- Nov 6, 2010
and where do we buy these? I don't need a faom contractor breathing down my back. I like to be independent
mhvfd said:The key word here is "infiltration". Like your house, it doesn't matter how much you insulate it, if cold air can find it's way in you won't be pleased with the loss of heat. Water infiltration on your pipe is the worst. The water will fill the drainage pipe and then soak the little wrapped cellulose/reflective material. Now the hot water has to pass by all of this and the old saying of heat goes to cold is true. The water wants to become warm so it sucks the BTU right out of the pipe. As I wrote earlier, I ran my line 150 feet from the boiler to the house and lost 40 degrees going in and another 40 going back, not even accounting for the load from the house or the hot water usage (Potable/Domestic). The "Wrapped" pipe leaves plenty of air space around it, inside the drainage pipe. The micro cell foam looks like a spongy insulation and I don't know that much about it although I would say if water got in there, it might seep down to the pex lines. The stuff I'm using (See below) is hard foam. Even if I got a pinhole in the black outside piping, there is no where for the water to go. It would stay on the outside of the hot water lines.
I don't know where you are located but you could contact the mfg to see if you can get some in you r neck of the woods.
4185 South U.S. Highway 1
Rockledge, Florida 32955
CORVAIRWILD said:I was thinking to do the same thing with my future Waste Oil Boiler. It would run under a large driveway and truck turnaround, so it'll be placed in 8 or 10" corrugated sewer pipe. I wonder if plastic would still be needed?