1st stove install, questions

[pnnf]

Hello everyone,

After reading a bunch of forums and self educating I decided to join here because of all the sound advise I've been seeing. I will be installing my 1st stove soon and I have a few questions about if I'm understanding what I'm reading. Any help would greatly appreciated.
Heres a list of what I plan on getting ( I already bought the stove).

1- USStove2000
1- DuraVent 6 in. x 17 in. Triple-Wall Chimney Pipe Up Through the Ceiling Basic Install Kit
1- DuraVent DVL 6 in. Appliance Adapter Section in Black
1- DuraVent 6DVL-68TA Telescoping Connector
1- DuraPlus 6 in. x 24 in. Stainless Steel Triple-Wall Chimney Stove Pipe
2- DuraPlus 6 in. x 36 in. Stainless Steel Triple-Wall Chimney Stove Pipe
1- DuraVent 6 in DuraPlus extendable roof bracket

19 in. x 20 in. Manufactured hearth stone
Manufactured Stacked Stone Wall Tile

Here are the clearances for my stove:




Here a pic of where the stove will set:



Clearances in the pic are:
95" from top of carpet to ceiling
9" from wing wall to left side of stove top
20" from wing wall to left side of pipe collar opening
6" from rear heat shield to drywall
8" from rear of pipe collar opening to drywall
20" from right side of stove top to couch arm
31" from right side of pipe collar opening to couch arm
63" from top of stove to ceiling
8.5" from top of pedestal foot to bottom of fire box

I have been in construction for most of my life so I know my way around tape measures and tools which is to say I know enough to be dangerous with this project
This is a mobile home and I plan on taking extra steps by protecting the drywall. The plan is to build a hearth out of 2x4's and topped with hardi board and hearth stone to at least match the required dimensions from the manual above.



The stone is textured and will vary in thickness plus the mortar will leave about 63" to the ceiling. If I'm understanding everything correctly this should leave me just fine. The walls will have manufactured stone on them. I plan on using 1" metal channel secured to the studs and then apply Hardi board to them followed by screen and then the stone.


Here comes one of my questions and the reason the stove is sitting like it is currently The stove manual states that with double wall pipe the clearance from the back of the stove to the wall is 12", however, its my understanding that with wall protection I can reduce that by half ... =6"??? If that is correct than the left side clearance is now also reduced to half which would be 9"??? I hope this is correct seeing that I dont have too much more room to play with.

So question #2 ... Wall protection: 1" track + 1/2" board + 1 1/2 stone + mortar will make the stone face about 3 1/2 - 4" from the drywall. I'm thinking that even with the rock and air channel the clearance to combustibles is still to be observed. This would put the rear heat shield of the stove about 2" from the rock face ( depending on how far the rock face ends up from the wall with mortar). Am I thinking about this correctly, is 2" too close to the rock face?

Question #3 ... How large does the wall protection need to be? I'm assuming that the wall protection should cover the wall out past the sides of the stove at least as far as the hearth recommendations? The wing wall will be covered but he rear wall would be at least 44" from the inside corner to the right of the stove. I'm thinking of going 48" just to use that stud. I'm also believing that if the wall protection reduces the minimums in half than the 16" pipe clearance now being 8" means the protection needs to go all the way up the wall ... but how much of a gap needs to be left? The base of the stove has an opening for a 4" fresh air pipe connector. The top of this connector is right in in line with the bottom of the fire box. How far above the hearth stone should the wall protection start? Is it also 1" meaning i need to have an opening in the stone for the fresh air pipe to go thru? I would think I cant have the stone starting 9" off the hearth especially since the drywall would be exposed to the bottom of the fire box. And at the top, what is the minimum needed between the top of the stone and the ceiling, 1"?

Question #4 ... The roof install kit I'm looking at has a chimney adapter but I do not know if it will work connecting DVL and triple wall chimney together, should I buy a separate adapter? The kit works from a 0 - 6 pitch roof. I'm at 4.5 on the pitch so that will work fine for me just not sure about the adapter.

I'm not 10 feet away from the peek of the roof so I will have to go at least two feet above the peek. I think that 8' of triple wall will get me there, with a roof bracket, ( have to put it together to know for sure) if needed ill buy another section. 8' of triple wall + 5' of DVL will give me about 13' total. Will this be enough for a good draft? I think I remember reading that anything 12' to 15' would be sufficient.

