Triple Wall Pipe

[sgt_a_bomb]

I'm renovating a home. Primary heat source will be wood. There will be a newer (smaller) stove in the great room/kitchen area, and there is an older (much older) behemoth of a stove in the basement which I plan to keep, at least for now. Eventually, I will replace this with something new and efficient. The old behemoth sucks down logs (whole logs) like they are kindling. It has a nice blower on it, and it puts out a lot of heat!

My questions are regarding the big stove in the basement:

1. I tore out the old chimney which was made from concrete blocks. I am planning to put in triple wall pipe. The current stove has an 8" pipe. I wish I could put in 6" since I'm sure the new stove I replace it with down the road will be a 6". Of course, I cannot do this. So... is it OK to put in 8" pipe and then eventually hook up the 6" stove to it?

2. When I look online the price range for tipple wall seems to go from $80 a section up to $200 a section roughly. Why? The majority of my pipe will be completely hidden and not visible from anywhere. I don't care if it is "pretty." Any suggestions?

 

[humpin iron]

not triple wall. Class A all fuel chimney. like most things inlife you get what you pay for do your homework, don't cheap out. Take ALOT of the stuff you read online with a grain of salt.....do your homework

 

[Swedishchef]

I say you'd need to install a class A chimney. I don't know anybody with triple wall stuff. Class A is rates for chimney fires. Not sure about triple wall.

EPA stoves that require 8 inch (there are some) chimneys will work with an 8 inch chimney. Not many that require a 6 inch will work with an 8. You could run into draft issues. Any idea what stove you'd like to get and when?

Andrew

 

[DougA]

If you are replacing your old behemoth with something that generates similar heat, you will probably need 8" pipe. All the big new stoves I know of are 8".

 

[webby3650]

There is nothing wrong with triple wall pipe, it's just less common these days. I personally would go with class A pipe that is double wall, it's a better more modern product. All Class A is good though, it's all tested to the same standards. Some is nicer looking, has a better fit and finish, and/or better accessoiries.

It's very unlikely that you will experience any issues at all with running a 6" stove on an 8" flue. I see it all the time and have ran them this way a lot with no issues. In fact my chimneys are pretty short, the 8" flue draws much better than my 6". I prefer it in my house.

 

[vinny11950]

DuraPlus, which is triple wall, seems like a good product. You have to read the ratings and certifications and then see what your town code requires. Check with insurance company too.

(broken link removed to http://www.duravent.com/Product.aspx?hProduct=2)

"Designed for normal, continuous operation at 1000°F flue gas temperatures, DuraPlus is subjected to rigorous and stringent HT requirements of the UL standard, including one hour at 1400°F, plus three ten minute chimney fire tests at 2100°F."

Applications
DuraPlus Chimney is a triple-wall, all-fuel chimney for use with wood stoves, fireplaces, furnaces, boilers, stoves, ranges, water heaters, or other appliances fueled by wood, oil, coal, or gas.

Materials and Construction
.016" 430 stainless steel outer wall or .018" galvanized steel outer wall. .018" aluminized steel intermediate liner. .16" 430 stainless steel inner liner. insulated layers of ceramic blanket plus ventilated air space. Locks tightly with a precision twist-lock connection.

Clearances
2" clearance to combustibles.

Diameters
6"-8"

Listings
UL Listed to UL 103HT (MH7399).

 

[Rich2343]

There is nothing wrong with triple wall pipe, it's just less common these days. I personally would go with class A pipe that is double wall, it's a better more modern product. All Class A is good though, it's all tested to the same standards. Some is nicer looking, has a better fit and finish, and/or better accessoiries.

It's very unlikely that you will experience any issues at all with running a 6" stove on an 8" flue. I see it all the time and have ran them this way a lot with no issues. In fact my chimneys are pretty short, the 8" flue draws much better than my 6". I prefer it in my house.

How tall is your chimney. Webby3650.? What stove are you burning .?

 

[Swedishchef]

Ok. Let's sort out some things. Stove pipe is different that a chimney. ANything you can not see, that is not visibly attached to a stove, must be class A chimney.

Now in terms of stove pipe there is single wall, double wall.

