Thermostat knob slippage

[WASPKFD]

I noticed this the other day that can spin the knob after the bar has stopped?
Is it as simple as tightening it back down at the stop point or is there an ajustment? THANK YOU!!

 

[WASPKFD]

so I just ran it all the way clockwise til it stopped all the way open? and tightened it , but goes all the wat to about 7 oclock to close? is this right?
first picture is where it stopped for open so I tightened it there,, but 2 pic is where it stopped closing it?

 

[Highbeam]

Should point straight down at full clockwise against the stop.

 

[WASPKFD]

Awesome Thank you! that's what I thought but wanted to make sure. So it doesn't matter how far counterclockwise?
Much better heat now that I found the stop lol.. I was just ending at the swoosh but wasn't enough.
So onto charring in the ACTIVE zone.
When down to coals and in active zone DO I char with BYPASS open or closed? Book only gives instructions for INACTIVE ZONE THANX AGAIN.

 

[stoveliker]

If the cat is in the active range, you reload, I'd char with the bypass closed (unless wood with snow on it is loaded... - but you should never do that...)

 

[Highbeam]

Awesome Thank you! that's what I thought but wanted to make sure. So it doesn't matter how far counterclockwise?
Much better heat now that I found the stop lol.. I was just ending at the swoosh but wasn't enough.
So onto charring in the ACTIVE zone.
When down to coals and in active zone DO I char with BYPASS open or closed? Book only gives instructions for INACTIVE ZONE THANX AGAIN.

It doesn’t matter how far ccw you can turn it but it will go much more than the bottom of the swoosh. No reason to ever crank it ccw beyond the swoosh minimum.

After reloading with an active cat I let the new load burn a couple of minutes with the bypass open before closing the bypass. I don’t think it’s important though, just trying to reduce the thermal shock by sending cold smoke and room air into a hot cat. Those couple of minutes might at least flush out the cold room air from the firebox.

 

[stoveliker]

I always think that going below the minimum might (eventually) mess with the bimetal; you're essentially tensioning it if the air flapper is already closed. Going A little below that is not bad (that's what happens when one dials down a hot stove), but going far below that (below the minimum) serves no purpose and only could, possibly, affect the bimetal.

 

[WASPKFD]

HEY THANX GUYS fixed the dial and now burning and heating like a champ THANK YOU!!

 

[Ashful]

I always think that going below the minimum might (eventually) mess with the bimetal; you're essentially tensioning it if the air flapper is already closed. Going A little below that is not bad (that's what happens when one dials down a hot stove), but going far below that (below the minimum) serves no purpose and only could, possibly, affect the bimetal.

Interesting point, never heard anyone mention that before, but I can see why it seems like it could be an issue. I’ve seen them apart, and there are likely enough turns on that coil that you’re nowhere near exceeding the elastic region of the curve, and I guess it would have been easy enough for BK to introduce a second stop if it were really an issue.

To the OP, note where you hear the flapper close on a cold stove. That’s the lower limit of operation, there’s never going to be any point in turning down behind this point, as that’s where the flapper is dead-shut for the entire burn cycle.

I also marked thru experimentation the 12 and 24 hour points on my dial. Very useful for nailing my usually desired 12 and 24 hour burns, and pretty good for estimating anything in-between.