Used Husqvarna 353 or new Stihl MS271?

[illini81]

I am new to wood stoves, and am looking to buy a chainsaw. As much as possible, I will be scrounging for free wood rather than buying. From the preliminary research I've done, I like the Stihl MS271 - it seems to be a higher end homeowner saw. I also found a used Husqvarna 353 saw, which is labeled a "professional saw" (whatever that means...).

Without trying to get the price of the Husqvarna down at all, the saws are roughly the same price (~$350). It looks like the Husqvarna is no longer made, but the equivalent saw (Pro 550xp) is ~$640.

Is the used saw worth it, or does the risk that it was abused or is defective make it not worth buying used?

Thanks for the insight!

 

[Ashful]

Despite not being a fan of Husqvarna saws, at almost the same displacement and price for used pro v new homeowner, I'd go with a good-condition used pro saw every time.

I'm not familiar with the 353, but I'm assuming it has AV and inertial chain brake? If not, I'd skip it.

 

[dougand3]

$350 is REAL high for a used 353. Unless you're comfortable working on 2 cycles, probably better off buying new. Stihl prices are high on homeowner clamshells - like the 50cc MS271.
Lotsa options out there:
1. PP5020AV is a competent firewood saw for $125 refurb. You do need to learn how to turn carb.
2. Echo CS590 is a fine 60cc saw for ~$350 on sale.
3. Dolmar/Makita have pro saws in the 50cc & 60cc ranges for reasonable prices.
4. Husqvarna has 545 (50cc) and 555 (60cc). These are slightly detuned models of XP saws.

If I was new to saws and starting firewood hoarding, I'd go #1. It can be a learner saw and you step up whenever.

 

[Dairyman]

That's a little high on the 353. Compared to the new husky lineup it would be like the 545.

I'd definitely take a look at the echo & dolmar/makita lineup. And here is a good deal on a rebranded dolmar 5105.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AFAQSSW/?tag=hearthamazon-20

 

[Jon1270]

The term "pro saw" usually just means it has a vertically split magnesium crankcase, as opposed to a plastic chassis carrying a clamshell-type motor. Such saws tend to be lighter, more durable, easier to work on and tuned for better performance.

Otherwise, I'm just chiming in to support what's already been said: the 353 is the better saw, but it's not equivalent to a 550xp, and $350 is too much to pay for it. Amongst new saws, there are better values than the 271.

 

[woodhog73]

I think what you will find is that most folks here responding to a question like yours 9 times out of 10 will prefer a "pro" saw in any brand over a plastic clam saw. Meaning a regular magnesium crank case housing your flywheel and crank shaft with a cylinder bolted directly to the cases.

That said I agree with what's already been stated. However many many people will use clamshell saws like the 271 and be fine cutting a couple of cords of fire wood a year with them. After all that's the intended market on a saw like the 271 and 291

 

[Allagash350]

Pro stuff lasts longer than home owner stuff no question. But it depends on the pro using it. Some guys beat their stuff for a couple years then replace it. In this situation and considering your use I would probably recommend the new Stihl. It will last you a very long time with basic maintenance, and I believe homeowners get a decent warranty.
For the piece of mind I'd go for the Stihl

 

[mustash29]

I ran a McCulloch 3214 (32cc 14") for about 10 years. Great little saw for 110 bucks.

I ran a Craftsman / Remington Pro 55cc 18" for 6-7 years. It's older years were rather problematic for several reasons. When it died I got another one like it (Remington is now MTD) because I had several spare bars and about 6 chains. It came with a 2 yr warranty and was a PITA to start after 1.5 yrs. It died before the 2.5 yr mark, lost all compression.

Mad as a mo-fo I told the lady over dinner one Sat evening we were going shopping immediately afterward. RI Harvesting was already closed but Ace True Value in Mystic was still open.

MS 271 with 16" bar & chain, bar scabbard, hard case, file kit, 3 pack of spare files. I also got the 6 quarts of Stihl pre-mix fuel which extended the warranty from 1 to 2 years. 525 out the door. You can also get the extended warranty if you get the 6 pack of Stihl premium synthetic oil mix, but then you still have to worry about the ethanol issues.

Cut a good 1/2 cord the next day. Ran awesome. Left it sit for 3 months. Started right up on the 3rd or 4th pull and cut another 1/2 cord. Used it for a few quick cuts here and there since and every time I use it I think "why did I wait so long to buy a decent saw?"

 

[Catfish Hunter]

I think you'd like a dolmar 421 but now you have to get the makita version. I saw a used Home Depot rental for $197. 16" bar and if you are new to chainsaws this will get you in the game


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[Fishnuts2]

353 for the win. $350 is a little high though. 545 is the current version.



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[begreen]

Although I own a Stihl I like Echo products too. My Echo leaf blower always starts easy and always starts. For a first saw I would look at a bit smaller displacement in the 40cc range.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/ECHO-18-in-40-2cc-Gas-Chainsaw-CS-400-18/100675470

 

[Catfish Hunter]

I am new to wood stoves, and am looking to buy a chainsaw. As much as possible, I will be scrounging for free wood rather than buying. From the preliminary research I've done, I like the Stihl MS271 - it seems to be a higher end homeowner saw. I also found a used Husqvarna 353 saw, which is labeled a "professional saw" (whatever that means...).

Without trying to get the price of the Husqvarna down at all, the saws are roughly the same price (~$350). It looks like the Husqvarna is no longer made, but the equivalent saw (Pro 550xp) is ~$640.

Is the used saw worth it, or does the risk that it was abused or is defective make it not worth buying used?

Thanks for the insight!

So any update on which saw you bought? Pics or video throwing chips?


