Too much draft PACIFIC ENERGY SUMMIT overfire?

[2000SI-G]

3 nights ago,started a fire in the summit as usual.Everything seem to be normal.Loaded the stove before going

to bed,but something told me to stay up and watch the fire burn.The temp on the flu thermometer was around

900.Once the stove was filled the fire kept getting hotter and hotter.I know it was windy that night but this is the

first time something like that happens to me.The double wall thermometer I installed was showing 1400.I could

not control the fire .It didn't want to slow down.3 years with this stove and never had a issue even with those

windy winter night.I have tried another fire last night and the night before and everything seem to be normal.

I'm kinda scared now to refill and go to bed.

 

[oconnor]

If I read your post right, your flue was at 900 when you reloaded. If so, you should have let it cool more before the reload to avoid the overfire. If I reload my insert when hot, it can run away very quickly. Alternately, if the stove is warmer than usual, you will need to damp it down earlier because of the already established draft. Cut the air back enough that you lose the flame, then up just until it comes back, and you should be able to maintain the temp instead of increasing it.

I've had the same happen with the night time reload. I've learned to let my stove get further into the coaling phase of the fire before I add fuel.

 

[BrotherBart]

For sure. I don't know if you monitor stove top temps but I have said here many times before that if you load a non-cat on a hot coal bed and with a stove top temp over 350 or 400 it is gonna be real interesting around your house for an hour or so. And clean underwear will be required.

Also after you burn down that coal bed, drag the coals to the front and load with the front of the splits on top of the coal bed and let the burn progress. A load on top of a spread, hot coal bed is gonna go thermonuclear.

 

[Hogwildz]

All good point above.
Reload the stove below 300 degrees on a nice bed of coals. Dragging forward works for many, I level the bed out on the entire floor of the insert.
Load large splits and top off with mediums & smalls.
Load tight.
Don't load on an already established fire.
If you do load on a big bed of coals and the temp is over 300, cut the air back sooner. And it will climb on it's own up to peak & then cruising temp.

My routine:
200ish degree stove sometimes lower if I been on the road all day.
Full packed load, larges on bottom (3-4) mediums & smalls to top off with.
Usually around 7-8 splits all together.
I set the kitchen oven timer for 15 minutes.
Check stove when timer goes off, and if at 300 or just above, cut air back 1/2 way.
Set timer for another 10 minutes.
Cut air all the way back between 400 & 500.
Let it do it's thing.
Rinse, reload and run cycle again in 12 hours.
Usually peaks around 700-750, and level off to 600-650 range.

 

[theonlyzarathu]

I used to have Riteway 37 side draft, which was very susceptible to taking off. I'm very careful; a red pipe is something I don't ever want to have to worry about again. I'd rather have a 60 degree house in the morning than have to worry about a take off. But if you let your pipe get up to 900 degrees(which is where my thermo is placed) you are losing an enormous amount of heat up the chimney that could be in your house. As long as the pipe at the top of the stove is burning at 475-500, that enough for me. With the fan running, I'm getting plenty of heat into the house. And after three years of doing that, the last time the stove pipe guy came(the guy who installed the SS chimney pipe) said I didn't need to get it done more than once every two years. Of course I'll have it done every year, but clearly buring at 475 - 500 tops is not producing creosote in the chimney.

I never fill it up at night when I'm not there. I get the house temps up to the mid 70's before bed and throw in a couple of logs for the night, when the stack temps are down. After that, I still have enough coals to get it going again 9 hours later.

 

[2000SI-G]

Happen again.The salesman told me to try another door gasket but no luck.3rd time and I'm getting nervous.Could it be the ebt not working properly?I have loaded the summit at around 250 300f(double wall thermometer)I have bought this stove in march of 2012 and never had a issue before.Also could anyone take a picture of the "air control" on their summit ?Just want to check something with mine.

thanks

 

[SKIN052]

The Air control? It's just a lever, right is low "L" and left is high or "Start". Rather simple. Most often mine sits to the right of the "L" unless it is on a start up or it is real cold out. Then I push it just to the left of the "L"

 

[begreen]

If you want to find out if this is the EBT, remove the ashpan and locate the EBT intake. This is about a 1" hole front and center on a rectangular box on the Summit A. Take a short piece of aluminum tape and tape over this hole. That will take the EBT out of the picture.If this ends up not being the issue, remove the tape.

