Tractor supply's Grand Teton Collection Targhee Wood Stove

[steveh2112]

Tractor supply's Grand Teton Collection Targhee Wood Stove is $649.99
(broken link removed)
would you recommend this for a 1000sqft house in upstate NY?
is there anything better under $1000?

actually this has great reviews (broken link removed)
and has a bigger firebox or should i go up a bit and get this Englander 32-NC Wood Stove
(broken link removed to https://factorypure.com/products/englands-stove-works-englander-32-nc-wood-stove-new)
for $1099 which seems to be discussed here a lot?

thanks

i was thinking used but can't seem to find anything reasonably modern on FB or CL right now

 

[begreen]

The same stoves are sold under the Master Forge brand sold at Lowes, just under a different labeling. Reviews have been mixed. Th Englander is a better stove, but too large for 1000 sq ft. unless building a big sauna that size. Look at the Drolet Spark, Nano, or Deco for comparison or perhaps a medium sized Century stove. Or spring for a bit more money and get a True North TN20.

 

[steveh2112]

i noticed the Englander is very big for my house but is that a problem? can i not just add less wood or just close the damper a bit. would bigger be better for keeping it going all night? it says it has 14hr burn time compared to 5hrs for Drolet

oh, i just googled it and i guess its not a good idea to get a stove too big for your house, it will not run hot enough to be efficient

thanks for the tip on century stove, this looks nice
(broken link removed to https://factorypure.com/products/century-heating-s250-epa-certified-1-200-sq-ft-wood-stove-on-pedestal-new)
good price, 79% efficiency and 5 year warrantee. i think i'll get that

 

[EatenByLimestone]

The small fire/big stove only works to a certain point. Too small of a fire does not warm the firebox up enough for complete combustion to occur. Wood stoves don’t turn off like a furnace does. Too big of a stove might overheat your place to the point that you don’t run the stove until it’s 20 out.

But stove size is often dependent on factors other than marketing. The home’s insulation and floor plan often dictate the size stove you’ll need.

Regardless of the stove you choose, you’ll need wood that’s under 20% moisture content. Most wood sellers do not sell wood dry enough for a modern stove to run well with. Wood needs time to dry. You may want to put wood up now, while you’re looking for a stove.

 

[steveh2112]

my house is a fixer upper and barely any insulation at all. i'll be fixing that this year but for now, i need something to keep from freezing my behind off. also, i'm limited to what's available in my area for wood, but i guess i can buy a wood moisture content meter for a few bucks to test before i buy

 

[GrumpyDad]

my house is a fixer upper and barely any insulation at all. i'll be fixing that this year but for now, i need something to keep from freezing my behind off. also, i'm limited to what's available in my area for wood, but i guess i can buy a wood moisture content meter for a few bucks to test before i buy

I was told by someone on here, much wiser than me, that you should upsize the stove in sq ft rating by 25% if your house is old and leaky. Single pane windows add another 10%

 

[steveh2112]

i was just reading the use manual for that Century stove and it it says this about supplying outside air
"6.6.2 Conventional HouseThe safest and most reliable supply of combustion air for a wood stove is from the room in whichit is installed. Room air is already preheated so it will not chill the fire, and its availability is notaffected by wind pressures on the house. Contrary to commonly expressed concerns, almostall tightly sealed new houses have enough natural leakage to provide the small amount of airneeded by the stove. The only case in which the wood stove may not have adequate access tocombustion air is if the operation of a powerful exhaust device (such as a kitchen range exhaust)causes the pressure in the house to become negative relative to outdoors."

i'm sure this has been discussed on this forum and i'll take a loo, but this surprised me

 

[begreen]

thanks for the tip on century stove, this looks nice
(broken link removed to https://factorypure.com/products/century-heating-s250-epa-certified-1-200-sq-ft-wood-stove-on-pedestal-new) good price, 79% efficiency and 5 year warrantee. i think i'll get that

Yes, that's the one. It is a sibling of the Drolet Nano and a N/S loader so you will be able to load it to near full capacity with 16-18" wood.

 

[begreen]

i was just reading the use manual for that Century stove and it it says this about supplying outside air
"6.6.2 Conventional HouseThe safest and most reliable supply of combustion air for a wood stove is from the room in whichit is installed. Room air is already preheated so it will not chill the fire, and its availability is notaffected by wind pressures on the house. Contrary to commonly expressed concerns, almostall tightly sealed new houses have enough natural leakage to provide the small amount of airneeded by the stove. The only case in which the wood stove may not have adequate access tocombustion air is if the operation of a powerful exhaust device (such as a kitchen range exhaust)causes the pressure in the house to become negative relative to outdoors."

i'm sure this has been discussed on this forum and i'll take a loo, but this surprised me

The subject of adding an OAK (outside air kit) has been covered many times. There are two schools of thought on this topic. The Canadian school is more cautious, while this side of the border is more pro. The stove location in the house (which floor) can affect the viability and need as well as the house construction. Search on "outside air" or OAK for many threads discussing this topic. FWIW, we don't have an OAK on our 3 cu ft stove that is in a house of 2000 sq ft.

Sweep's Library - Why burn outside air?

