Trying to make an old log splitter new again

[McKraut]

I bought and old Central Tractor log splitter (20 years plus) that I want to fix up and use this winter. I have completely disassembled the splitter and am trying to clean it up. When I pulled the suction line from the hydraulic tank and drained the oil, I found a lot of junk coming out of the bottom of the tank (it looks like rust and/or paint). As far as I can tell the filter had been replaced (at least once) but I could not get any history on the splitter. I drained all the transmission fluid out, and I want to clean out the reservoir. What would be the best way to clean or flush this out?

Thanks for your help,
Bob

 

[Montanalocal]

I would flush it several times with diesel.

 

[jaoneill]

I would flush it several times with diesel.

X2

 

[McKraut]

I have no experience with this, but I was wondering if I could use very hot water, soap, and high pressure water. Fill the tank with hot water and soap, agitate it, drain it, and rinse it. Is this practical or am I creating more problems for myself?

 

[jaoneill]

I have no experience with this, but I was wondering if I could use very hot water, soap, and high pressure water. Fill the tank with hot water and soap, agitate it, drain it, and rinse it. Is this practical or am I creating more problems for myself?

Soap & water will have little effect on oil based sludge (even hot water). Dump in a gallon of diesel (#2 oil) or kerosene, slosh around a bit, dump and repeat. for stubborn deposits it wouldn't hurt to leave the diesel in there overnight before you slosh & dump.

 

[McKraut]

OK, very good, thanks for the advice. I'll try the diesel and see how it goes.

Bob

 

[jaoneill]

OK, very good, thanks for the advice. I'll try the diesel and see how it goes.

Bob

FWIW, Either will work fine but kerosene is a lighter oil (#1) and will penetrate a bit better if you have any semi-solid deposits.

 

[Babaganoosh]

Throw something in there to knock chit loose. I just cleaned and flushed the diesel tank on my lawn mower this past spring. I threw a bunch of spent but clean 9 mm cases in the tank and sloshed it around. What a difference.

 

[kevin j]

The rust will be at bottom where water settles and at sides and top above the oil surface

Can you get a pressure washer wand in there?

Sheet metal or drywall screws work well. Hard steel with sharp edges and points
I use for rust remival in mc gas tanks
For hydr tank count the screws and make sure they all come out.

 

[McKraut]

I put in 2 gallons of kerosene and let it soak most of the day. I drove around the fields this evening and that really bounced the frame and tank around. I have a lot of 9mm casings I can put in. I will do that tomorrow and see how it works.

Thanks again for the good ideas.

Bob

 

[Fifelaker]

Small nuts and bolts work quicker.

 

[McKraut]

Thanks for the advice. I went ahead and used the kerosene only. Looking at the fittings I figured that it would be almost impossible to extract either shell casings or nuts and bolts, once they got in there. I only have 3/4 inch ports on the reservoir and none of them are in line or in corners. I let the kerosene soak the grime for 3 days and bounced it around one more time, and drained it. Not as much crap came out as I had expected, so I decided to power wash it. That helped to free up a lot more but because of the angles I couldn't reach every section of it. While the tank was empty and clean I welded a new axle onto it. I warmed the tank to help evaporate the moisture and prevent more rust. I will change the oil filter after the first few hours to remove any additional loose particles that get picked up by the hydraulic oil.

Bob