Vermont Castings stove lost "suction"

[FishVet]

I bought a house this summer that came with a small VC "Aspen" wood stove and a lot of wood. I've been using the stove regularly for about 2 months and it has generally been working OK. When I first started making fires in it, I had trouble keeping things going. Then I realized that the wood that came with the house isn't great for stoves, it produces a lot of smoke when burning and suffocates itself. Not a problem once there is a good ember bed, though. So I've been leaving the door cracked for better airflow when getting things started, but once a good ember bed develops, the fire keeps going strong when I add more wood, even with the door shut. Since yesterday, however, this hasn't been the case. Usually when I close the door I can see flames leaping up from below, where I assume the air is coming in. Now, however, I see nothing when I close the door and the fire smolders out. When I look at the chimney outside, there is a lot of smoke coming out that "falls" as soon as it exits the chimney. Any ideas on what has gone wrong? Something that is fixable I hope? Thanks for your time and expertise.

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

I would guess that your cap is plugged on your chimney. That happens when you burn wood that is not properly seasoned, or you run the stove with too little air. Its possible that the chimney isnt designed correctly, but im guessing user error at this point. When your stove is burning correctly, very very little smoke should be seen exiting the chimney. My guess is your wood is not cured out.

 

[Mike Wilson]

Yep, I think you're burning wet wood, and your chimney needs to be looked at and possibly cleaned. As a short term test, look for some dry wood, or "borrow" some from a friend, preferably something that has been seasoned for a year or so. Also, if you do have a cap, take a look at it and see if it is clogged. If so, I would definitely clean the chimney.

-- Mike

 

[FishVet]

Thanks for your quick replies. Is a chimney cap the thing on top of the chimney that keeps critters out? I forgot to mention that a chimney sweep was here a little over a week ago. I assume he would have looked at the chimney cap, no? Or maybe he messed something up? If it is the chimney and not the stove, why does it work well with the door cracked open? I'll try to find some dry wood and see how it does.

 

[webbie]

Bad chimneys will usually work well with the door left open. That is letting excess air in. The key is what happens when the door is closed.

Check the usual - are the stove pipes inside put together with furnace cement and screws? Is furnace cement used where the pipe enters the stove?

What kind of chimney? masonry? Metal? how many elbos in it?

Pictures would help.

 

[fraxinus]

To the excellent advice you've already received, I'd add a caution about cracking the loading door open. A narrow opening can create a blowtorch effect where intense heat is directed at a small area within the stove. This can cause warping and cracking.

 

[Corie]

Inside the the door opening, there is a cover where the primary air enters the firebox. There is a phillips screw in the middle. Remove the screw and lift the cover plate out. Most likely there is ash packed into this area preventing air from entering the firebox. Vacuum it out and you'll probably be good to go.

 

[FishVet]

Thanks for all the advice. I will get some pictures later tonight and I will check the primary air inlet area. The chimney is a metal stove pipe that goes straight up through the ceiling and roof. At the ceiling there is a black box.

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

Thanks for your quick replies. Is a chimney cap the thing on top of the chimney that keeps critters out? I forgot to mention that a chimney sweep was here a little over a week ago. I assume he would have looked at the chimney cap, no? Or maybe he messed something up? If it is the chimney and not the stove, why does it work well with the door cracked open? I'll try to find some dry wood and see how it does.

It takes about 1 fire to plug a cap, expecially if you combine wet wood with poor combustion control. Check the port corie is talking about, and get some binoculars and inspect that cap.

 

[jpl1nh]

In the really stupid question catagory, do you adjust the air control at all? Manuals are really helpful, here's the link to the Aspen pdf file. (broken link removed to http://www.vermontcastings.com/catalog/elements/files/2007/30000369_Aspen.pdf) Also, the wood supply is really important and it sounds like your wood may be wet. If is not already covered, I'd recommend stacking it very loosely in as sunny and windy a location as possible and covering the top only, not the sides, with some sort of waterproof covering such as a tarp, sheet of plywood, etc. Bring your wood in a few days ahead so it can finish drying inside too.

 

[gpcollen1]

In the really stupid question catagory, do you adjust the air control at all? Manuals are really helpful, here's the link to the Aspen pdf file. (broken link removed to http://www.vermontcastings.com/catalog/elements/files/2007/30000369_Aspen.pdf) Also, the wood supply is really important and it sounds like your wood may be wet. If is not already covered, I'd recommend stacking it very loosely in as sunny and windy a location as possible and covering the top only, not the sides, with some sort of waterproof covering such as a tarp, sheet of plywood, etc. Bring your wood in a few days ahead so it can finish drying inside too.

