Triple wall pipe boxed in with no clearance

[ckdeuce]

I just installed a century stove into an triple wall chimney that was installed before I bought the home. The chimney runs through the house and goes through the master bedroom's closet. It is boxed in with painted lamanent wood (1/4"). I'm a bit concern because the wood that is boxing it in get warm. Not hot at all, just warm. Problem is, is runs with less than 1/4" from the wood panels. Should I be worried? I know the pevious owner and they had a fireplace installed throught the same chimney with no issues. Still a bit worried.

 

[jtp10181]

worry about if the pipe bulds up creosote & gets ignited = chimneyfire. then outer pipe gets hotter.

No worry about it now! Most wood burning pipe requires a 2" AIR SPACE clearance all the way around it. Over time combustibles too close to the pipe can dry out lowering their ignition temperature. Eventually it might just burst into flames if the ignition temp gets low enough.

 

[Corie]

Find out who the manufacturer of the pipe is and find out what the clearance to combustibles is. Then, fix the system so that you follow those clearances. Otherwise, you're asking for trouble.

 

[seaken]

Well, fact is, you're doing something that is very dangerous. That old chimney should NOT be used to vent a wood stove. It was used with a fireplace and has different specifications than are required for wood stoves. Wood stoves require Type HT chimney systems. Your old chimney was not meant to be a Type HT (high-temperature) chimney system.

Please stop using your wood stove and install a new Type HT chimney. You may be able to install a retro-fit Type HT liner system, IF the chimney is installed to proper clearance codes, which is already in question.

Your situation illustrates the complexity of this industry. Too many folks take our trade too lightly. I am not shy to tell you that you could burn down your house tomorrow! Don't take chances. If you don't know what you are doing don't install a wood stove by yourself. I'm sorry to be so hard on you and maybe I am angering you. But I am only trying to help. Don't play with fire!

Repeat, for all onlookers: Woodstoves require TYPE HT chimney systems properly installed to manufactures specifications or properly site built to NFPA-211 codes. Please do not use non-Type HT chimneys for wood stoves.

 

[webbie]

The chimney could very well be HT or Class A generic (not a fireplace chimney), but most of us have only seen such chimney with 2" clearances.

So, #1 - stop using the thing until you solve this.
#2 - remove some wood and there will be a label on the chimney itself - this states the model and the clearances.
#3 - if, as we suspect, that chimney is 2" clearance, have an expert (or get the manual and DIY) check out every part of the system - all supports, firestops, flashings, etc.

I don't usually use such language, but this one is a "ticking time bomb".

 

[ckdeuce]

The chimney is a Hart & Cooley, Model D, Cat #8DP30, UL Listed 145A. Min clearance to combustibles 2”. I don't know about HT pipe. I apprecaite the guidence and maybe I was scared straight by the tough talk. So.... Thanks. I will not use the stove until I get some answers. I pulled away the boxed structure around the chimney and found that whoever installed it did not leave 2" clearance when it was cut through the floor. Also there is insulation (fiberglass) in the attic that is touching the pipe. The pipe does get warm to touch. I will cut more clearance. But my main question is..... From what I have read, this model of chimney is only double wall (insulated) I don't see any indication that it is HT. Is this pipe OK for a wood stove? Class A I assume. I don't want to go through the trouble of making the needed clearance if the pipe is not safe to begin with.

Thanks again
Chris

 

[jtp10181]

I believe it should be UL 103HT for use with a wood stove.

 

[seaken]

The chimney is a Hart & Cooley, Model D, Cat #8DP30, UL Listed 145A. Min clearance to combustibles 2”. I don't know about HT pipe. I apprecaite the guidence and maybe I was scared straight by the tough talk. So.... Thanks. I will not use the stove until I get some answers. I pulled away the boxed structure around the chimney and found that whoever installed it did not leave 2" clearance when it was cut through the floor. Also there is insulation (fiberglass) in the attic that is touching the pipe. The pipe does get warm to touch. I will cut more clearance. But my main question is..... From what I have read, this model of chimney is only double wall (insulated) I don't see any indication that it is HT. Is this pipe OK for a wood stove? Class A I assume. I don't want to go through the trouble of making the needed clearance if the pipe is not safe to begin with.

Thanks again
Chris

Can't tell from here, and I don't know the H & C specs. It may be "Class A" (which is a generic term, not specific) but it is probably not Type HT. You may be able to upgrade it to Type HT with a proper re-line. You need a local chimney professional to help. The safe thing to do is replace it with a known Type HT chimney specifically approved for wood stoves.