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[Catfish Hunter]

Although I own a Stihl I like Echo products too. My Echo leaf blower always starts easy and always starts. For a first saw I would look at a bit smaller displacement in the 40cc range.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/ECHO-18-in-40-2cc-Gas-Chainsaw-CS-400-18/100675470

I agree that 40cc range for a year or two was a great place when I started. I cut a lot of elm snags and smaller stuff to begin with and felled a ton of boxelder which is a very forgiving tree to learn with.


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[illini81]

So, I ended up finding a new 18" 42cc craftsman chainsaw for $75 on Craigslist. Based on input from this thread, I decided to buy a lower end saw to start out with and then eventually upgrade to a better saw. I figured $75 for a new saw was tough to beat.

The saw worked great for the first few hours of use. However, after the third or fourth time I used it, it now dies on me after 30 seconds or a minute of idling. If I rev the throttle, I can keep it running, and can even cut wood with it, but if I let the throttle go, in another 30 seconds or a minute it dies. It often then is hard to start the second time I try to start it (although I can get it started again if I'm patient).

I don't know much at all about engines, but it doesn't seem to me that the typical solutions I've seen people suggest for this problem (replace fuel lines, replace/clean carb, adjust the idle speed) would apply in the case of a new chainsaw.

Does anyone have an idea what could be causing this?

Thanks for the help.

 

[dougand3]

A new saw can need tuning. They tend set saws lean at the factory to meet EPA regs. Try turning Idle/T/TAS (however labeled) 1/2-1 turn CW. It should be a phillips head. You want idle to be where chain barely doesn't spin. Also, can richen the L screw (nearest cylinder) by 1/8 turn CCW. May need a splined tool. L and Idle work together - if L richened, saw RPMs drop and Idle needs to increase.

Search youtube "How to tune a chainsaw".

 

[Catfish Hunter]

So, I ended up finding a new 18" 42cc craftsman chainsaw for $75 on Craigslist. Based on input from this thread, I decided to buy a lower end saw to start out with and then eventually upgrade to a better saw. I figured $75 for a new saw was tough to beat.

The saw worked great for the first few hours of use. However, after the third or fourth time I used it, it now dies on me after 30 seconds or a minute of idling. If I rev the throttle, I can keep it running, and can even cut wood with it, but if I let the throttle go, in another 30 seconds or a minute it dies. It often then is hard to start the second time I try to start it (although I can get it started again if I'm patient).

I don't know much at all about engines, but it doesn't seem to me that the typical solutions I've seen people suggest for this problem (replace fuel lines, replace/clean carb, adjust the idle speed) would apply in the case of a new chainsaw.

Does anyone have an idea what could be causing this?

Thanks for the help.

I like your idea and the cheap smaller saw is a good place to start. @dougand3 makes a good suggestion. Try some things and keep us updated!


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[Ashful]

A new saw can need tuning. They tend set saws lean at the factory to meet EPA regs.

Interesting. I used to be told they'd come rich from the factory, for break-in, and the user would need to lean it out for power after the first several days' use. Since I usually buy used saws, I have no first-hand experience on this.

 

[mountainlake]

Years ago before the EPA came along they were tuned rich for break in, now a lot are tuned burn up lean as they come a need to be tuned right before using them. Steve

 

[illini81]

You guys will probably get a good laugh out of this, but I think the problem may have just been a clogged air filter.

I was taking a look at the manual just to see what it said about tuning the carb, and while I was flipping through the pages a section on cleaning the air filter caught my eye. The filter didn't look dirty to my untrained eyes, but I figured cleaning it couldn't hurt. I set it in some soapy water, and immediately the water turned a sawdust color. I guess there were a lot of really fine particles clogging the filter. After letting it dry and reinstalling it, the saw started up a lot easier than in the past, and idled fine. I haven't had the chance to cut anything yet, so I'm not positive the problem is fixed. I'm crossing my fingers.

So here's a questions for you guys - how often do you clean your air filter? The manual didn't say anything about frequency.

 

[WoodyIsGoody]

So here's a questions for you guys - how often do you clean your air filter? The manual didn't say anything about frequency.

That's going to depend on a lot of things and every saw is different. Some Stihl and Husqvarna's have a centrifugal "filter" built into the air intake which reduces the frequency of filter cleaning. I put "filter" in quotes because it's not a filter in the traditional sense, it just separates the larger particles from the intake airstream. The auto-tune saws automatically adjust the mixture as your filter flows less air so it is less necessary to clean it all the time (although cleaning it will restore any lost power). My new saw has a canister style filter which reduces filter cleaning frequency. But the biggest variable of all is whether or not your chain is well sharpened. Because big, cleanly cut shavings do not clog air filters, fine particles do.

Even with old school air filters, manual tuned carbs and no centrifugal air cleaning technology, I could go many tanks of fuel without removing my air filter. I would give it a quick brush with a dry toothbrush (without removing the filter) after 2-3 hours of solid cutting. Typically, that would be once/day. But I kept my chain sharp. A dull chain, or a poorly filed chain can severely clog an air filter in less than 10 minutes of cutting.

If you do a full cleaning (more than a light brushing of the filter with the filter in place), it's good to remember to re-tune your carb afterwards (unless the saw is auto-tune). Because you want your saw tuned when it's flowing air the easiest. If it's tuned with a partially plugged filter you run the risk of running too lean after a filter cleaning and burning the engine up.

 

[Allagash350]

My first thought was idle adjustment as well. Pretty easy to check you want the chain to just barely want to move in my experience. If you change to a smaller bar you will want to adjust it again so it won't spin at idle.
Air filter would definitely affect it however I would think you would notice a decrease in performance while operating the saw if it was that bad. Most times dying out at idle is just a simple turn off the screw though. If the car needs adjusting most times a shop will have to do it unless the tool is available to you