USSC 6041 Igniter settings

[tekan1]

Hi gang,

I just received a new circuit board for my 6041 and I presume the settings are all back to the factory default.
Would anyone know how to make the manual setting adjustment to increase the heat range of the igniter?
It appears that the igniter doesn't get hot enough to ignite the pellets. Using the same pellets prior to new board.

Also, how can I adjust the other settings to improve the heat output.

Thanks so much and Merry Christmas!

 

[Lake Girl]

What mode are you running in? Corn mode is the factory default and the ignitor burns for a shorter time. Display needs to show Pr. Apparently you can use the Cr mode but have to add pellets to the pot first...

 

[tekan1]

It is in PR mode....it is working now, but takes a long time to ignite. I know there are tips to adjust factory settings like feed rate etc....Where can I find them? Thanks

 

[FirepotPete]

You can't change the igniter output. Is the port clear? Does the igniter glow red? If the igniter isn't glowing red then it might not be connected properly, maybe a ground is loose or the igniter needs replacement.

To change your feed rates, push the HR up button and the AUX up button at the same time, then push the up or down on the AUX button, that will adjust your high end (the highest feed rate) on HR5 or HR9 depending on your board.

To change the lowest setting push the HR down button and the AUX down button at the same time and then the up or down on the AUX, that will allow you to change the lowest feed rate on HR1.

You must push the ON button after any setting change for it to take affect.

The DF setting can be changed the same by using DF up or down and the AUX up or down. Don't drastically change these setting as a little can really throw the stove off.

 

[Lake Girl]

Have you tried changing the damper adjustment?

 

[tekan1]

Have you tried changing the damper adjustment?

Yes....I have very good oak pellets..little to no dust. House won't heat past 68° when it is only 32° outside....heat pump kicks on. I seen many people state they have great heat...I'm only heating 800sf downstairs. I have good air supply and a clean exhaust with only two 90° bends. When I turn stove to HR 5, pellets are overflowing and ERR 3 appears. I have all new gaskets and a recent thorough cleaning and service. What are the settings most recommended for comfortable heat?

 

[FirepotPete]

Yes....I have very good oak pellets..little to no dust. House won't heat past 68° when it is only 32° outside....heat pump kicks on. I seen many people state they have great heat...I'm only heating 800sf downstairs. I have good air supply and a clean exhaust with only two 90° bends. When I turn stove to HR 5, pellets are overflowing and ERR 3 appears. I have all new gaskets and a recent thorough cleaning and service. What are the settings most recommended for comfortable heat?

Reference my previous post about changing the settings: You SHOULD check the settings and write them down BEFORE changing anything. This will save you a lot of time and headaches if you change them to much.

I'm assuming you had this stove for the last year and it ran good then. Or has this lack of heat been an issue all along?

Er3 is the stove did reach the temp for the room fan and was shut down after I think it's around 20-25 minutes. If you are starting the stove and it starts ok and then pumping it up to HR5 that's the problem. You have to allow the stove to reach operating temps and then adjust slowly, even with a t-stat hooked up the stove will slowly increase the HR until the temp is satisfied.
Er3 could also be caused by: Auger output failure or jam.

As far as the recommended setting for the heat, that will depend on your setup mostly. You say you have good air supply. Is it all from inside the house or do you have a OAK/FAK outside air kit/fresh air kit? Knowing this will help a lot.

I can tell you that most stoves whether running pellets or corn and no matter the pellet will run pretty good with the HR setting at 2pph on the lowest and 5pph on the highest. Then knowing where you are getting your air from will determine how to adjust the DF settings so that everything will run in AUTO for you.

 

[tekan1]

Hi, yes, I had this stove last year and the heat output wasn't that great either. I don't have an OAK....I just pull inside air in. Igniter is clean but the heat output on 3 or 4 is not that great. I've tried pulling the damper 3/4 -1" which does help with a flame, but not the flames others reported. At 3,9,2,1 settings, the pellet box doesn't really produce a large flame. What else can I try? Thanks again.