Tell us a bit about the wood you are burning. What species wood, how thick are the splits, how dry, etc.? Also, how tall is the flue system on the stove?

 

[2000SI-G]

ok ,ill start with the tape tonight and will see.

thanks

Marc

 

[begreen]

Before altering the stove, tell us a bit about the wood you are burning. What species wood, how thick are the splits, how dry, etc.? Also, how tall is the flue system on the stove?

 

[2000SI-G]

a bit of oak,
cherry wood
and mostly mapleThe wood 2-3 years old .multiple size split .When this happens,I reload on the bed of coal and the thermometer is in the 250-300f zone.I wait a bit til it goes up to around 850 then shut the air control and the secondary starts(blueish flame).It seem to idle there but all of a sudden it going up and up .Last night 1300f.Pretty sure its too high. I'm using a SBI double wall thermometer

 

[2000SI-G]

not the best drawing but give you a idea

 

[begreen]

If those are stove top temps, you are shutting down the air control much too late. That is a waste of wood and heat up the flue. 850F stovetop is also stressing out the stove. I do it more by eye, but on a reload I can be turning down the air at 450-500F stove top temp.

Wait, I reread and see now that these are flue temps, right? Try closing down the air earlier with a flue temp of 600F and see how that works.

How tall is the chimney on this stove, (not the connecting stove pipe).?

 

[madison]

If you have used the ash chute, check that it is completely closed.

 

[2000SI-G]

no there not stove top temps.I will get one tomorrow night for sure and try to figure out what I'm doing wrong this year.For the height is 19'.The only thing I don't get is that I didnt have any issues last year.The SBI thermometer was installed this fall and I'm starting to thing that the thermometer is running my stove.I should take this tool for reference only

 

[2000SI-G]

the ash chute is completely closed.Theres a tiny bit of air leaking thru as I can see the fire burning a bit more where the chute is located

 

[begreen]

OK, I reread the thread and saw they are flue temps. Try closing the air down earlier on a reload. More like at 600F flue temps. Your flue is not extraordinarily tall so no problem there. Definitely let your eyes be your primary guide. Turn down the air as soon as the wood starts getting fulling involved in fire. This will be much lower than 850F.

The next time you clean the stove get the debris that is preventing the ash chute from closing tight out. That door needs to close flush and tight to the stove body. For now, just fill the ash hole with ash to reduce leakage. (FWIW I never use the ash pan system on this stove.)

 

[madison]

the ash chute is completely closed.Theres a tiny bit of air leaking thru as I can see the fire burning a bit more where the chute is located

depending on the draft, and air lever position, a bunch of air can leak at the ash chute. whenever you get the chance and are down there checking the EBT flap valve, I would take the opportunity to check and seal the ash chute - and never use it again. Also check the bolts on the bottom of the stove that hold the ash chute etc.

 

[begreen]

The SBI thermometer was installed this fall and I'm starting to thing that the thermometer is running my stove.I should take this tool for reference only

Bingo. Based on what we know so far I don't think this is a draft issue. A 19ft chimney with 2 90's isn't going to overdraft. The stove needs to be turned down much sooner after a reload and that ash trap door needs to close tightly.

 

[2000SI-G]

I have been reading alot on this forum today and the more I read the more I learn.Like I have mentionned in the previous post,the thermostat was installed this year and starting to think that darn thing is controlling me.You guys are great help.The weather got alot warmer here in Eastern Quebec today so didnt have to touch the summit so far .I will remove the ashes and inspect a few thing before i light it up again tonight.I will let you know how it goes.And btw excuse my english ,trying to do the best I can..lol

Marc

 

[begreen]

You're doing great Marc. I think the stove is fine and should be much more predictable when the air is turned down sooner.

 

[2000SI-G]

I shut it down at around 600f and its been idling at 800 for the last 1/2 hour.

Marc

 

[bluedogz]

I'd like to see the Hogwildz/BBart cage match-

Drag the coals front vs. spread 'em and go.

 

[2000SI-G]

If you want to find out if this is the EBT, remove the ashpan and locate the EBT intake. This is about a 1" hole front and center on a rectangular box on the Summit A. Take a short piece of aluminum tape and tape over this hole. That will take the EBT out of the picture.If this ends up not being the issue, remove the tape.

Tell us a bit about the wood you are burning. What species wood, how thick are the splits, how dry, etc.? Also, how tall is the flue system on the stove?

this hole here youre talking about?

 

[begreen]

Yes. The EBT is closed in those photos.