Thank you for any help with my thoughts and maybe with things I haven't considered~

 

[begreen]

Clearances are to the nearest combustible which would be to the drywall behind the stone facade. The manual doesn't explicitly permit the use of an NFPA 211 wall shield. It says to see the local safety dept which is seriously ambiguous. Regardless, per NFPA, clearances can not be reduced below 12". One thing to consider is leaving enough room behind the stove to easily service the blower. By the looks of things, the couch is too close.

I recommend getting the higher quality Duratech chimney pipe instead. This is infrastructure, even if the stove is replaced you want the best chimney installed. Also, it requires a smaller hole in the roof and more wiggle room due to the lesser diameter of Duratech.

 

[stoveliker]

as this is a mobile home, won't you need an outside air kit too? (b/c the home is so tight)
Mentioning now b/c once you make your hearth, it might be more difficult: it would need to go thru the floor or horizontally thru the wall (not up; horizontal or downward).

edit: or maybe that is your mention of the fresh air pipe. If so, good, you're aware.

 

[Rob_Red]

I’m sure the experts will chime in but do some searching around triple wall vs class a (insulated 2 wall chimney pipe)

I’ve always heard that triple wall is out dated because class A performs much better in terms of maintaining a hot flue temp and has a smaller profile.

 

[bholler]

I’m sure the experts will chime in but do some searching around triple wall vs class a (insulated 2 wall chimney pipe)

I’ve always heard that triple wall is out dated because class A performs much better in terms of maintaining a hot flue temp and has a smaller profile.

You are correct double wall insulated chimney pipe is superior to triple wall chimney pipe. But both types are class a chimneys. As are masonry chimneys built properly for solid fuel burners.

 

[Rickb]

1 other thing to consider..... Is this rated for use in a mobile home? I didnt download or read the manual. I just know a lot are not.

 

[kennyp2339]

1 other thing to consider..... Is this rated for use in a mobile home? I didnt download or read the manual. I just know a lot are not.

That stove is rated for a mobile home setup, if I remember correctly it will need a fresh air kit coming from the floor or bottom wall, stove should be bolted to the floor and I think this one had a provision of running a grounding wire from the stove base to a ground rod or water pipe.

 

[kennyp2339]

This is a mobile home and I plan on taking extra steps by protecting the drywall

I had this stoves bigger brother the 2500 years ago, I followed the manual to the T for install, I personally felt that the wall was way to warm (minimum spec w/ single wall) this stove likes to radiate, so please make sure the wall protection has the right 1" spacers, both bottom and top vented, even the knee wall. Other then that, take the existing sheet metal screws out that hold the reburn pipes in place and replace them with stainless ones, they hold up better to the heat and wont snap off when you have to remove the tubes to drop the baffle for cleaning.
Fresh air kit is needed, make sure that the air comes from either the floor (assuming its a crawl space underneath) or the side wall no higher then the fire box, use 3" metal dryer vent for that.

 

[begreen]

Mobile Home requirements (all caps are from the manual):
FOR USE IN MOBILE HOMES (U.S. ONLY)
• WARNING! DO NOT INSTALL IN SLEEPING ROOM.
• CAUTION! THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF THE MOBILE HOME FLOOR, WALL, AND CEILING/ROOF MUST BE MAINTAINED.
• USE A FACTORY BUILT CHIMNEY THAT COMPLIES WITH UL 103 STANDARDS; THEREFORE IT MUST BE A TYPE HT (2100°F).
• USE A SPARK ARRESTER.
• THE STOVE MUST BE ATTACHED TO THE STRUCTURE OF THE MOBILE HOME.
• Your wood stove is approved to be installed with an outside air intake (4FAK) which is necessary for a mobile home.

 

[begreen]

What is the attic height from the ceiling to the underside of the roof?

 

[begreen]

Q1: The minimum distance with a proper wall shield is 12" unless the manual states a lower, tested clearance
Q2: Clearance of 2" to rockface is ok, but see answer to Q1.
Q3: Good question. It would be great if manuals included this info, but US Stove does not acknowledge wall shielding in the manual other than the hint from the "safety dept". I generally like it to meet or exceed the hearth width/length requirement and a foot above the flue collar.
Q4: Need more info to know whether the kit is the best value or appropriate for the installation. Double-check the kit's flashing angle.

