Through the wall chimney options

[Mainehomestead]

Good morning,

I am looking to install a little wood stove from Northwoods Fabrication in our shed (10x16). It won't be a permanent installation, probably only for a year or so. I wanted to run the chimney pipe through the roof but we have lofts on either end and I don't want to run a pipe through the loft. So I am thinking the best option is going out through the wall. Perusing YouTube, there are so many different methods out, not necessarily the right methods, though.

I am curious about this method for wood stove chimney installation (starts at 21:28)



He's using single wall pipe on the outside, which based on my reading isn't recommended.

I am wondering if it's okay to use his idea with the diy flashing on either side of the wall and either running a double or triple insulated pipe through that. I'd also like to add a clean out T. That would have to be double insulated as well correct? The rest of the outside pipe will be double insulated. Would it just be wiser to bite the bullet and buy a through the wall chimney kit from a big box store?

Sorry for these basic questions. I just want to do what's safest! Appreciate any help!

 

[begreen]

There are lots of ways to vent a stove, but this site focuses on how to do it safely and to code. Temporary installs frequently have a way of becoming semi-permanent and thus riskier.

A short chimney can present problems for a modern stove due to a weak draft. Adding 90º turns in the flue path decreases draft making the situation worse. Would it be possible to run the chimney straight up in front of the loft? What stove will be used for this install?

 

[begreen]

The stove in the video around 15:30 is basically unregulated and sending a lot of heat up the chimney. Note that the stove pipe is glowing red above the flue collar.

As to the cabin install, well, it's good that he used class A chimney pipe to go through the wall. He is incorrect about the pitch of that class A pipe. It should always head uphill toward the chimney cap by at about 1/4" per foot. The way he has installed it will slow draft and help creosote accumulate at the elbow. Stovepipe is not permitted for use outdoors or outside of the room envelope. Even then, it doesn't look like the clearance requirement of 18" to combustibles is followed. He also installed the stovepipe upside down. This is an invitation for creosote drips down the sides of the pipe. The stove is a simple unregulated stove so it will be less draft-fussy with this basic system. Additionally, he has ignored clearance requirements completely. The flimsy shield does not make it right.

Overall, the cabin in the video does not look like a 1-2 yr installation and I suspect he will be making modifications to the flue system once it goes through a few seasons and looks like crap. This is an example of a little knowledge being potentially dangerous. Be radical doesn't mean be unsafe.

 

[neverstop]

Good morning,

I am looking to install a little wood stove from Northwoods Fabrication in our shed (10x16). It won't be a permanent installation, probably only for a year or so. I wanted to run the chimney pipe through the roof but we have lofts on either end and I don't want to run a pipe through the loft. So I am thinking the best option is going out through the wall. Perusing YouTube, there are so many different methods out, not necessarily the right methods, though.

I am curious about this method for wood stove chimney installation (starts at 21:28)



He's using single wall pipe on the outside, which based on my reading isn't recommended.

I am wondering if it's okay to use his idea with the diy flashing on either side of the wall and either running a double or triple insulated pipe through that. I'd also like to add a clean out T. That would have to be double insulated as well correct? The rest of the outside pipe will be double insulated. Would it just be wiser to bite the bullet and buy a through the wall chimney kit from a big box store?

Sorry for these basic questions. I just want to do what's safest! Appreciate any help!

Class A chimney and their associated components (tee, elbows) are what you'll need for external pipe.

As someone who has updated a through the wall chimney installation for a modern stove; if I were given a chance to re-do the installation I would just go top-exit. Through the wall inevitably increases the minimum required chimney height due to restrictive chimney components reducing draft (elbows, tees, horizontal runs), you'll need more class-A chimney compared to a top exit (more expensive). But that is my biased opinion.

I looked at the stove's website you linked to. I couldn't find chimney height requirements, but it does say that the stove requires 36" of clearance on all sides to combustibles without heat shielding.

 

[Mainehomestead]

This is the stove: https://www.northwoodsfab.com/product-page/the-woodsman-stove

I will explore the option of running the pipe through the roof. I will have to figure out good placement because it's a gambrel style roof. I will have to run it through the upper part of the roof because running it on the shear section will put the pipe too close to the wall. I am planning on putting heat shielding around the stove but don't really want to have to run it all the way up the wall and instead maintain the 18in for the pipe. I was just hoping to avoid having the stove be kind of in the middle of the shed.

 

[begreen]

Double-wall stove pipe may help with the clearances. It needs 6" clearance instead of the 18" that single-wall requires. The NF stove's clearances can only be reduced to 12" with proper wall shielding.

 

[bholler]

You did read the manual where it says this stove is not certified for use in a living space right?

 

[Mainehomestead]

Hey @bholler. It's going in our shed, we won't be living in there. Also will be installing carbon monoxide/smoke detectors.

 

[bholler]

Hey @bholler. It's going in our shed, we won't be living in there. Also will be installing carbon monoxide/smoke detectors.

Ok sorry I missed that.