VC Resolute Newbie

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VC Resolute III

New Member
May 26, 2023
22
Lempster NH
Good Morning from Lempster NH. First post here so thanks for allowing me to pull up a chair. So, 7 years ago my wife and I took over her late parents camp in Lempster. I really hadn't been used and maintained a lot since my FIL passed in 2005. When my MIL passed in 2015 we took over the place and have had our hands full with repairs. The camp was built in 1956 an had a very nice (large) field stone fireplace. When my in-laws bought the place in 1978 there was a wood stove in place that was placed inside the fireplace (not an insert) My FIL hated the stove and replaced it around the early eighties. Since we took over the camp the amount of work the camp needed precluded paying any attention to looking at the stove. We would like to use it and that's why I'm here.

I know it's a Vermont Castings Resolute as it's stamped on the side. It has 2 doors so I "believe" it's version III. Early eighties stove I do "believe" I have never used a wood stove and looking over this model it's called a heater stove (I think) and it's a bit more complicated than I was thinking. So, I fully realize the dangers of "I read it on the internet" That being said I read on the Internet (LOL) that it is a downdraft stove that can be a PITA to use and can be smoky until hot. Also it may need rebuilding at its age although it hasn't been used since 2005. Rebuilding I have no clue and the wife and I are thinking perhaps just going new but her Dad loved the stove and we don't want to discard it if it has some quality life left. I would appreciate the views and opinions here of wood stove folks as I simply have no clue.
Thanks in advance.
Harry
 
I bought the original Resolute in 1980. It was a good heater and fairly easy to operate. Properly installed and run, the early VC's were well-behaved. A lot of the problems happened with the later models.

A good place to start is with the manual. It's posted here in 3 parts here and covers all the early VC models.
Then post some pictures of the stove inside and out, front and back, so that we can see the current condition.
 
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I bought the original Resolute in 1980. It was a good heater and fairly easy to operate. Properly installed and run, the early VC's were well-behaved. A lot of the problems happened with the later models.

A good place to start is with the manual. It's posted here in 3 parts here and covers all the early VC models.
Then post some pictures of the stove inside and out, front and back, so that we can see the current condition.
Thanks for the manual link. Can I post photos here from my cell phone? I'll get the front easily enough but the back is against the original field stone fireplace and the sides don't have a lot of clearance. If it did need some work it would need to be taken out of the fireplace to be able to work on it. I'm at the camp now but don't have my camera and those photos I know how to post. I am iffy on cell phone ones.

Now don't laugh...too much...but last September, at age 68, I got my first cell phone. And only because I had to because of the 4G thing.

Thanks again
Harry
 
If you use the attach files button below the text box you can post pics from your phone.

Choose photo library to choose your photo from pics you have already taken.

[Hearth.com] VC Resolute Newbie
 
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Thanks for the manual link. Can I post photos here from my cell phone? I'll get the front easily enough but the back is against the original field stone fireplace and the sides don't have a lot of clearance. If it did need some work it would need to be taken out of the fireplace to be able to work on it. I'm at the camp now but don't have my camera and those photos I know how to post. I am iffy on cell phone ones.

Now don't laugh...too much...but last September, at age 68, I got my first cell phone. And only because I had to because of the 4G thing.

Thanks again
Harry

If you use the attach files button below the text box you can post pics from your phone.

Choose photo library to choose your photo from pics you have already taken.

View attachment 312985
Thanks. I have a Pixel 6A through Verizon. So far I was able to "share" my pictures to my gmail. I went to gmail and they are there. The only thing I see in Google pictures is another share button which I don't want. I was looking for a download option but don't see one.

FYI, on the bottom of the top loading cover there is a lot of areas and instructions. One area is stamped 4/27/85 so I'm thinking there is the DOM date.
 
as a dinosaur myself,i know what he's talking about.thats why i have kids ;lol ;lol ;lol
I meant to say earlier my first smart phone at age 68. I just had basic talk and text phones for many years for 10 bucks a month. With the new 4G thing they no longer work. But indeed I am a dinosaur and have struggled with this new phone.
 
Thanks. I have a Pixel 6A through Verizon. So far I was able to "share" my pictures to my gmail. I went to gmail and they are there. The only thing I see in Google pictures is another share button which I don't want. I was looking for a download option but don't see one.