 

[Dave_in_ABQ]

I like the stone you have spec'd for the walls.

One of the decisions I made was not to spec the stove at the absolute minimum clearance. Gives room to work on the stove and if/when the stove is replaced there wont be any issues.

 

[pnnf]

Thank you all so much for the help. This stove is rated for mobile home use and I did have plans for the fresh air intake ( sorry for the wrong terminology earlier in the post). Im starting to think that I got the wrong stove ..... I was trying to get a stove that would fit my budget and my space. 12" from the rear wall with this size stove will put the stove and especially the front of the hearth 28" into the walkway to the kitchen. Maybe I could make a two piece hearth that would allow me to take the front (front edge of stove to front edge of hearth) piece off during non use months, reducing the obstruction by 22", But this would still leave the stove in the walkway about 8".

Maybe i should double check before posting but I seem to remember smaller stoves like the dwarf 5k and squirrel being mobile home rated. If they are, the smaller footprint would allow me to get the larger clearances since they are much smaller.

The stove will only be used for emergencies. I need the furnace to run so the heat ducts keep the water pipes from freezing in the belly. I had a buddy who ran his stove in a mobile home. The furnace didn't come on and his pipes froze. If the power goes out and I cant run the furnace then i can leave the water running a bit and close all the secondary interior doors leaving only the living space to heat. This would be about 500 sq/ft, if I leave the bathroom doors open and a bedroom leading to another bathroom then it'll be about 800 sq/ft. I stopped looking at smaller stoves because I liked the larger stove top surface on the U.S. stove, i could cook on it if needed but given the space, size of stove and clearances and not to mention my inexperience I think should have gone for the smaller stove.

Ill likely take this stove back, retrieve my money and save to get a smaller stove. Funny how less metal costs more. what are you guys thoughts on the smaller stoves? I probably wont get an all night burner but Im thinking I should get tighter clearances unless they burn just as hot. I dont know , I know even less about the small stoves Id like to not spend more than 1500 for the stove. Most of the ones my eye goes to are 2500 and up SMH. What are your thoughts? What advise do you have and thanks again for all the help. I think this will be a fun project if I can ever find the right stove.

John~

 

[pnnf]

I just found a Hi Flame HF-905U. I dont think this is in production any more but clearances are 10" to side wall and 7" to back wall with double wall pipe. Then i saw were it states not for use in a mobile home. #$%^ I searched and could not find a fresh air intake for this stove. Is that what makes a stove approved or not for a mobile homes? Because the home is so tight? This stove seems to fit the bill except for the fresh air intake.... Do you guys know of a stove(s) like this with a fresh air intake for mobile home use?

 

[pnnf]

Okay guys I'm back. I've been doing some more looking and I found a Vista classic Le that I like. if I get the stripped-down version with no paint it shouldn't be too far out of my price range. Going by the manual it says for double wall pipe and no wall protection there is a 8-inch clearance requirement for the sides and back. With the size of the stove being a little bit smaller than what I currently have I think it may work. The manual also states that if wall protection is used clearances can be reduced. I'm going to give this a little more research and maybe call to see if anyone has it in stock but I was wondering what you guys think of the Vista classic. Is it a good stove?

 

[pnnf]

What is the attic height from the ceiling to the underside of the roof?

I'm not sure but it looks like it will be about 10" give or take

 

[pnnf]

Q1: The minimum distance with a proper wall shield is 12" unless the manual states a lower, tested clearance
Q2: Clearance of 2" to rockface is ok, but see answer to Q1.
Q3: Good question. It would be great if manuals included this info, but US Stove does not acknowledge wall shielding in the manual other than the hint from the "safety dept". I generally like it to meet or exceed the hearth width/length requirement and a foot above the flue collar.
Q4: Need more info to know whether the kit is the best value or appropriate for the installation. Double-check the kit's flashing angle.

The flashing angle is for 0 - 6 pitch. My roof is a 4.5/12 pitch. So that will work. I just didn't know if the adapter will connect dvl to triple wall. With your suggestion on getting duratech chimney pipe instead, which I will do. Duratech should also work, it's still a duravent product,right?

 

[begreen]

While searching, also look at the True North TN20. This is Pacific Energy's value line. It has conventional tube secondaries instead of the stainless baffle. It's a 2 cu ft stove. Side clearance minimum is 8", rear clearance is 5".

