united states stove company king model 2007

[tahoeacr]

Hello all, just found this sight last week when I was searching for info on where to put my Rutland burn indicator. I am a complete noob and have learned alot already from this sight. I bought this stove back in 03 or 04 for $400 from TSC. Got it up my stairs to my living room about two years ago and last week I finally put the venting in. Got tired of $600+ heating bills in the winter. I know this is a cheapy but it's working well. I did a search(actually alot of searches for my many ?'s) and the only thing I found for USSC was a pellit stove back in 2006. Anyone have one of these? Also, is there generic questions and answers I could read before I start asking ?

 

[BJ64]

Greetings and welcome to the forum!

Could you post a pic of the stove?

In my area most of the wood burners have the USTC stoves from TSC like you may be writing about.

If you already have it up and going you will figure out the rest rather easy. Most of them are simple wood burners which is a good point that is often overlooked. The main trick, as you have read on this forum over and over is use dry wood. It is a must on EPA stoves and a very good idea wit the older stoves to cut down on the chance of a chimney fire.

For now it back and enjoy it!

 

[tahoeacr]

The stove is working quite well. Get's the living rm/kitchen up 12 degrees within less than 5 hours. Also the upstairs will go up about 5 degrees. The house is 3,424 sq. ft. 1,200 sq ft is on a seperate zone. Has a double wall with sounding board etc. and doors at both levels in to this side. In-law place. That side will get down to 35 degrees before I open it up or turn on the heat over there. It works well to open the door when the stove gets it too hot over here. The ceiling between the 2nd and 3rd floor has at least R-19 in it. Don't remember exactly what. The stove sits in the living rm/ kitchen which is open by a 9.5 ft doorway into dining rm. This is 950 sq ft. There is a full bath and bedroom behind the dn rm but is kept shut. Stairs are at the far end of the dn rm. I have put a fan in to blow the heat towards the stairs. Seems to help get some heat upstairs. So now you know the lay of the land. I'm just wondering if I can do anything to make it more effective.

I think the chimney needs to go a little higher. When I open the door to re-load I can get a little smoke out. If I open the door next to the stove it helps. At what point can you make the chimney too tall? 3' rise out of the box goes to about 35 degree. 22" to a 15 degree into a 1 ft straight to the tee. 16' 9" from the tee to the bottom of the cap with two 30's to get around the roof. Going thru the roof doesn't work here because of so much snow. Roof leaks are a real issue. The bottom of the end cap is 17 inches above the roof peak. Roof peak is 8' 4" away. I think I'm somewhere around 3.5' above the roof at the chimney. I was thinking of adding another two foot section below the bottom 30 and raising the 30's higher. Don't know if it's better to have the 30's lower while exhaust velocity is faster or higher closer to the cap. This would put me at 3 1/3' over the peak and 22' of rise total. Not uncommon to have a foot or two of snow on the roof for months. Any thoughts?

 

[wolfkiller]

I would say 3 more feet definatly wont hurt. Your chimney could go through the roof without worries of leaks if done properly. I have installed several in varies parts of Alaska some areas that get 300" of snow a year and ofter have 6-8 feet of snow for 7 months of the year.

 

[NitroDave]

The house is 3,424 sq. ft. ................ Any thoughts?

Yes.....I can't afford that much house. ;-P


If you have any more pics I would like to dream some more.