Used 2010 hearthstone equinox
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I bought a used one a little over a year ago and am very happy. Transporting it is lots of fun so make your plans carefully.
The obvious question I always ask is: why are you selling it? They may give you a BS answer but even that tells you something.
The Equinox can pretty well have every piece replaced so if anything is broken, it's not going to mean the stove is useless, just time and money to replace the part. The baffle is ceramic and 1/4 thick so I would expect it to be damaged and that's where I would look first. Open the front door and it's right above the 4 tubes Mine has been cracked for awhile and does not affect performance that much. I bought a replacement but waiting for a good day to switch it. It's very easy to crack the baffle when loading wood carelessly.
Handles/latches are prone to breaking and need adjusting. They are a bit pricey to replace so when moving the beast, do not pull or push on a handle, it cannot handle the strain. Adjusting them is easy. I completely disassembled the rear fans and did a thorough cleaning. It's not as easy to do once your installation is complete. The fans (if equipped) come on with a thermo switch. I took a small torch to the switch to activate it. In the end, we rarely use the fans anyway. They are quiet but not that necessary in our house.
I bought a full gasket kit even though they seemed OK. It's cheap insurance to know that the gaskets are good. If you are getting the stove at a great price, it's wise to spend a bit and replace those wear items during installation.
The Equinox requires 8" pipe & chimney which adds to the cost. I just added a damper to mine due to overfiring problems. So far, I am happy with the improved performance with the damper. I would not do that until you see how your draft is.
Other than that, everything on an Equinox is pretty obvious. If soapstone panels are cracked, it's not a big deal. They can be re-sealed with cement from the inside. I have a hairline crack in one at the rear and it doesn't show or affect performance. Read the full manual. You do need to have a few moderate fires each fall to get the moisture out of the soapstone before a full burn. That is pretty normal as I find you only want partial heat in the early fall anyway.
PM me if you have specific questions.
The obvious question I always ask is: why are you selling it? They may give you a BS answer but even that tells you something.
The Equinox can pretty well have every piece replaced so if anything is broken, it's not going to mean the stove is useless, just time and money to replace the part. The baffle is ceramic and 1/4 thick so I would expect it to be damaged and that's where I would look first. Open the front door and it's right above the 4 tubes Mine has been cracked for awhile and does not affect performance that much. I bought a replacement but waiting for a good day to switch it. It's very easy to crack the baffle when loading wood carelessly.
Handles/latches are prone to breaking and need adjusting. They are a bit pricey to replace so when moving the beast, do not pull or push on a handle, it cannot handle the strain. Adjusting them is easy. I completely disassembled the rear fans and did a thorough cleaning. It's not as easy to do once your installation is complete. The fans (if equipped) come on with a thermo switch. I took a small torch to the switch to activate it. In the end, we rarely use the fans anyway. They are quiet but not that necessary in our house.
I bought a full gasket kit even though they seemed OK. It's cheap insurance to know that the gaskets are good. If you are getting the stove at a great price, it's wise to spend a bit and replace those wear items during installation.
The Equinox requires 8" pipe & chimney which adds to the cost. I just added a damper to mine due to overfiring problems. So far, I am happy with the improved performance with the damper. I would not do that until you see how your draft is.
Other than that, everything on an Equinox is pretty obvious. If soapstone panels are cracked, it's not a big deal. They can be re-sealed with cement from the inside. I have a hairline crack in one at the rear and it doesn't show or affect performance. Read the full manual. You do need to have a few moderate fires each fall to get the moisture out of the soapstone before a full burn. That is pretty normal as I find you only want partial heat in the early fall anyway.
PM me if you have specific questions.
I would look for the usual signs of excessive use.
Damaged soapstone & warped cast iron are a couple of indicators.
The baffle, air tubes, glass & gaskets all can be replaced,
although the pyrocream window isn't cheap.
This stove hasn't been on the market for long,
so I haven't come across too many used ones.
It's a BEAR to move, tho, since it weighs 689 lbs, IIRC.
Damaged soapstone & warped cast iron are a couple of indicators.
The baffle, air tubes, glass & gaskets all can be replaced,
although the pyrocream window isn't cheap.
This stove hasn't been on the market for long,
so I haven't come across too many used ones.
It's a BEAR to move, tho, since it weighs 689 lbs, IIRC.
That's like parking a 1964 Ford Mustang out in the field for the winter.
If it's what suits you, got for it.
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I wanted to install in my dirt floor pollbarn somebody had mentioned the stone collects moisture, so that might not be the best situation for this stove. Any thoughts?
I wouldn't worry about the moisture too much. Like DougA said, you have to be sure you burn it out slowly each fall.
Many people keep soapstone stoves in their basements, & most basements can be damp.
I would be more worried about it sinking into the dirt. I'd make sure it sat on some concrete pads to displace the PSI of the feet.
Many people keep soapstone stoves in their basements, & most basements can be damp.
I would be more worried about it sinking into the dirt. I'd make sure it sat on some concrete pads to displace the PSI of the feet.
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