Tractor size?

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The bucket position flat on the ground only left about 2 inches travel on the rods. I tried this with the bucket's blade on the ground or the face/opening toward the ground. This position gives more travel, about 8 inches on my loader and permits the removal of the wheel, rather than getting a jack.- don't forget the blocking or the jack stand. BUT, more importantly, if you get the tractor stuck or the front end in a bind or sunk in mud, it permits planking the soil's surface below the tire. And, also permits the operator to use the bucket's edge (in a curling motion) to push the rear of the tractor backwards onto a more solid ground or a surface with more traction- reducing the chances of needing a pull or a wrecker service.
I think the limitations you observed with that machine were unique to that one model, and not a good representation of "hydro vs. manual transmission" tractor comparison. I've seen many hydro machines that have no problem lifting the front end off the ground. Also, I wouldn't consider the possibility that I might have to increase engine RPM X% above idle to pick the front end of the machine up off the ground as any relevant factor in comparing tractors, it just wouldn't factor in to how I use the machine on a daily basis. I frequently find myself increasing engine RPM for the sake of hydraulic speed, but almost never for the sake of hydraulic force, I just hate waiting for a bucket to curl.
 
The bucket position flat on the ground only left about 2 inches travel on the rods. I tried this with the bucket's blade on the ground or the face/opening toward the ground. This position gives more travel, about 8 inches on my loader and permits the removal of the wheel, rather than getting a jack.- don't forget the blocking or the jack stand. BUT, more importantly, if you get the tractor stuck or the front end in a bind or sunk in mud, it permits planking the soil's surface below the tire. And, also permits the operator to use the bucket's edge (in a curling motion) to push the rear of the tractor backwards onto a more solid ground or a surface with more traction- reducing the chances of needing a pull or a wrecker service.

Definitely curious. Were you holding the brakes by chance? I could believe not having enough curl force to lift the tractor with the bucket edge down into the ground like that and the brakes on. I've used both my bucket to help push back...and my backhoe to drag me out.....Neither has been a problem. Anyway.....

I'd like to add that the hydraulic performance of the loader is different and separate issue from the performance of the hydrostatic transmission....A hydro transmission should sacrifice less than 2 hp at the PTO. A hydrostatic transmission is far superior for loader work or anything requiring you to change direction of travel a lot. If you don't need to change forward/reverse a lot, then a gear tractor is just fine, brush hogging large fields for example.
 
And, to be fair to me, there is only so much testing a dealer will permit a stranger to make with machines that have .2 hours on them
Definitely curious. Were you holding the brakes by chance? I could believe not having enough curl force to lift the tractor with the bucket edge down into the ground like that and the brakes on. I've used both my bucket to help push back...and my backhoe to drag me out.....Neither has been a problem. Anyway.....

I'd like to add that the hydraulic performance of the loader is different and separate issue from the performance of the hydrostatic transmission....A hydro transmission should sacrifice less than 2 hp at the PTO. A hydrostatic transmission is far superior for loader work or anything requiring you to change direction of travel a lot. If you don't need to change forward/reverse a lot, then a gear tractor is just fine, brush hogging large fields for example.
No I wasn't holding my brakes but it did seem as if the hydro was fighting the lifting. Even then, all gear loaders I have used will drag the rear wheels if the brake was on- my gear loaders did this at idle.