Vermont Castings 2022 Dauntless Stove Adapter?

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Cneg34, the selkirk dsp flush stove adapter should work. I had the same issue with my jotul f-600 and the flush stove adapter worked great.
 
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Sorry I'm not sure how that pipe works out. The issue with the dauntless is that the stove flue collar is made for a product to fit on the inside, not the outside as it gets wider as it goes deeper into the stove. So you will need probably a single wall stove adapter then a double wall stove adapter on top of that, then you mount the rest of your pipe from there.
For those who have a Dauntless that they intended to mate to Selkirk DSP pipe, I'll post what I was sold but have not yet tried. It's up at my cabin so perhaps next weekend we will find out. The Stove retailer sold me this "Flush Stove Adapter", P/n is DSP-6-FSA. I assumed they had experience with this as they sell a fair amount of these stoves and I have to imagine the vast majority are using the pipe they sell which is this Selkirk above.

In looking around, I do wonder if this adapter may be better suited for the Selkirk, "DSP Stove Adapter", P/n is DSP-6SA.

Would anyone weigh in? My stove install is several hours from a store! ;)

edit: RAD148 response came in while I was typing mine.
 
@GrumpyDad stove pipe installed. I did not need any adapters other than the 6" to 8" step up because my chimney (and previous stove) was 8". Need some touch up paint but will probably have the first break in fire tonight since it will be low 50's to upper 40's in my area tonight.

IMG_0303.JPEG
 
@GrumpyDad stove pipe installed. I did not need any adapters other than the 6" to 8" step up because my chimney (and previous stove) was 8". Need some touch up paint but will probably have the first break in fire tonight since it will be low 50's to upper 40's in my area tonight.

View attachment 299293
Is this single wall pipe?
 
Yes, single wall. Didn't have any issues with single wall that was there before as far as draft, and like to have the radiant heat from it.
Does this installation have the required clearances for a single-wall stove pipe installation? That is 18" from the flue outlet center to the wall behind the brick and 14" to the side wall behind the brick. It looks like it might, but the camera angle is deceiving.
 
Does this installation have the required clearances for a single-wall stove pipe installation? That is 18" from the flue outlet center to the wall behind the brick and 14" to the side wall behind the brick. It looks like it might, but the camera angle is deceiving.
Quite honestly, it is a little shy on the rear, 14" on sides is no problem. I had a Defiant 1975 with (very thin) single wall pipe here for longer than I owned the house (over 12yrs). I will see if I can move it out but I have never had an issue with it getting too hot and I have a stove pipe thermometer as well as an AT100 thermo to check the cat, so I will keep an eye out.
 
Quite honestly, it is a little shy on the rear, 14" on sides is no problem. I had a Defiant 1975 with (very thin) single wall pipe here for longer than I owned the house (over 12yrs). I will see if I can move it out but I have never had an issue with it getting too hot and I have a stove pipe thermometer as well as an AT100 thermo to check the cat, so I will keep an eye out.
@begreen Is brick considered a combustible? It is my interpretation the 18" clearance is to combustible materials although I am sure you know more than myself.
 
The wall behind the brick is combustible. That's what the clearance is measured to. Unfortunately, one can't see behind the brick and what is happening to combustibles there over time. I would use double-wall stove pipe here for this reason.
 
Yes, single wall. Didn't have any issues with single wall that was there before as far as draft, and like to have the radiant heat from it.
I ask because the challenge I had was with double wall. The outside wall cannot recede down enough due to the stoves collar flaring outward. So all double wall installation will require a single wall adapter that goes inside the stove, then a double wall stove adapter on top of that. Then the pipe goes wherever it needs to go from there.
Stove looks nice there.
 
I ask because the challenge I had was with double wall. The outside wall cannot recede down enough due to the stoves collar flaring outward. So all double wall installation will require a single wall adapter that goes inside the stove, then a double wall stove adapter on top of that. Then the pipe goes wherever it needs to go from there.
Stove looks nice there.
Great thread Grumpy, thanks. I am doing my own Dauntless/DVL install and encountered this immediately. Fortunately a Google search lead me to your work. I called VC today to see if there was anything new and found their solution is still what you have posted here. I will order the 6DBK-AD today.

The sad thing is, it would be nothing for VC to make an extension ring for the flue collar from cast or thick metal. For $3300 worth of stove, it seems a no-brainer.
 
Great thread Grumpy, thanks. I am doing my own Dauntless/DVL install and encountered this immediately. Fortunately a Google search lead me to your work. I called VC today to see if there was anything new and found their solution is still what you have posted here. I will order the 6DBK-AD today.

The sad thing is, it would be nothing for VC to make an extension ring for the flue collar from cast or thick metal. For $3300 worth of stove, it seems a no-brainer.
Glad I could save someone some mental anguish that their entire project may be coming off the rails. It's not uncommon to require an interesting start off from a stove but most already publish what that is, and the company selling it should inform as well. The place I bought my stove from was retrofitting installs until they took learned what piece to start off with or something similar.
Good luck with the stove and ignore 85 percent of my negative comments on here :). Not because they aren't true but because there is a way to operate the stove but you will need to learn it. It's tricky at first and even after having been seasoned through a year, you can quickly allow the flue to get too hot when you are catching a full load on fire or have a bunch of small dry pieces in the stove. So you'll want to get a load started but watch you don't overheat the stove pipe which will make it go ting ting ting like crazy and likely light off all the creosote stuck in there which is easy to get if you turn the stove down and let flames go completely out from visibility.
You'll get to the point that you can put your hand near surfaces to know what's going on. That's what I refer to as using the force. A stove top temp is important to just get a sense of some things but that can show 550 and you could hold your hand on the side of the stove for five seconds and not burn yourself. When the sides are nice and warm that's when I kick over to secondary burn and then adjust air to make sure I see some flames here and there or a large orange bed of coals.
Air control with damper open runs a little hotter than with it closed. So once you close down the damper don't expect the flame to be the same as when it was open.
 
For those who have a Dauntless that they intended to mate to Selkirk DSP pipe, I'll post what I was sold but have not yet tried. It's up at my cabin so perhaps next weekend we will find out. The Stove retailer sold me this "Flush Stove Adapter", P/n is DSP-6-FSA. I assumed they had experience with this as they sell a fair amount of these stoves and I have to imagine the vast majority are using the pipe they sell which is this Selkirk above.

In looking around, I do wonder if this adapter may be better suited for the Selkirk, "DSP Stove Adapter", P/n is DSP-6SA.

Would anyone weigh in? My stove install is several hours from a store! ;)

edit: RAD148 response came in while I was typing mine.
And just a followup, the Selkirk "Flush Stove Adapter" mentioned above worked seamlessly with the Selkirk DSP pipe with no challenges or struggles whatsoever.

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