Trouble knowing what term to search with

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AtomicDog

Member
Aug 21, 2014
51
East TN
I'm trying to find out if anyone manufactures a beast of a stove without glass. I don't need to see the flames or have fancy scroll work. I would also like the option of burning coal. What would a stove like this be called? (Other than "smoke dragon") Any manufacturer that I can do a forum search on? I would rather have another wall lined with fire brick than a piece of glass. I also prefer side load.
 
To find a stove that fits your description you will need to find one made by a welding shop somewhere.
New stoves are full of technology for the most part, making them expensive. The glass stays very clean compared to old stoves, it's very nice to watch!
The only EPA approved stove that's big, plain looking, and is available without a glass door is the Blaze King- King. Its capable of 40 hour burns, compared to 6-10 hour burns in an old "smoke dragon" stove.
(broken link removed to http://www.blazeking.com/EN/wood-king.html)
 
That's closer to what I've been envisioning. I grew up with tall Warm Morning stoves that you chunked wood or coal in and went back upstairs. I'm currently using an old Englander that side loads 30" splits. I like having the firebrick on three sides. I was assuming that having the glass was a compromise to having the advantage of side loading. Splits don't roll out of a side load. I also have a Buck Stove insert with glass that is a pain in comparison. I know the intent of some of the engineering in new stoves is keeping the glass clean for aesthetics, but at what cost? I also wanted to maintain the option of burning coal. I may never go down that road again, but it would be nice to know that I could. To be honest, I've never used a modern EPA stove, so I may not really want what I think I want, which is why I'm here on the forum. I must be a pyro at heart, because the only thing that prevents me from dreading winter is the thought of fiddling with the stove.
 
Since the requirements for coal burning are quite different than for wood you may need to look for a coalstove that also burns wood. For that you could ask here: http://nepacrossroads.com/

Not sure what you mean by "cost" of having a glass door? Englander sells the 30NC, a 3 cu ft stove with glass door and approx. 70 % fuel efficiency, for ~$900. The only trick is to use dry, seasoned wood and you will easily get overnight burns and heat a relatively large area (I would guess at least 2000 to 2500 sqft in your area.). The old smoke dragons you seem to be familiar with are only 30 to 40 % efficient which means most of your heat goes up the chimney. If you are concerned about splits rolling out, take a look at N/S loaders like the Pacific Energy Summit or the Jotul F55.
 
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By cost I mean feature, performance, or durability. This stove will be in an unfinished basement, so I can easily see myself smashing it with a step ladder or something. I was guessing that there is some tradeoff to designing a stove with a window, such as fewer firebrick or less thermal mass. Maybe not. Last winter the old Englander was heating about 3k well insulated sq ft, half of which is below ground, in near zero conditions. The down side is that I went through a lot of wood and created a lot of creosote. Part of the problem was being my first winter in the house and I harvest my own trees, so the wood had less than the ideal moisture content. Not green but not well seasoned either. The flue was also too big for the stove and in an outside masonry chimney. That problem has been addressed with a liner and insulation.
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Stove glass is not as fragile as you might think. There was a video last fall that demonstrated this very well. Done by a manufacturer as I recall. Maybe somebody can find it.
YouTube woodstove glass durability test Kuma stove
But I can't figure out how to link it
 
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This is a wood burning forum. Not too much coal used here. That is covered well at the www.nepacrossroads.com forum. What is the primary fuel? Would you be able to heat with just wood if the heat losses were reduced?

The unfinished basement is sucking out 25-33% of the heat going into the room. Combine that with an inefficient stove and it's possible that you are burning twice the amount of fuel as necessary or more. That adds up quickly. In general a purpose designed stove will work better and be more efficient than a multi-purpose one. This is true of coal burners and wood burners. That said, a furnace would deliver heat upstairs more efficiently. Hitzer makes some combo units and furnaces:
(broken link removed to http://www.hitzer.com/products/stove/)
 
I took out the coal stove last year. The Englander I have references coal, but I can't see how it would work very well, so I consider it a wood burner. I have no plans to burn coal, but wanted to add the option if it was available. I won't lose any sleep if it isn't, especially since I have a near endless supply of wood. I hadn't considered that the basement would be working against me. I had planned on finishing it out, so I'll add finished walls as well. I guess I should also mention that I have central heat. I burn wood because I enjoy everything about it, but the winters are normally mild enough that not burning wouldn't be much of an issue. Just boring.
 