 

[pnnf]

While searching, also look at the True North TN20. This is Pacific Energy's value line. It has conventional tube secondaries instead of the stainless baffle. It's a 2 cu ft stove. Side clearance minimum is 8", rear clearance is 5".

Oh Okay thanks very much. I'll definitely check that true north tn20 out. I was pretty much set on the Vista, which is what I were marked in the other post, but if I can get a 5 inch clearance that would be much better. Thanks again for all the help. I'll let y'all know what I end up doing

 

[begreen]

The flashing angle is for 0 - 6 pitch. My roof is a 4.5/12 pitch. So that will work. I just didn't know if the adapter will connect dvl to triple wall. With your suggestion on getting duratech chimney pipe instead, which I will do. Duratech should also work, it's still a duravent product,right?

Yes, but remember that DuraTech is a different product with a different diameter. Duratech 6" chimney is 8" OD, Duraplus is 10" OD. The Duraplus kit will not work with Duratech except for the DVL adapter.
This is a good website for supplies. They can help you out so that the system parts all match.

Chimney Pipe / Venting Pipe :: Wood/All-Fuel Piping :: 6 inch :: DuraVent DuraTech 6

woodstovepro.com

While on that site, you might also want to look at the Drolet Escape 1500 stove with Heat Shield AC02710 added. That makes this a remarkably close clearance stove according to the manual.

 

[pnnf]

Yes, but remember that DuraTech is a different product with a different diameter. Duratech 6" chimney is 8" OD, Duraplus is 10" OD. The Duraplus kit will not work with Duratech except for the DVL adapter.
This is a good website for supplies. They can help you out so that the system parts all match.

Chimney Pipe / Venting Pipe :: Wood/All-Fuel Piping :: 6 inch :: DuraVent DuraTech 6

woodstovepro.com

While on that site, you might also want to look at the Drolet Escape 1500 stove with Heat Shield AC02710 added. That makes this a remarkably close clearance stove according to the manual.

OK, so heres an update. Due to finances and availability of parts I have decided to keep the stove that I originally purchased. I have moved the install location to a 15' wall so that I can have the 12" clearance from the rear of the stove (not the heat shield) to the drywall (actually 13"). The next closest combustible material will be to the left of the stove about 4' away. I think this will be safer and put me near the peak of the roof so I'll have about 3' of space between ceiling and shingles, which I think is better than 10". Regrettably, I will have to go with the DuraPlus and not the DuraTech and I still have to drive all over the state to multiple stores to get them. My question is about the roof kit Im getting which is the 17" kit from Home Depot but the model is not listed. Im assuming its a Home Depot only model as I cant find any info on it as far a model and compatibility. The picture shows what looks like two ceiling adapters. Will this be all I need to connect the DuraPlus to the telescoping DVL from the stove? Im getting ready to order the appliance adapter for the stove collar. Do i need another ceiling box adapter as well? Thanks again for any help~

 

[begreen]

Sounds like a practical plan. When you get a chance, post a picture of the new location. The adapter adapts the support box to the DVL. It goes on the room side of the support box while the chimney pipe goes on the attic side of the support box.

 

[pnnf]

Hey Begreen, thanks for the reply and all the help OK, so I will not buy a separate support box adapter. I should be able to use the one supplied, that helps. I rechecked the DVL minimum clearance (per the stove manufacturer) which is 16". This made the stove move forward 1". New measurements are: 1) rear shield to wall 13" 2) rear of collar to wall 16 3/16", the collar is 3/16 thick so this gives 3/8" to the back of the DVL making it 16 3/8" to combustible. Do I need to worry about the thickness of the collar adapter on the stove? Im just calculating for the DVL right now. Heres a pic of the new location ... the TV will be moved

 

[pnnf]

Sounds like a practical plan. When you get a chance, post a picture of the new location. The adapter adapts the support box to the DVL. It goes on the room side of the support box while the chimney pipe goes on the attic side of the support box.

well all the kits are now gone ... smh trying track down a 6DP-KBSC its a 23" square kit. My trusses are 24 on center so im going to try and get it before its gone. i wrote a reply but didnt "reply" so i dont know if you got it. there is a pic of the new location.

 

[clancey]

I just know that screen will not be behind your stove..but believe it or not I saw posts where people said that their TV was staying and the only place that they had...like maybe it was over a mantle piece or something--can't remember but I would think electronics need to be in a cooler place...clancey