This seems like a waste... but I'll ask anyways

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mol1jb

Feeling the Heat
Jan 8, 2014
379
Central IL
Here is my setup. The house we live in has a double masonry chimney. One goes to the main floor and the other to the walk out basement. The one that goes to the walk out basement goes straight down. That one I have lined and hooked up to my NC30. The fireplace on the main level is good sized.

We all know heating from the basement isn't ideal. I would love to have 2 stoves in the house, but my issue is lining the main floor chimney. The chimney that comes to the main floor is adjoined to the one that runs to the basement. I'll describe the interior layout of the main floor chimney the best I can. From the fireplace smoke shelf, the chimney goes up at 45* angle of rough brick, not lined with terracotta or anything. Once the 45* joins up with the basement chimney, it goes straight up with lined terracotta.

I don't know if anyone has ever seen a fireplace setup like this but when I was initially investigating, I thought "ya right, this would be a nightmare to try to line." And I'm sure it would. And to cap it all off, we are only staying in this house for probably 3-5 more years so I doubt the investment and work would be worth it. So unless someone has seen this kind of install and thinks it wouldn't be too bad, I'm going to stick with my basement wood heat only and make that work a few more years.

Thanks for any imput
 
If the throat is large enough a 6" liner may go down it. What is the ID of the terracotta liner on the fireplace chimney? What is the throat size of the transition above the smoke shelf?
 
Does the fire place have its own flue? if so you should be able to do it
 
The terracotta I believe is 8x8 on the straight run. On the transition above the smoke shelf, it looks to be even larger than the terracotta. The only part that really worries me is the transition run of the chimney between the smoke shelf and straight part of the chimney. I'll take a picture of that and post it in a bit.
 
So are you saying the fire place and the basement flue share an 8x8 flue?
 
8"x8" ID should clear a 6" liner. It might be easier to pull from bottom up. Not sure on that one though. If the chimney is tall enough (2 story) consider a 5.5" liner.
 
So are you saying the fire place and the basement flue share an 8x8 flue?

The house we live in has a double masonry chimney. One goes to the main floor and the other to the walk out basement. The one that goes to the walk out basement goes straight down.
 
Ok thanks bg what size is the fireplace flue?
 
8"x8" ID should clear a 6" liner. It might be easier to pull from bottom up. Not sure on that one though. If the chimney is tall enough (2 story) consider a 5.5" liner.

No the length is only at maximum 15 feet.

Here is the 45* run above the smoke shelf. At the end of this, which we can't quite see, there is the straight run of 8in terracotta. Just so many bricks to get snagged on it makes me nervous.
[Hearth.com] This seems like a waste... but I'll ask anyways
 
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Are you sure it is 8x8 liner on the fireplace side? I can see that for a furnace in the a basement but it's a bit small for an open fireplace. With two people I think you'll be able to work a 5.5" insulated liner past the corbelled brick.
 
th opening there is much bigger than 8" that doesn't look bad at all to get through lots of room Personally id pull it from the bottom with a piece of sheet metal between the liner and that brick.
 
Are you sure it is 8x8 liner on the fireplace side? I can see that for a furnace in the a basement but it's a bit small for an open fireplace. With two people I think you'll be able to work a 5.5" insulated liner past the corbelled brick.

If I had to guess the 45* would be 10-12in wide.
 
I would not give it a second though personally but I have done hundreds of these and yours doesnt look to bad. but if i was doing it and it is infact 8x8 i would break out those old liners so it could be insulated
 
I really dont see that it will be that much trouble
 
A pulling cone will help keep from getting snapped on the bricks.
 
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A pulling cone will help keep from getting snapped on the bricks.

Id still use sheet metal especially if it is light wall i have seen them get torn on rough edges like that. But yeah definitely a pulling cone to
 
Id still use sheet metal especially if it is light wall i have seen them get torn on rough edges like that. But yeah definitely a pulling cone to
Yeah, but unless you line the whole stack with sheet metal, there is still the entire run of jagged bricks to snag and possibly tear on. Especially if he is going to insulate. Might be better off using flex at the bottom and rigid double wall from the 45 to the top.
 
Yeah, but unless you line the whole stack with sheet metal, there is still the entire run of jagged bricks to snag and possibly tear on

Not from what i can see to me it just looks like a rough smoke chamber
 
Ah, I think I had my orientation backwards.
 
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