the right flashing for the slope

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jblivesmall

New Member
Oct 6, 2017
57
revelstoke bc
my woodstove supplier sent me home with a 1/12-7/12 Excell flashing and after I tried it on my ever so slightly slopped 5th wheel rv roof, it seems to be the wrong flashing. I measure a decline of about 1.5 inches in a span of 12inches. Would the 0/12 - 2/12 work? If I understand this right, although this 0/12-2/12 is considered a 'flat' flashing, there is a bit of play for an ever so slight slope? thank you
 
If you have a 1.5/12 slope on your roof, that is between 1/12 and 7/12. I am not sure what the concern is.
 
If you have a 1.5/12 slope on your roof, that is between 1/12 and 7/12. I am not sure what the concern is.
The concern is that when I lay the flashing on the roof, the top flashing exit hole is at quite an angle. meaning the storm collar would sit at about a 30’ angle on the flashing which does not see right.
 
That is the difference between 1/12 and 7/12. The flashing is on the lower end of the design standards. On an RV I personally would consider a silicone boot instead of a metal flashing.
 
That is the difference between 1/12 and 7/12. The flashing is on the lower end of the design standards. On an RV I personally would consider a silicone boot instead of a metal flashing.
ok, so would I be better of with the 0/12 to 2/12?
 
I am not considering the sillicone option. I just want an answer to the questions I asked since I days away from doing the install. thank you
 
ok, so would I be better of with the 0/12 to 2/12?
Yes, that is dead centered in the tolerances. I would suspect either is acceptable though. I would be most concerned with the seal on the flashing to the roof with that little slope.
 
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yes
 
Yes, that is dead centered in the tolerances. I would suspect either is acceptable though. I would be most concerned with the seal on the flashing to the roof with that little slope.
Bingo
 
As far as sealing goes,
I will basically caulk it underneath as well as ‘gluing’ it with double sided butyl adhesive tape. and caulk the edges as well as taping them with butyl tape. I purchased a ‘cold weather primer to be sure the butyl tape sticks.
 
Is your roof metal or bladder? RV's are notorious for leaking. It is the primary cause of failure to the structure. I personally would use the paint on sealer and a silicone boot. Far, far longer life and durability.
 
Is your roof metal or bladder? RV's are notorious for leaking. It is the primary cause of failure to the structure. I personally would use the paint on sealer and a silicone boot. Far, far longer life and durability.
It is a smooth EPDM rubber roof. no grooves.
 
It is a smooth EPDM rubber roof. no grooves.
Metal to rubber is a tough seal. Heat will make the metal expand and contract a lot, the rubber zero. It can work, but is can be temperamental to get a long term seal.
 
Metal to rubber is a tough seal. Heat will make the metal expand and contract a lot, the rubber zero. It can work, but is can be temperamental to get a long term seal.

the roof already has a bunch of metal junk installed all over it. There has to be a way to make this work. We just have to think outside the box - literally.
 
The paint on sealer is probably the best option.
 
The paint on sealer is probably the best option.
when you say 'paint on sealant', what do you have in mind exactly? is it butyl based? can it be applied in this cold weather (near or below freezing)? name of product perhaps. It's pretty overwhelming in the caulking section, and unfortunately lots of staff don't know the products. tks
 
It comes from the RV store. Made for rubber roofs.
 
It comes from the RV store. Made for rubber roofs.
oh ya right!! the rv store: the place where everyone thinks Inside the box... and where nobody has the interest o or patience to talk to a woman who choises to live in an rv in the winter and who is crazy to put a eoid stove in it... etc . Ya I love to go to that store and get treated really badly.
 
oh ya right!! the rv store: the place where everyone thinks Inside the box... and where nobody has the interest o or patience to talk to a woman who choises to live in an rv in the winter and who is crazy to put a eoid stove in it... etc . Ya I love to go to that store and get treated really badly.
Do you have the correct clearances for the wood stove in your trailer?
 
oh ya right!! the rv store: the place where everyone thinks Inside the box... and where nobody has the interest o or patience to talk to a woman who choises to live in an rv in the winter and who is crazy to put a eoid stove in it... etc . Ya I love to go to that store and get treated really badly.
Walk into the store. Look straight ahead and ask where the brush able seam sealer is. Get a quart can. Go to Harbor Freight and buy a 2" paint brush. Paint over all seams about 3" out and over the seams and screw heads about 1/8" thick. Look around the top of the RV and repair any other open looking seams you see. Climb down without falling, job done.
 
Do you have the correct clearances for the wood stove in your trailer?
Yes I do. and more. I overbuilt a tilled heatshied and heartpad on greene boards, 1 inch off the wall with hat channels. I purchase the heatshiel manifactured by Jotul for that stove, therefore I can be 9” at the back. I have 6” double wall pipe, and square ceilling support and 6” insulated chimney. Actually, the only part I am unsure about in terms of proper clearance is wether I need 1” clearance around the sqare suport and the roof material. The insulated chimney is 8” diameter, the square support is 10x10. I was under the impression I needed a 10x10 hole.