 

[FirepotPete]

Hi, yes, I had this stove last year and the heat output wasn't that great either. I don't have an OAK....I just pull inside air in. Igniter is clean but the heat output on 3 or 4 is not that great. I've tried pulling the damper 3/4 -1" which does help with a flame, but not the flames others reported. At 3,9,2,1 settings, the pellet box doesn't really produce a large flame. What else can I try? Thanks again.

OK, can you give me the setting on the board, the HR feed rate on high and low, the DF rate on high and low?
That will give us a starting point as to why the stove isn't firing like you think it should. Also, using inside air will cause outside air to be pulled in the house reducing the total heating of the stove, but not as much as what you seem to be reporting. I'll be around for a couple of hours tonight, might take a minute or so to reply.
Get those setting numbers to us!

 

[tekan1]

Hi again,

ok, here are my settings:

HR- low 1, high 5
DF- low 230, high 270

Is it possible to alter the length of time the igniter stays on?
Also, since I do not have the OAK, there is plenty of space behind the stove to pull air...it is freestanding if that helps with diagnosis.

Are pellet feed settings able to be adjusted?

thanks and how about them Packers?

 

[FirepotPete]

Hi again,

ok, here are my settings:

HR- low 1, high 5
DF- low 230, high 270

Is it possible to alter the length of time the igniter stays on?
Also, since I do not have the OAK, there is plenty of space behind the stove to pull air...it is freestanding if that helps with diagnosis.

Are pellet feed settings able to be adjusted?

thanks and how about them Packers?

I don't know of anyway to change the time the igniter is on, I believe it is timed from the board and shuts down.

No OAK. Then you are using the air in the house only. If your house is tightly insulated, if you have a different exhaust fan running in the bathroom or kitchen that may cause the stove to starve for air. It doesn't matter how much space you have behind or around the stove, you will be adjusting the draft from the manual draft directly under the burn pot.

Previous post you said that you were pulling the damper out about 3/4"-1". I have OAK and the only time I use the manual damper is when starting the stove and I pull mine out at least 1 1/4". You will need to pull yours out further and watch what the pellets do. If they start to build up without burning good then pull the damper out a little more, 1/4" at a time. If it looks like they are burning good but the feed rate isn't keeping up push it in a 1/4" inch at a time. You should have a nice lively fire, don't worry about how high the flames are just that it's burning nice without overfilling or underfeeding and going out in either case.

Here's where the draft setting and the feed rate blend to get the stove running right. First you post that on HR1 it shows 1pph, is that correct? If so you need to bump that number up to 2pph, 1pph is way to low to get the stove up to temp to run properly unless they have some new super btu pellet that I haven't seen yet.

To change the HR1 ( guess it Pr1 or Cr1 on the new board) push the HR1 down button and the AUX down button at the same time, when the board changes state and show the feed rate then push the AUX up button until it shows 2pph, if you go past just push the AUX down button to get it where you want. When you get it where you want push the ON button to make the new setting take affect.

Your DF settings are good to start with, don't mess with those considering you are using the manual draft, those are the factory defaults.

It can take some time to adjust these stoves but it can be done and once you learn it it will come easier each time. The only other thing I can think of is if the jumper on the board for the t-stat is missing, that would cause the board to only feed on the lowest setting even if you bump it up on the board. If all else fails and you pull off the side panel where the board is you can see if the jumper is in place, if not then you need to get one or jump it temporarily with a thin wire. I'll try and post a pic I found on another thread of the board pointing out the jumper.

See where the arrow points, just to the right there is a little black jumper on the board, next to the blue connector on the right. That is the jumper. Be VERY careful if you try and handle the board, discharge any static from yourself or the board go be useless!

 

[tekan1]

I don't know of anyway to change the time the igniter is on, I believe it is timed from the board and shuts down.

No OAK. Then you are using the air in the house only. If your house is tightly insulated, if you have a different exhaust fan running in the bathroom or kitchen that may cause the stove to starve for air. It doesn't matter how much space you have behind or around the stove, you will be adjusting the draft from the manual draft directly under the burn pot.