My experience with wood/coal combo units are that they either are a decent wood stove that you can sort of burn coal in or a decent coal stove that you can sort of burn wood in. Or sometimes just a total piece of crap that does neither very well. You will be amazed the increase in efficiency with a modern wood stove.
 
I was assuming that having the glass was a compromise to having the advantage of side loading. Splits don't roll out of a side load.

I have had a side load stove with glass (two doors) and it was great for loading. What you really need is a stove big enough that you can load straight in, also known as north/south. This eliminates the log rooling out and into the glass problems.

Don't fear the glass, there is no compromise. You should also know that it isn't glass, it's ceramic, much tougher than glass though not impossible to break.

Heating 3000k from the basement and not concerned about a nice fireview you ought to be looking at wood furnaces. Englander sells one. They are big, ugly, appliance like devices that hold a lot of wood and make lots of heat.
 
I took out the coal stove last year. The Englander I have references coal, but I can't see how it would work very well, so I consider it a wood burner. I have no plans to burn coal, but wanted to add the option if it was available. I won't lose any sleep if it isn't, especially since I have a near endless supply of wood. I hadn't considered that the basement would be working against me. I had planned on finishing it out, so I'll add finished walls as well. I guess I should also mention that I have central heat. I burn wood because I enjoy everything about it, but the winters are normally mild enough that not burning wouldn't be much of an issue. Just boring.

Sounds good. I should have said "uninsulated" basement. A wood furnace is worth considering. Besides Englander, Drolet and US Stove make models that are under $2K. There are better units on the market if you want a clean burner that is more efficient, but it will cost more.
 
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Stove glass is not as fragile as you might think. There was a video last fall that demonstrated this very well. Done by a manufacturer as I recall. Maybe somebody can find it.
YouTube woodstove glass durability test Kuma stove
But I can't figure out how to link it
Here ya go, I think this is it...
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCMQtwIwAA&url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUCVms_f0ok&ei=Jsf7U4nCJqfh8gHMtYHYAw&usg=AFQjCNEJ30n7c6cgh1X_anR9G87neaLpuw&bvm=bv.73612305,d.b2U
 
I don't want to over-fire my stove or pipe, and being able to see the fire gives me an idea of how much heat is being generated, letting me stay ahead of the curve on air adjustments.
 
I don't want to over-fire my stove or pipe, and being able to see the fire gives me an idea of how much heat is being generated, letting me stay ahead of the curve on air adjustments.

I agree. What a waste of information and pleasure to have a solid door instead of glass. The heat that shoots out of the glass is not wasted, it heats the room and that heat comes on earlier than the heat from the stove body so it is often much appreciated.
 
Seems you guys are right. I thought I wanted a wood furnace. My wife has enlightened me to the fact that what I really want is an enameled stove with a nice view of the fire. Little did I know...

HehHeh . . . this made my day and gave me a good laugh. Thanks for the morning chuckle AD.
 
try finding a dealer for these in your area. My local dealer has them, very cool stove. i heard that they are not very efficient with wood but are super durable coal heaters. And the flexibility to burn both is nice. The pretty fire would keep your wife happy too.
 
They are decent coal stoves but not all that good as far as wood stoves go. And you cant see the fire in them. I would look at alaska stoves and harman as well they will cost more but honestly i think they are a better stove. But again a much better coal unit than wood and acctually now they are sold as just a coal unit but they are exactly the same as they were when they were sold as a combo unit.
 
Sorry just checked alaska now only sells stoker units but look at harman coal stoves they are good units Never mind they still sell the kodiak as well
 
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Sorry just checked alaska now only sells stoker units but look at harman coal stoves they are good units Never mind they still sell the kodiak as well


yeah , Harman makes som monster coal units , Hitzer is another good brand to look for though they are primarily coal units not as efficient with wood
 
Yeah they just don't combine very well like i said earlier you usually end up with a good coal stove that will sort of burn wood or vice versa
 
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