Made in the USA? Shipping that thing would probably cost $60-70! Northern Hydraulics is a HUGE ripoff on shipping.
Timber/Log Jack - any good?
- Thread starter Jerry_NJ
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
It's one of their popular items, so if you subscribe to their email advertisement, they reduce the price and/or offer free shipping on it every so often.
No free shipping to AK. I had to order an item a few years ago that I could only find through them. 15lb box was close to 100$ in shipping.
MrWhoopee
Minister of Fire
For logs like you are describing, I layout the cuts the full length of the log with my chalk marker,
![[Hearth.com] Timber/Log Jack - any good?](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/100/100291-d26c8633517bb8051c6ed4aecf4e5670.jpg?hash=xxg-lfqfy6 "[Hearth.com] Timber/Log Jack - any good?")
![[Hearth.com] Timber/Log Jack - any good?](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/100/100293-ae689528aabb37c5d212dd69e1eb1da1.jpg?hash=Y0NdpNb_bg "[Hearth.com] Timber/Log Jack - any good?")
then grab the saw and make all of the cuts, stopping when the kerf just starts to close up. Then I roll the log with my Northern Tool timberjack with solid fiberglass handle and complete the cuts. With the cuts this far down, I can usually insert the nose of the bar into the existing cut instead of trying to line it up by eye. I haven't used my timberjack as a stand, just as a cant hook. Too much work to keep repositioning after a couple of cuts.
then grab the saw and make all of the cuts, stopping when the kerf just starts to close up. Then I roll the log with my Northern Tool timberjack with solid fiberglass handle and complete the cuts. With the cuts this far down, I can usually insert the nose of the bar into the existing cut instead of trying to line it up by eye. I haven't used my timberjack as a stand, just as a cant hook. Too much work to keep repositioning after a couple of cuts.
One can pound the hook part (not really sure what they call it) of a peavey, timberjack or cant hook into the log with a small sledge. This will, of course, provide a much better grip and reduce a lot of the falling etc. I actually learned this on a really large chestnut oak that we pounded in the hooks on 2 peaveys to roll it onto a tractors forks (trailer-able lengths).
- Status
Similar threads
