US stove company buyer beware

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I'm light it up tomorrow and check it again. Still the stove isn't running right. Blower when I start it runs ok then it does a pulse type thing . I push the on button and blower goes to
Normal. Didn't run to long due to the smoking.
 
I'm light it up tomorrow and check it again. Still the stove isn't running right. Blower when I start it runs ok then it does a pulse type thing . I push the on button and blower goes to
Normal. Didn't run to long due to the smoking.

I had a King 5510 for a short while, recall the exhaust fan pulsed up and down in auto mode. Normal behavior, i think you might be able to tweak it a bit to run the way you'd like. Regular US Stoves like the 6041/39 have more adjustability (manual with adjustable damper, plus auto modes with calibration tweaks). I'm not well versed in Ashley/King stoves, but from from memory there is plenty on the internet to fill in the blanks.
 
Tape sounds like a winner. But as I said the stove it self is junk in my opion. When you run a test cycle it fails that. When you start it up it seems to be fine then the blower starts to pulse. Like little puffs of air and threw the viewing window all you see is smoke.if you press the on the blower starts running as it should. I didn't run it long time due to exhaust leak. Buy either way the stove it self isn't running correct.
 
Chops ... apparently the motor does pulse ... intentionally. Not sure why but have seen several reports from other owners.
 
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why don't you seal your leak or leaks and fire the stove backup and let it run through a complete startup cycle so that it's in burn mode and then report back with what is going on.
 
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Try and get some self bonding silicone tape available in the plumbing and electrical depts. Stretch it tight around ALL, I can't impress enough, All joints on Duraleak pipe. A pin hole can drive one to the funny farm and if one wants to move or change a venting arrangement you can easily cut on the joint and remove the tape. You went with the cheaper pipe and the price to be paid is you have to used $5 worth of tape.
 
When you run a test cycle it fails that.
What is it failing? It might be something easy to fix or something that would tell you not to even attempt to light the stove.

then the blower starts to pulse
It's supposed to do that.

if you press the on the blower starts running as it should
No it's not running as it should. Let the stove go through the startup and reach operating temps. If you could post a pic of that board I'm betting you are overriding the startup sequence and going into a manual burn, the stove will not work right doing that.

All joints on Duraleak pipe.
THIS!! Repeat, you really need to assure that all the joints are sealed!

Get those joints sealed then restart the stove and allow it to go through the startup sequence, once it reaches a certain temp then you can say if it is running right or not.

Also what is the exact Model # of that stove, there are 3 different ones that I can find.
 
Chops. Put a hose clamp around where the pipe meets the collar. Also im just curious what your evl is? Also are you running on a dedicated circuit ? Mine used to pulse at times when it was on a shared circuit
 
It's a King pellet 5502M. And it's plugged into wall outlet with surge protector by it self. I'm going to buy that tape and seal the exhaust pipe. I did a dry run and the draft fan setting inductor kept flashing. Manual says door is open, or negative pressure in the room with respect to exhaust. The door was closed. I don't know what eles to do
 
It's a King pellet 5502M. And it's plugged into wall outlet with surge protector by it self. I'm going to buy that tape and seal the exhaust pipe. I did a dry run and the draft fan setting inductor kept flashing. Manual says door is open, or negative pressure in the room with respect to exhaust. The door was closed. I don't know what eles to do
Try jumping out the vaccum switch for testing purposes only.
 
Well it's weird becouse if I open the front door to were the burn pot is it runs steady. Close it it runs in a pluses
From post #60. This is operating correctly.

I did a dry run and the draft fan setting inductor kept flashing. Manual says door is open, or negative pressure in the room with respect to exhaust
If that is what is happening then the Draft Fan should be running like you stated in post #60. If it isn't then like Lordmetal said something else has happened to the pressure switch.

It can't run both ways, one time boosting the DF by opening the door and then DF light flashing showing loss of pressure without the door open, something happening that is allowing to much air.
 
I've got a hose clamp I'll put on exhaust and that tape. And I did jump the pressure switch was the same. Once I tape the connection I'm try another light up . Just really pisses me off with something new ive got to go threw all this trouble. Id like to thank you all for the advice, I've got more info here on this form than anybody at us stove for sure.
 
I would like to see how many at CS at USSC even have a stove.
 
Ok update. I jumped the pressure sensor switch and the blower motor does not come on. Now when I reconnect it it does that pulse thing with the led light flashes. Hear the motor start for like a second at the same time light comes on the for a second. Really hate this stove. This was in test mode.
 
Ok folk. I started it up let it do its thing. Blower motor still does pulse thing after it warm up to temp room fan kicked in. Sometimes blower motor goes full. But it's running and it's been an hour. Blow good heat on heat setting 2. No smoke tape and clamp did the trick. 1st time I've got heat outs this junk
 
Maybe that's the way this stove works. Exhaust just does pulse kinda puffs. But will go full at times. Room fan blows just fine and been running steady so far 90 mins no problems yet. Heat is decent. So I'm having a beer and a shot with my fingers crossed. Thanks for the help and remember don't buy us stove buyer beware!
 
Why wouldn't Tractor Supply take a return???
Speaking of returns. I was in Tractor Supply few weeks back noticed a returned stove dirty with ash and pellets in it! They had it marked at same price as new lol. I have my Harman P43 in dining room but went cheap with US Stove in basement and it works but it's a pain. Learned my lesson.
 
Speaking of returns. I was in Tractor Supply few weeks back noticed a returned stove dirty with ash and pellets in it! They had it marked at same price as new lol. I have my Harman P43 in dining room but went cheap with US Stove in basement and it works but it's a pain. Learned my lesson.
I'm guessing it's more of a pain because the board is different. A friend has a P61 and asked for help with his. I went over and that board was a pain IMO. But they each do the same thing just have a different way to adjust them. Once you do some homework on that USSC board I think you will find the stove (at least the adjustments/settings) to be much easier to set and forget. Those boards have a lot of adjustments that can be made to adjust to your install and the fuel types. Once you tweak it in they do a great job of controlling burn rates and temps. Keep notes on how it burns for different pellets and use that to adjust anytime you switch.
 
Running mine for the second season, no issues yet. Sorry you got a bad one!
 
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