Should I burn outside combustion air in my stove or fireplace?

hearth.com

 

[steveh2112]

thanks, my feeling is i don't need any more drafts coming into my house so i'll probably add it. i can always disconnect it if it turns out i'm wrong. i just ordered the Century Heating S250

 

[midwest noobie]

I just bought a new targhee stove and my son and i installed a double ply stainless steel liner 316 ,20ft with ceramic fiber blanket we wrapped the pipe with. No kit. just the blanket, some heating tape, spray adhesive and some steel wire to wrap around the blanket to kep it stable. Im on a very very low income budget.
after burning the new stuff off, i kept the stove going. Im heating with Gren Heat compressed saw dust blocks because every idiot around me swears they are selling seasoned wood but i asked 4 to bring some samples. i split them and the moisture content was 30 on one of the samples. ANYWAY, after dialing it down after getting the temps up, i pushed the airflow almost closed, and the chimney damper about 45 degrees to reduce smoke even more.When the stove is going and i have only 4 of these heat blocks in , after getting some coals and such from the blocks, the stove temps are hovering around 650 to 700, and flue is about 450

do i need to keep the fire low or do i restrict the air flow for fresh air? i installed it in the basement and our house is old and drafty. do i need to put a valve on the fresh air incoming opening to restrict it when its getting too high? did i make a monster by insulating my liner? the brick chimney ,i dont trust and felxible smoothwall was cheaper than triple wall pipe. any suggestions?

 

[midwest noobie]

the stove seems to do good and the gren heat block packs, since 3pm today, only one full pack. one full pack has 20 small squares. the whole pack is about 40 pounds and im currently watching tv while the unit is perculating at about 450 stove pipe flue to chimney and about 600 to 675 on stove temp. I guess its doing ok . after dampering the airflow control and setting the stovepipe damper, you can look inside and see a secondary burn at the burn tubes above. pretty cool,but still concerned about stove temps. anyone have an info on this?My stove is the tractor supply grand teton targhee 2000 sq ft wood stove.I will take pictures of the setup tomorrow and try to post them here

 

[begreen]

To slow down the fire, place the blocks close together with little or no air gap between them.

 

[kborndale]

If you buy that green wood now and stack it, it will be ready to burn for next year. Your experience with wood sellers is quite common. It's pretty rare to find someone selling wood that is ready to burn so you need to season it yourself.

 

[midwest noobie]

Thanks for the reply. i will try to post pictures of my setup. Its not ideal. the chimney had a big hole in the clay liner and brick so ive been filling it in before using cement to seal the holes. to clean it, im going to have son get up on roof and go from top cap. I could leave an access hole for the tee cap and put in a gasketed plate with handles and some tapcons to hold the hinges. the tee snout to stove was barely 18 inches so i angled the pipe alittle with the damper .stove is sitting on 1 inch fire brick due to a leaky basement.Very old cement block. leaks at the slab where the blocks are mortered to it.Had electric heater shut off all evening and went to be about 2:30 am temps in house were 75. it was warm here about 40s .

 

[midwest noobie]

One stupid question. the stove top when running hot doesnt seem like its putting out alot of heat compared to the stove temps. should i remove the heat shrouds arund the stove to maximize the radiation or just leave it alone? I had a barrel stove in my garage and even with the lower temps seems to radiate more heat. Also when loading the heat blocks, since the company doesnt recommend a grill or anything, should i start the fire on top or side? I placed four individual squares into the stove at beinging of fire and had them in a square pattern. the stove after awhile ran up to about 800 and flue to the chimney was about 430 440. So ur saying if i pack them together the temps will stay down normally?

 

[begreen]

Not a stupid question. The stove is supposed to be more convective than radiant like a barrel stove. If a radiant stove is desired, something like the Drolet Austral is a better choice. Removing the side shields will dramatically change the clearance requirements. The stove must then be at least 36" from any combustible. Note that if the basement walls are uninsulated, they are sucking out a lot of the heat to outdoors. This can result in about a 30%+ loss due to wasted heat or about 1 cord out of 3 burned.

From what has been described, the stove is burning fairly well. The blocks will burn slower if there is no air gap between them. Also, try closing down the air more quickly, in increments, but not so much as to put out the flame. Try to turn it down until the flame gets lazy and then wait until the flames regain strength. Repeat as necessary until the air is mostly or fully closed.

 

[midwest noobie]

begreen,,

Thanks for the info. Im heating in a basement and in back of stove is the brick chimney with my new liner and such. On sides i have about 8 ft before there are any combustables. the basement is wide open. the Stove front half you can really feel the heat but the back half i can almost place hand on stove. Weird. Same for Backside. I guess this is what the heat shields are doing . Its approved for mobile home usages too. Been thinking about your post. If i remove the heat shrouds it might act differently too. so i will leave it as is. Not used to a stove where you get it up to temps and then damper it down to burn the smoke. Barrel stove in garage, i practically had to stand on the door to help reduce draft etc. HA.
Also had one of those us stove big boxwood stoves but it seemed it didnt put out theheat and when it did that one had a small gap on bottom of door and if it wasnt covered up the stove would glow cherry red . this new stove is a new education to me. totally opposite of what i was doing before. longest burn was last night i placed 3 of those small squares into the stove about 2am.... woke up this morning and about 8:30am there was chunks of glowing coals in the stove. And the stove was uncomfortable to touch. So i guess its doing well. the convection fans were still blowing.