FYI, on the bottom of the top loading cover there is a lot of areas and instructions. One area is stamped 4/27/85 so I'm thinking there is the DOM date.
My Daughter is telling me over the phone how to do it. I hope this works.

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I think I did it. I have other photos but these give a decent view. So, if 1985 is correct my FIL passed in 2005. He did not go to the camp in the winter so his use was early spring and late fall. My wife doesn't believe it was heavily used.
 
Yep, that works. Welcome to the digital age. It looks to be in pretty good condition. Is there enough clearance to topload it? Does the bypass click solidly in place when closed? I'm not sure how well the thermostatic air control will work in the closed fireplace space. The radiated heat will throw off the bimetallic. How much is TBD.
 
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A general observation is many installations similar to your in old fireplaces, were not great. In many cases the pipe was just stuck up the open damper, or an adaptor plate was made for the damper but the actual flue was oversized. Chimneys on camps also tended to be lower than optimal for wood burning.

So time to do some research. Is the chimney pipe continuous from the stove to the top of the chimney?. Does it have a minimum of 15 feet elevation from the outlet of the stove to the top of the pipe?. Does the pipe exit the roof higher than any point on the roof?, If not make sure it meets the 3-2-10 rule https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.c...een researching,than anything within ten feet.

Is the chimney insulated?. This can make a big difference if the new chimney is sitting inside of a much larger original flue. Take a good look up into the top of the fireplace and see how well sealed the chimney if around the damper opening. In many cases, there are gaps.
 
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Yep, that works. Welcome to the digital age. It looks to be in pretty good condition. Is there enough clearance to topload it? Does the bypass click solidly in place when closed? I'm not sure how well the thermostatic air control will work in the closed fireplace space. The radiated heat will throw off the bimetallic. How much is TBD.
Thanks, indeed, plenty of clearance to top load it. Not sure about the thermostatic air control yet. What exactly does it open and close based on heat?
 
A general observation is many installations similar to your in old fireplaces, were not great. In many cases the pipe was just stuck up the open damper, or an adaptor plate was made for the damper but the actual flue was oversized. Chimneys on camps also tended to be lower than optimal for wood burning.

So time to do some research. Is the chimney pipe continuous from the stove to the top of the chimney?. Does it have a minimum of 15 feet elevation from the outlet of the stove to the top of the pipe?. Does the pipe exit the roof higher than any point on the roof?, If not make sure it meets the 3-2-10 rule https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/blog/chimney-pipe-height/#:~:text=If you've been researching,than anything within ten feet.

Is the chimney insulated?. This can make a big difference if the new chimney is sitting inside of a much larger original flue. Take a good look up into the top of the fireplace and see how well sealed the chimney if around the damper opening. In many cases, there are gaps.
Thanks! Your points I have wondered about. The original field stone fireplace is massive, it runs up through 2 floors and out of the roof. It does exit the highest point of the roof and rises 4 feet over the peak. Gotta be close to 30 feet. The stone chimney is 2.5 feet by 3 feet from the peak up to the 4 feet built of field stone. Standing on the roof looking down all I see is a single clay flue 12"X8" with a cap just on the flue. I do not see a stainless steel stove pipe from the top. I see a connector pipe from the stove itself so I think your thoughts are indeed correct. The chimney is not insulated. Also, because the top of the chimney is a large, flat space it collects the snow in the winter. The cap is only over the clay flue but the snow around it melts and drips down into the chimney. Since we took over the camp I have a plastic bag over the top of the chimney until we figure everything out.
 
Thanks, indeed, plenty of clearance to top load it. Not sure about the thermostatic air control yet. What exactly does it open and close based on heat?
The thermostat controls the air intake to the stove's firebox. It is located at the top back left of the stove.
 
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All good comments, spot on and very much appreciated.

Had everything looked at and inspected today.

The wood stove was deemed to be in decent condition, that was good.

Indeed, the only stove pipe is the one that exits the stove and up into the beginning of the chimney, perhaps 2 feet. Then it does "dump" into the original 8"X12" clay flue up to the top.

The chimney cap is only a flue cap and is woefully undersized. A full size chimney cap is needed. That's the easy part.