When you get to the chimney aspect there's double wall and triple wall. In triple wall there are some that have a layer of insulation (like a double wall) and some that do not. From what I understand and know, in Canada, triple wall (without insulation) is not allowed in any installations. The one mentioned by Vinny HAS insulation.

Andrew

 

[bholler]

It's very unlikely that you will experience any issues at all with running a 6" stove on an 8" flue. I see it all the time and have ran them this way a lot with no issues. In fact my chimneys are pretty short, the 8" flue draws much better than my 6". I prefer it in my house.

The size of the flue does not increase or decrease the draft it does change the velocity though a bigger pipe will have the exhaust running through it slower and it will have more time to cool down and leave creosote behind. And yes there is triple wall class a but it has either less insulation or none at all and there for runs at a lower interior temp than regular insulated chimney. But it is just as safe

 

[sgt_a_bomb]

I've attached some pictures of the stove that is currently installed, and also the space where the chimney or stove pipe will be installed.

I will probably keep this stove for a year or two and then replace it with something new. I cannot imagine needing a stove with an 8" pipe to replace this one. Everything I have looked at in the size I'd want, is with a 6" pipe.

The old stove is in the basement, pipe will need to travel up about 1 - 3 feet and needs to travel horizontally about 3 feet before it turns "up" through one floor above, and then a dead space between the upstairs and the roof system.

Sounds like I should be looking at Class A pipe, correct? Can the pipe run truly horizontal for 3', or do I need to take it up at an angle?

Code/inspection/etc is not a concern in this location, just safety and good design.

 

[sgt_a_bomb]

more pics. sorry they are crummy pics...

 

[Swedishchef]

Class A chimney is what you would need.

I do not believe any Class A chimneys are allowed to run horizontal. Your draft will be significantly reduced also. Not to mention: how are you going to clean this part of the stack?

What you can do is this: back your stove up as close as possible to where it goes through the ceiling. Run a stove pipe offset to the start of your Class A which would start with a ceiling support and up you go. Less horizontal run = more draft. Know what I mean?

Andrew

 

[webby3650]

You will want to run your stove pipe at a 45 degree offset rather than horizontal. Class A pipe is what's needed and the only pipe that's acceptable, wether it's double or triple wall.

 

[webby3650]

The size of the flue does not increase or decrease the draft it does change the velocity though a bigger pipe will have the exhaust running through it slower and it will have more time to cool down and leave creosote behind. And yes there is triple wall class a but it has either less insulation or none at all and there for runs at a lower interior temp than regular insulated chimney. But it is just as safe

I know the possible issues involved with it. On a straight up interior chimney, no issues will result though. It works really well. Of course it is best to size a flue for the stove being used, it's just not practical to have someone replace the entire chimney system because they bought a smaller stove.

 

[sgt_a_bomb]

Swedishchef... When it comes to cleaning, I assumed I'd have to take it apart and take it outside to clean it. I have another stove currently where I have to do this, and it is a bit of a pain, but not a show-stopper. I kind of like getting to see what is going on in there anyway...

Webby... Are you saying I need to run balck stove pipe (single wall) up to the ceiling, at a 45 degree angle, and then start the Class A chimney? Do you have any recommendation double wall VS triple for the Class A?

I attached a rough sketch of the install.

Thank you very much for your help!

 

[webby3650]

You might actually need double wall stove pipe as well because of clearances to the ceiling. Your class a chimney will start at the ceiling, there you will transition to connector pipe and angle down toward the stove. It always good to reduce the amount of elbows in a system, 45's not only increase draft but they will also maintain proper clearances.

 

[webby3650]

If you have a menards nearby, they will have the best selection and prices on class A pipe around. At least in my neck of the woods.

 

[sgt_a_bomb]

Thanks for your help!

 

[bholler]

I know the possible issues involved with it. On a straight up interior chimney, no issues will result though. It works really well. Of course it is best to size a flue for the stove being used, it's just not practical to have someone replace the entire chimney system because they bought a smaller stove.

I agree that i would have them try it with 8" first but to say problems are unlikely is I think a stretch. But in most cases id say lets try it and see how it works first.