Previous post you said that you were pulling the damper out about 3/4"-1". I have OAK and the only time I use the manual damper is when starting the stove and I pull mine out at least 1 1/4". You will need to pull yours out further and watch what the pellets do. If they start to build up without burning good then pull the damper out a little more, 1/4" at a time. If it looks like they are burning good but the feed rate isn't keeping up push it in a 1/4" inch at a time. You should have a nice lively fire, don't worry about how high the flames are just that it's burning nice without overfilling or underfeeding and going out in either case.

Here's where the draft setting and the feed rate blend to get the stove running right. First you post that on HR1 it shows 1pph, is that correct? If so you need to bump that number up to 2pph, 1pph is way to low to get the stove up to temp to run properly unless they have some new super btu pellet that I haven't seen yet.

To change the HR1 ( guess it Pr1 or Cr1 on the new board) push the HR1 down button and the AUX down button at the same time, when the board changes state and show the feed rate then push the AUX up button until it shows 2pph, if you go past just push the AUX down button to get it where you want. When you get it where you want push the ON button to make the new setting take affect.

Your DF settings are good to start with, don't mess with those considering you are using the manual draft, those are the factory defaults.

It can take some time to adjust these stoves but it can be done and once you learn it it will come easier each time. The only other thing I can think of is if the jumper on the board for the t-stat is missing, that would cause the board to only feed on the lowest setting even if you bump it up on the board. If all else fails and you pull off the side panel where the board is you can see if the jumper is in place, if not then you need to get one or jump it temporarily with a thin wire. I'll try and post a pic I found on another thread of the board pointing out the jumper.

View attachment 169472

See where the arrow points, just to the right there is a little black jumper on the board, next to the blue connector on the right. That is the jumper. Be VERY careful if you try and handle the board, discharge any static from yourself or the board go be useless!

Hi again,

How in the world did you learn all this about these stoves...trial and error?
I am very thankful for your help. I will apply and record my findings once I get home.

My stove is not set up on a thermostat, so I don't have a jumper wire.
Two questions if I may..

1. Can I run a pipe connected to the fresh air inlet into the basement? Will this work?

2. My exhaust is running directly into my chimney flue....is this ok or does this have a negative effect on the exhaust draft?

Thanks again, Andy.

 

[FirepotPete]

Hi again,

How in the world did you learn all this about these stoves...trial and error?
I am very thankful for your help. I will apply and record my findings once I get home.

My stove is not set up on a thermostat, so I don't have a jumper wire.
Two questions if I may..

1. Can I run a pipe connected to the fresh air inlet into the basement? Will this work?

2. My exhaust is running directly into my chimney flue....is this ok or does this have a negative effect on the exhaust draft?

Thanks again, Andy.

A lot of swearing and then searching and asking questions that were answered by an unseen group of pellet Gods in the eithernet. And some more swearing! These are pretty simple stoves, I don't know why USSC doesn't make a better manual for the users.

If you don't have a tstat then you have to make sure the jumper is in place, otherwise the board is looking for the external tstat to tell it what to do and that will cause the board to stay on one setting, the lowest no matter what you press on the board itself.

1. Running a pipe into the basement will do nothing to improve air flow, you are still taking air from the building proper. Just try using the slide draft/damper for now.

2. The exhaust running into a chimney is a big no no. Your insurance will not cover you if there is a fire. The stove will not be able to heat that great big area of the chimney are run properly. You need to get it vented with an approved exhaust system. They are costly but they are the only way to make it right and get the stove running and heating safely. Do you have the manual for it? In the manual it will tell you how and what to do for the exhaust. There are ways to use the existing chimney but that takes putting approved vent pipe in the chimney and that is then restricted to a certain height. It's usually easier and cheaper to direct vent out of a wall near the stove. Also if that chimney is shared with another appliance such as a water heater then it cannot be used. Only one appliance per chimney now days.