesive foil tape over the joints. Foil tape is available at Menards or any big box store in the HVAC department. Usually by the 'Frost King' plastic window covers.

As an aside, what I did where the vent pipe connects to the exhaust outlet on my stove, it, I took a thin kerf cut off wheel on my cordless 4.5" angle grinder and removed a couple inches of the outer galvanized jacket, exposing the inner stainless liner. The I coated the end of the outer diameter of the exhaust outlet with high temperature RTV, slipped on the exposed stainless liner, added a quality Witek worm clamp, tightened it and it's been like that for at least 10 years, Very secure and leak proof joint. Never fool with it, no need to. When removing the outer galvanized pope you have to be very careful not to damage the inner stainless pipe. Did mine on the bench in the shop prior to installing the rest of the venting. Duravent as well as Selkirk sell a transition pipe, but I'm too cheap to buy one...lol. Just remember Selkirk and Duravent won't interchange

Thanks, Sidecar!

I actually already have a roll of foil tape, I can tape the one connection that worries me. I had to redo only the inside pipe and very confident of the connection at the stove. It's where the 90 bend goes into the thimble pipe that has me concerned. The attached picture is before I had to move the pipe.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I see your issue. Most PV elbows are sealed inside with RTV in each section. I take it you never rotated the sections (which would compromise the sealing internally?). if you did, I'd suggest buying a new elbow as it will be sealed internally. Just a thought on my part.

I tend not to use the foil tape as it's a royal PITA to remove to clean the venting.