Yah - I did not hear you mention anything about controlling the air inlet - the one you are about to open and vac out??

 

[Corie]

Well the primary air inlet is at the front floor level of the fireplace. The air CONTROL is at the rear of the unit and operates a flapper that opens two small openings at the rear. There are channels running underneath the stove which carry both the primary and secondary air supplies. These channels are also likely to accumulate ash over time, to the point that air cannot flow through them. I suggest pulled that primary cover plate, but also hooking a small piece of hose to a vacuum cleaner and sticking into all four holes on the rear. You'll be surprised at the buildup of ash.

 

[JimWalshin845]

author="CTwoodnpelletburner" date="1197342361Yah - I did not hear you mention anything about controlling the air inlet - the one you are about to open and vac out??

The manual that Corie pointed out has the deatil as per cleaning and use of the air intakes. Every owner should read their manual and put it in a safe place. Incredible how many use it to start their first fire! :lol:

 

[FishVet]

Funny you guys should be talking about the manual, because I spent a good deal of time sifting through a box of stuff the house came with and actually found it! The primary air inlet was indeed the problem. It had some ash in it, which I swept out, and now the stove is working great.

There does seem to be ash in every nook and cranny, so I would like to vacuum it out. However, I am (obviously) a complete noob here, and I was wondering if there is a special vacuum I need to get? The manual clearly says, in bold letters, "Never use your household or shop vacuum cleaner to remove ash from the stove; always remove and dispose of the ash properly." So what is the proper way to vacuum this puppy out?

Regarding our wood supply....I am really disappointed about it. The house came with two gigantic piles of wood, one in the garage and one behind the shed. I have been using the stuff in the garage. I think it's wood from the property, which is mostly elders and willow (creekside habitat). I feel like it's just bad wood, and will take years to really dry out, if it ever does. The house also has a fireplace, and there were a couple logs in there to start a fire with when we bought the place in July. We actually burned that wood just a week ago, and had a hell of a time getting it to catch. So if wood that's been sitting in the house for 4 or 5 months is still wet, will taking it in for a couple of days really matter? Do you guys think it's a really bad idea to use this wood?

Have not been able to get a good look at the chimney cap yet, as I left before sunup for work at the wildlife clinic this morning and returned after dark. (I am still boggled by the painted turtle that showed up....he should have been hibernating weeks ago!) Since the stove is working now that the primary air outlet thing is clean, do you guys still suspect chimney trouble? Thanks again for taking the time to help me out with this!

 

[Corie]

Yep, that's the spot!

Those two holes on the sides there lead all the way back to the primary air inlets at the rear of the stove. Keep them clear of ash as well!

Glad to hear that was the fix. Now just remember to pull that cover and vacuum it out from time to time.


PS - I'd recommend replacing that bolt with the identical stainless steel bolt. It tends to get beat up.

 

[JimWalshin845]

The reason not to use your vacuum or shop vac is that if you accidently pick up a ember you will immediately start a fire inside the vacuum. They do make vacuums especially for stove/boiler but they are pricey.

Use your best judgement and be safe.

I love happy endings!

 

[jpl1nh]

The reason not to use your vacuum or shop vac is that if you accidently pick up a ember you will immediately start a fire inside the vacuum. They do make vacuums especially for stove/boiler but they are pricey.

Use your best judgement and be safe.

I love happy endings!

Another reason not to use your house or shop vac is that unless you have a hepa type filter, the ash is so fine it passes right through your filter and creates an airborne mess!

 

[JimWalshin845]

Yep... that fine layer of dust after you just cleaned the Castle. We have a HEPA on the vac and a few layers of old pantyhose on the shop vac filter usually does the trick. We just have to be extra careful that the stove is not hiding any embers.

BTW.. got a great deal on a new shop vac last week at Lowes... selling them for $39.97 for the model that was $69. Ours had hit the bricks last winter and we decided we couldn't live without one with all the projects we do.

Happy burning!

 

[begreen]

A drywall filter bag in a shop vac works perfectly for ash with the caveat to be sure there are no hot embers being sucked up.

 

[FishVet]

Thanks, everyone. I will look around and see what's available.