Tile over brick fireplace, Chimney liner and jotul f-100 install

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onesojourner

onesojourner

Member
Hearth Supporter
Oct 14, 2008
119
Springfield, MO
Here is a quick update on my project. There are more details on the blog though. We are giving the fire place a face lift and extending the hearth. We are going to be adding a jotul f100 nordic in front and then we will run a stainless steel liner up the the chimney.

Before Pic:
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll311/onesojourner/IMG_5464.jpg


Paint Getting stripped:
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll311/onesojourner/IMG_5565.jpg


Paint is all stripped and there is dust on everything. Hardibacker is cut to size and fitted:
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll311/onesojourner/IMG_5566.jpg


Hardibacker installed:
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll311/onesojourner/IMG_5577.jpg


40 sq ft of slate tile ($75 total) being cleaned before they are installed.
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll311/onesojourner/IMG_5576.jpg

I hope to start tiling tonight.
 
Looks like a fun project. Why clean the tile before the job starts??
 
Looks like a good start. Can you explain a few things to me though?

What did you put over the brick after stripping and why?

Can I assume that the F100 only requires a non-combustible material hearth and that's why you laid the hardibacker right over the wood?

And in laying the hardibacker, did you "butter" the back of it/or the brick and wood on the floor so that there are uneven spots to crack later?

What it the edging you have going on around the backer board?

And lastly a suggestion. I used the same slate tiles on my third floor bathroom. If you've not used slate before make sure that you wet the backs with water as you're laying them because dry slate will suck the moisture out of the thinset. AND, before you grout, make certain you apply at least two coats of sealer. It will keep the grout from sticking to the face of the tiles and make clean up a LOT easier.

Looks great so far.
Cheers!
 
The tile was really dusty. So we just rinsed it off.

I spread thinset over the brick to fill some of the voids. This is probably not necessary but I mixed to much up so I figured I should do something with it.

From the f100 manual on floor protection: Any noncombustible material with use of the bottom heat shield.

There is a thin layer of thinset underneath the hardibacker.

I am not sure what I will do for trim yet. I will tackle that when I get there.

Are you saying the tile will dry faster than other tile? played with some tonight and had no issues with using the tile dry.
 
I'm saying that slate absorbs water and the thinset needs to stay "wet" for a while to cure properly. If you just put the dry slate tiles onto the thinset, you run a greater risk of them popping off later on. You will get a much stronger bond if you run a damp sponge over the back of each tile just before you place it in the thinset.
 
It's looking really good so far! Hey, another suggestion with the slate:

If you have enough extra or if you need to buy a few more, I would keep some in spares in case you crack or chip any of these over time. The slate is soft and fireplace tools or dropped wood will do a number on these. Perhaps you might consider putting a hearth rug right in front of the stove to act as a buffer.

Again, looks really good.
 
Its a real nice look. Definitely worth the time. Once it's grouted it'll look even nicer. Whats going on with cutting the slate? You mentioned that it's a pain
 
The little hoss is gonna look great in that fireplace. It has a great view of the fire for a stove that small. When I had mine in the basement office I had it aimed at my desk and it warmed me from the heat through the glass long before it could heat the room.
 
Something I don't think I have mentioned. Plan for installing the block-off plate even with the lintel at the front of the fireplace. And then slope it slightly to the back. With a free stander installed in a fireplace this causes the heat rising off of the stove to roll out into the room. And sets up convection air flow under then behind and up and over the top of the stove and back out into the room.
 
onesojourner said:
From the f100 manual on floor protection: Any noncombustible material with use of the bottom heat shield.
.
Click to expand...
in my experience, few modern stoves get the floor hot at all
any woodstove will require 3/8" minumum thickness floor protection unless specific r value is called for. but more is always beter imo
sounds like you got that more than covered...
 
BrotherBart said:
Something I don't think I have mentioned. Plan for installing the block-off plate even with the lintel at the front of the fireplace. And then slope it slightly to the back. With a free stander installed in a fireplace this causes the heat rising off of the stove to roll out into the room. And sets up convection air flow under then behind and up and over the top of the stove and back out into the room.
Click to expand...


I was planning on installing a block off plate but I had just planned on doing something that would cover the damper hole real good. So you think I should get a bigger piece of sheet metal and make it slot up from the back of the fire place all the way to the front? Do you have any pictures of this kind of set up?


we got the tile just about finished up last night. we have 2 small pieces on the left front to do then we just have the sides, and that should be pretty quick.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll311/onesojourner/IMG_5644.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll311/onesojourner/IMG_5643.jpg

I should have the stove unloaded and unboxed tonight too.
 
That looks great. You're going to love having that nice large hearth space around the stove. I wish I could enlarge mine from its minimum to catch runaway embers.
 
Alright all the tile is done and so is the grout finally. I had to go out of town for a week so I am just getting to the pics. Next up is to get all the chimney stuff figured and bough/ordered and then trim around the hearth and I can stick a fork in this project. then it will be back to scrounging dry wood for the rest of the winter.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll311/onesojourner/IMG_5689.jpg
 
that looks great! nice self install!
 
That is nice looking. Great job.
 
Here is my redneck Chimney extension. This is on the less traveled side of the house so it wont bee seen much. I still have to screw it and seal it but its pretty much done other than that. I had some return air ductwork laying around so its getting rejobbed. From my damper opening to the top of the chimney is only 134 inches. This stove is supposed to have at least 168 . It will be about 6 inches over that now.

I also ordered my liner kit and insulation from rockford. I was torn between this and picking it up locally. I decided I would just order it and be done with it. Total was $685. I am hoping they ship fast. I need to get it done next week


http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll311/onesojourner/IMG_5690.jpg
 
That looks really, really nice !!

Your inspiring me to get my redo completed :)
 
You will get the liner fast. Brian does like everybody else and orders it from Olympia Chimney Supply that has warehouses around the country. They ship the day they get the order. When I order stuff from them it arrives the next day.
 
It all looks great, and I'm in no way trying to be a wet blanket but I've always heard that 15 feet of chimney was the realistic minimum for a chimney on a 6" flue. Is that not right?
I'd hate for you to have draft problems after all that hard work.
Anyone?
 
Planeweird said:
It all looks great, and I'm in no way trying to be a wet blanket but I've always heard that 15 feet of chimney was the realistic minimum for a chimney on a 6" flue. Is that not right?
I'd hate for you to have draft problems after all that hard work.
Anyone?
Click to expand...

The manual for this stove states 14ft. I will be about 6 inches over that from the damper. The insulation will help with the draft too.
 
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