Woodstove question

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Pitchpine

New Member
Sep 10, 2026
12
NC
I have a prefab wood burning fireplace a tractor and trailer couldn’t haul the wood I’ve burned in this thru the years. Has an 11” inside diameter pipe that is double walled runs straight up 25’ out of the ceiling. Fireplace is rock on 4 sides in middle of room, it’s 6’ x 3’ and there is at least 2’ of space on any side of prefab chimney double walled pipe inside the rock area where pipe runs up. I’m wanting to put a woodstove in front of fireplace sitting on the hearth which is more than big enough for a woodstove stove to sit. The stove I’m wanting to install uses 6” pipe for flu. So question is can I use 6” insulated stainless steel flu pipe inside the 11” to use for my woodstove? So it would be 25’ of insulated flexible 6” flu pipe connecting to a “T” off the back of the stove to connect to pipe. The stove is a Jøtul 602. Is there any reason this wouldn’t work and be safe.
 
As described, this should work out ok, as long as all other requirements for the stove are honored. This include the required hearth protection and proper clearances from combustibles.

Note that this stove is an easy breather. A 25' liner may draft strongly. If so, a key damper may be needed to tame the draft.
 
As described, this should work out ok, as long as all other requirements for the stove are honored. This include the required hearth protection and proper clearances from combustibles.

Note that this stove is an easy breather. A 25' liner may draft strongly. If so, a key damper may be needed to tame the draft.
I also have been told I wouldn’t need the 25’ 6” pipe. From 6” tee off back of stove to 6” pipe maybe 4-6’ long then just let it draft up existing pipe. So the 4-6’ piece is inside the 11” pipe. Put a plate where 6” meets the 11” so you only have a 6” hole there. I thought that option might be best it would be really simple to keep my 11” pipe clean and inspected. Any thoughts on this option?
 
I also have been told I wouldn’t need the 25’ 6” pipe. From 6” tee off back of stove to 6” pipe maybe 4-6’ long then just let it draft up existing pipe. So the 4-6’ piece is inside the 11” pipe. Put a plate where 6” meets the 11” so you only have a 6” hole there. I thought that option might be best it would be really simple to keep my 11” pipe clean and inspected. Any thoughts on this option?
Absolutely not an option. One the pipe is extremely oversized. 2 it is most likely not an ht chimney meant for use with a wood stove. So not rated for high enough temp
 
Yes, get it cleaned for sure, but definitely no to using it for the woodstove chimney. It needs the 6" liner to go all the way up.

Technically, if this is an older Jotul 602, a 5" liner is acceptable. The factory flue collar is 125mm.
 
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Absolutely not an option. One the pipe is extremely oversized. 2 it is most likely not an ht chimney meant for use with a wood stove. So not rated for high enough temp
I can agree with that but here is what gets me with the temps. Wood fire in a fireplace and I burn black locust is around 1400degrees. This small woodstove from what I’ve seen is 650 degree tops. This Jotul 602 double burns so it’s very efficient so are you saying the exhaust from the woodstove would be greater than 1400degrees?
 
I can agree with that but here is what gets me with the temps. Wood fire in a fireplace and I burn black locust is around 1400degrees. This small woodstove from what I’ve seen is 650 degree tops. This Jotul 602 double burns so it’s very efficient so are you saying the exhaust from the woodstove would be greater than 1400degrees?
The exhaust from the fireplace isnt 1400 degrees either one it mixes with the massive ammout of dilution air going up the chimney. Even in a chimney fire all of that air in an open fireplace keeps the chimney cool compared to the potential 2100 degrees in a woodstove chimney.
 
Yes, get it cleaned for sure, but definitely no to using it for the woodstove chimney. It needs the 6" liner to go all the way up.

Technically, if this is an older Jotul 602, a 5" liner is acceptable. The factory flue collar is 125mm.
It’s the newer version with the slide vent in front and glass door and I appreciate the help. So just tee off stove to 6” pipe all the way up and I’m assuming insulated pipe?
 
It’s the newer version with the slide vent in front and glass door and I appreciate the help. So just tee off stove to 6” pipe all the way up and I’m assuming insulated pipe?
As long as you can meet all other requirements of the stove and maintain cooling air circulation in the fireplace and chimney yes
 
Do put a damper in the pipe, as otherwise you're going to still be blowing a lot of heat up the chimney due to its high draft.

The other requirements include hearth in front of the loading door of the stove. Often that is an issue when a stove is placed in front of a fireplace. So check that.
 
As long as you can meet all other requirements of the stove and maintain cooling air circulation in the fireplace and chimney yes

Requirements? As far as distances from combustibles and a good hearth those are easily met as well as height to my mantel. What other requirements should I be aware of and look for?
 
By stainless insulated your talking flexible liner and not HT103 stove pipe, correct?
 
Do put a damper in the pipe, as otherwise you're going to still be blowing a lot of heat up the chimney due to its high draft.

The other requirements include hearth in front of the loading door of the stove. Often that is an issue when a stove is placed in front of a fireplace. So check that.

I was thinking I would need a damper. Would this be installed on the single walled t where it goes vertical or where the t first comes out of the stove?
 
Requirements? As far as distances from combustibles and a good hearth those are easily met as well as height to my mantel. What other requirements should I be aware of and look for?
What is behind the masonry surrounding that fireplace? Just because the face is masonry doesn't mean it is noncombustible. Also does your hearth have the required r value if there are combustibles below it?
 
What is behind the masonry surrounding that fireplace? Just because the face is masonry doesn't mean it is noncombustible. Also does your hearth have the required r value if there are combustibles below it?

Concrete board with mortar and stone. Hearth is 1.5” Flagstone with concrete board underneath.
 
Do you have the manual for the stove? That lists the requirements for the hearth and clearances. IIRC, the hearth insulation requirement is something like R=.45. It must extend at least 16" in front of the stove door.
 
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I was thinking I would need a damper. Would this be installed on the single walled t where it goes vertical or where the t first comes out of the stove?
I'd install where you can access/operate it easily and safely near the potentially hot stove.
 
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Concrete board with mortar and stone. Hearth is 1.5” Flagstone with concrete board underneath.
Concrete board over wood studs? And that hearth probably doesn't meet insulation requirements if that is an old jotul.
 
Do you have the manual for the stove? That lists the requirements for the hearth and clearances. IIRC, the hearth insulation requirement is something like R=.45. It must extend at least 16" in front of the stove door.

No clue on insulation and no real way to find out. But considering how much use it’s gotten thru the years I feel it should be sufficient. I grew up on a farm in a community where everyone heated with wood stoves and some of these “requirements” today are almost laughable. I fully understand it’s all about safety, insurance etc. and it is what it is. Given today’s standards I can’t think of a single one that would have met any kind of requirement today and no one ever lost a home to it. I truly appreciate all the help and learning the proper way to do it.
 
No clue on insulation and no real way to find out. But considering how much use it’s gotten thru the years I feel it should be sufficient. I grew up on a farm in a community where everyone heated with wood stoves and some of these “requirements” today are almost laughable. I fully understand it’s all about safety, insurance etc. and it is what it is. Given today’s standards I can’t think of a single one that would have met any kind of requirement today and no one ever lost a home to it. I truly appreciate all the help and learning the proper way to do it.

Do some research on pyrolysis.
 
Do some research on pyrolysis.

I can see that most of that is pretty much common sense approach making sure everything is in proper order. I think the 6” insulated liner with a damper is the only way to go. I may go overkill and add some additional heat shield for good measure and peace of mind.