Vent pipe over exisiting chimney liner?

[Jonny12gauge]

This might be an odd question but I am hoping you guys have some input. I have a MASSIVE chimney (12ft x 5ft) and I am having it torn down due water problems. There is only one flue I need to save and that is for my woodburner in the basement. There is an existing liner that is in good shape and I've had no problems with it. My question is, is it possible to adapt the existing liner so it can be piped right through the roof so I don't have to have a new, single flue masonry chimney constructed? And, so I don't have to replace the entire liner from roof to basement? I just want something to go over the existing liner so that it is safe and insulated when passing through the attic and roof. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Jon

 

[double-d]

If you are looking to remove you masonry chimney and ONLY have the clay liner remaining, and installing something over that to allow you to run that up through the roof, for the basement wood stove, that is not the way it would need to be accomplished.
One option would be to remove the chimney, to below the roof line. Then transition to Class A Double wall insulated pipe, and take that back up through the roof to the required height needed. Support it with a roof support if needed, flashing, storm collar and rain cap. From the transition plate where the Class a Pipe will start, you will need to run a stainless flex liner down through the clay tile liner to the basement thimble.

 

[Jonny12gauge]

If you are looking to remove you masonry chimney and ONLY have the clay liner remaining, and installing something over that to allow you to run that up through the roof, for the basement wood stove, that is not the way it would need to be accomplished.
One option would be to remove the chimney, to below the roof line. Then transition to Class A Double wall insulated pipe, and take that back up through the roof to the required height needed. Support it with a roof support if needed, flashing, storm collar and rain cap. From the transition plate where the Class a Pipe will start, you will need to run a stainless flex liner down through the clay tile liner to the basement thimble.

Yes the chimney will be removed below the roof line all around. The existing flexible liner seems to be in good condition. (Sorry I didn't say the exisiting liner was flexible, it seems to be since it looks corrugated). Is it safe to transition the existing flex liner to the Class A pipe at the roof, or is it necessary to run a new liner all the way down to the wood burner? I guess what I am asking is do I have to replace the existing liner or not? This project is already in the thousands of dollars, unfortunately

 

[bholler]

Is it safe to transition the existing flex liner to the Class A pipe at the roof, or is it necessary to run a new liner all the way down to the wood burner? I guess what I am asking is do I have to replace the existing liner or not? This project is already in the thousands of dollars, unfortunately

no as long as it is in good shape there is no need to replace it. Btw you can transition from a clay liner to class a also.

Why dont you post some pics of the chimney. I find it is pretty rare to have one that needs taken down completely.

 

[Jonny12gauge]

no as long as it is in good shape there is no need to replace it. Btw you can transition from a clay liner to class a also.

Why dont you post some pics of the chimney. I find it is pretty rare to have one that needs taken down completely.

This chimney has been the bane of my existence since we bought the house 12 years ago. We've had the top few courses of stone re-pointed, the top cap replaced, then 3 years ago we had the entire chimney rebuilt. The chimney is 5ft wide, 12ft long, 4 ft high on the ridge side and 9ft high on the gutter side of the house. When they tore into it they found the front half of the chimney was false/hollow, doing absolutely nothing. Part of a closet in a bedroom is actually inside this part of the chimney! This huge cavity also causes moisture problems as it heats and cools throughout the year. I think the area for the top cap is just much too large and it succumbs to the elements so quick that it cracks chips and flakes, allowing water intrusion and damage from the freeze thaw process. It was water tight for 1.5 months after the masonry crew re-did the top cap a year after they replaced the entire chimney. The brick work is perfect. I water sealed the brick and used Chimney RX crown coat after the top cap cured for peace of mind. The moisture from the huge cavity forced its way through the crown coat and caused the Chimney RX to fail. That being said I'm over $10k in the hole for this giant headache, and getting water inside a bedroom so it is coming down and all I want is one flue for the wood burner since I can heat my whole house with it! If it wasn't for the wood burner I would roof right over the whole thing and forget about it. I am just too gun shy to throw more money at it to try anything else like a different top cap or chimney vent tubes or what not.

Thanks a lot for the help so far. This helps me understand what needs to be done to ensure I can still use my wood burner safely.

 

[bholler]

This chimney has been the bane of my existence since we bought the house 12 years ago.

ok fair enough

 

[VirginiaIron]

An earlier reply asked the original poster about photographs and I am hesitant to ask Johnny 12 gauge this question in fear of his response. Did you post photos not too long ago of your chimney and ask about flashing options?

 

[Jonny12gauge]

An earlier reply asked the original poster about photographs and I am hesitant to ask Johnny 12 gauge this question in fear of his response. Did you post photos not too long ago of your chimney and ask about flashing options?

Nope that was not me!