VC intrepid operating questions

[Rob711]

I've been using my new to me 1983 VC intrepid partially inserted into fire box of masonry fire place. I installed stove with non insulated liner straight out top of stove, top plate, cap. Rock wool insulation in top and bottom flue, still need to make block off plate. Burning mostly 2 year old oak and some walnut.
Wow, I haven't turned the heat on yet and we've had some almost record cold temps last week. I didn't expect this to heat so well, being used to open fireplace.
Couple of operating questions.
1. Any harm caused by running it in bypass mode all the time, on reloads if I remember, I'll switch it just so I don't hit the door with a log slam it open.
2. Will the weight of a full water kettle damage the top lid gasket, over compress?
3. How far back should thermostat/air intake lever travel. I'm thinking I should shorten the chain a little. Once stove heats up it closes down the air completely, and lever is pushed back to where it's horizontal.
4. Should front door hinge pins be all the way down, sorry should've taken pic. They sit a little high, 3/16"? Doors work fine, contemplated tapping them with hammer, but if it ain't broke. I did remove doors when I carried it into house. They operate fine and seal, read somewhere that there slightly tapered.
5. It says on the inside of the top loading lid do not fill past fire brick, I'm all for following manufacturers directions. The original manual also shows proper instillation into masonry chimney is via a plate in the flue, followed by a section of single wall. That's it! So as long as I keep it unde 700 degrees I think I'm safe. Am I?
Thanks in advance, and I would not have done this with out the help of learning so much from this forum.

 

[fbelec]

I've been using my new to me 1983 VC intrepid partially inserted into fire box of masonry fire place. I installed stove with non insulated liner straight out top of stove, top plate, cap. Rock wool insulation in top and bottom flue, still need to make block off plate. Burning mostly 2 year old oak and some walnut.
Wow, I haven't turned the heat on yet and we've had some almost record cold temps last week. I didn't expect this to heat so well, being used to open fireplace.
Couple of operating questions.
1. Any harm caused by running it in bypass mode all the time, on reloads if I remember, I'll switch it just so I don't hit the door with a log slam it open.
2. Will the weight of a full water kettle damage the top lid gasket, over compress?
3. How far back should thermostat/air intake lever travel. I'm thinking I should shorten the chain a little. Once stove heats up it closes down the air completely, and lever is pushed back to where it's horizontal.
4. Should front door hinge pins be all the way down, sorry should've taken pic. They sit a little high, 3/16"? Doors work fine, contemplated tapping them with hammer, but if it ain't broke. I did remove doors when I carried it into house. They operate fine and seal, read somewhere that there slightly tapered.
5. It says on the inside of the top loading lid do not fill past fire brick, I'm all for following manufacturers directions. The original manual also shows proper instillation into masonry chimney is via a plate in the flue, followed by a section of single wall. That's it! So as long as I keep it unde 700 degrees I think I'm safe. Am I?
Thanks in advance, and I would not have done this with out the help of learning so much from this forum.

hi rob711 the answers that i know from the manual which is the same for most of the vermont castings line
1: no harm but if you get it hot enough you can switch over and you will get the stove warmer in different spots than in bypass and get more burn time out of your wood

2:no. i run the defiant with two steamers on top.

3:move the lever as much as you need to for running temp but if you have to adjust it. on my stove i noticed that i have to give it more air when the secondary side is used.

4:no. they are fine the way they are. if you slam them down you might wind up binding the door on the hinge.

5: yes 750 according to the manual is good for starting and short term but try to aim for 650 and you should be ok. keep in mind when you move your damper into what the book calls the long burn the stove top temp will drop a bit because the smoke path has changed.

if you don't have it i attached the manual for the old stoves might be the same as your stove. it's in two parts. this is the way i got it but when you print them there's no problem

frank

 

[Rob711]

Thanks frank!! That’s what I was thinking, just wanted to hear from guys running this stove.
I’m going to shorten the chain to air flap two links/balls and see what that does. Appreciate the reply
Rob

 

[tcaddy]

hi rob711 the answers that i know from the manual which is the same for most of the vermont castings line
1: no harm but if you get it hot enough you can switch over and you will get the stove warmer in different spots than in bypass and get more burn time out of your wood

2:no. i run the defiant with two steamers on top.

3:move the lever as much as you need to for running temp but if you have to adjust it. on my stove i noticed that i have to give it more air when the secondary side is used.

4:no. they are fine the way they are. if you slam them down you might wind up binding the door on the hinge.

5: yes 750 according to the manual is good for starting and short term but try to aim for 650 and you should be ok. keep in mind when you move your damper into what the book calls the long burn the stove top temp will drop a bit because the smoke path has changed.

if you don't have it i attached the manual for the old stoves might be the same as your stove. it's in two parts. this is the way i got it but when you print them there's no problem

frank

I just refinished a VC Intrepid 1 circa 1983. I am looking for information on UL certification. Anyone have any information on that?

 

[fbelec]

sorry about the ul but great job on the stove