The flue is old and deemed "don't use it" A stainless steel liner is indeed recommended. That's the expensive part. Likely gonna scare the hell outta 3K when all is said and done.
 
I should clarify. The bimetallic is at the top, and back, but it is linked via a chain to the actual air control flap below it.
Thanks. I was able to get over the top of the stove and look down. I saw the chain, a rod sticking up in the back and the small flapper that is run by the coil. The flapper is open at the moment perhaps a 1/4 open.

My wife knows a bit more history as I was still on wife number 1 in the mid seventies when her parents bought the camp LOL. The original field stone fireplace was built without a damper, wide open firebox wide open up the chimney. She said it would fill the camp with smoke, She told me it took her Dad several years to clean all the soot of the woodwork in the place. Placing a wood stove in the firebox was to stop smoking up the camp and actually getting some usable heat out of it.
 
All good comments, spot on and very much appreciated.

Had everything looked at and inspected today.

The wood stove was deemed to be in decent condition, that was good.

Indeed, the only stove pipe is the one that exits the stove and up into the beginning of the chimney, perhaps 2 feet. Then it does "dump" into the original 8"X12" clay flue up to the top.

The chimney cap is only a flue cap and is woefully undersized. A full size chimney cap is needed. That's the easy part.

The flue is old and deemed "don't use it" A stainless steel liner is indeed recommended. That's the expensive part. Likely gonna scare the hell outta 3K when all is said and done.
We had our clay tile chimney relined with a Supaflue chimney over thirty years ago. Pricey but we couldn’t be happier. If I was building a new house I would consider going the Supaflue route.
 
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Well, I pulled everything out, made quite a mess but I had to do it. Old school installation, just a dump pipe, poorly installed. But I have a clearer picture of what I am up against.

1. It is not a straight shot from the top down to the stove. The stove discharge is about a foot in front of the flue. The flue is closer to the rear of the firebrick. So looks like I need to go the flex pipe route.

2. The factory stove collar is slightly oval. 6 7/16" left to right and about 5 1/2 " front to back. Picture 7.

3. Picture 8 is the damper opening, best shot I could get. The damper opening is roughly 30" long and about 51/2" wide. It looks like they stepped on the dump pipe to make it oval to fit through the damper opening.

4. Picture 9 shows the pipe with a damper handle that slipped into the stove collar. They made it slightly oval to fit into the collar and it's a problem. The hand damper is 6" round. By stepping on the pipe to get the dump pipe collar to slid onto the top of this hand damper pipe being oval pinched the 6" round damper plate and it wouldn't move. My FIL likely turned the handle to get it to move but all that did was to cause the handle to separate from the round damper so the handle just spins and the damper doesn't move. I don't know if this pipe was factory of if its a run of the mill stove damper pipe? Whatever the case I need a new one. Picture 10 shows the inside of the pipe. The rod handle just spins inside the flapper

5. Picture 9 also shows in the background the 2 pieces of sheet metal used to go around the dump pipe and to seal up the opening. Problem is it wasn't sealed and had gaps all around it

6. Picture 11 is another view of the damper pipe and the sump pipe collar.

7. Picture 12 is the dump pipe. Stepped on to make it oval and is about 60" long.


Your thoughts and opinions as to what I need to do to get this back up and running would be greatly appreciated. Lowering a flex pipe seems easy. I need 17 feet. I think the top pipe should be a rigid pipe so I can put on a stove cap on it.

The oval connections pinching off the round damper pipe I am not sure how to handle. I could take a sawzall and open the damper plate a bit to accept a 6 inch round pipe? Also the sheet metal placed over the damper hole is poorly done and not sealed and I would like to give that location the attention I think is required.

Also, only the top of the is outside (5 feet) 12 feet is inside the camp. Should I skip insulated pipe or is it still worth the few extra bucks?

Thanks again.
Harry

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Additionally I am having a hard time finding a adapter for the stove collar oval to the 6 inch round to accept the pipe liner.

I have had dealers tell me the Resolute III did not have a oval collar yet although it isn't much of an oval it is oval non the less. About a hair under 7 inches wide and about 5 1/2 inches deep and a little over 19 1/2 inches in circumference.

I have been told it's not a Resolute III

I have been told because of the double doors it is a Resolute III

Were versions I and versions II still made in April of 1985?

Thanks again!