Vermont Castings Vigilant 1400/Chimney Problems?

[seebass322]

I recently purchased a VC Vigilant 1400 (Multifuel built in 1985). The stove is in great shape, and in many peoples opinion would be considered a 'parlor stove.' It's set up in my basement, with an 8" flu that dumps into an external, cement block chimney (lined with cap). Whenever I try to burn wood in the stove, it works great! Then when I try to run coal, it starts turning ugly. I will get a great bed of hot wood coals, make the slow transition over to nut sized anthracite, and then it will begin...my pipe temperature will fall, and fall, and fall...I can keep it at 300 deg. F for up to approximately 4 hours after the switch over, but then it will slowly keep dropping. So does the coal fire and so does the temperature. No matter how I have the stove set too! If I have the dampner wide open, thermostat wide open, and secondary air chamber door wide open as well. I have been following the operating procedure for the new Vigilant coal stove, as it is basically the same stove...with no good results. The only way I can get my coal to stay burning is by leaving the door cracked open and a fan blowing in it's general direction. I have also completely dismantled the internal guts of the stove and cleaned out all the ash, with no change. Is it the stove? Should I be looking for something different? A friend recently stated to me that his similar sized Russo stove has a much larger air inlet, and that could be my problem, lack of air?
HELP!

 

[Tech Dude]

This stove burns hard anthracite just fine. There are three Stainless clean out covers in the ash area - one in the left side, one in the rear right and one in the right side. If any of these are missing, the stove will draft up through there and not through the coal bed. The are lifted in, up and captured down. They are famous for falling out especially after the stove is moved. They get thrown out with the ashes. If missing, fashion some sheet metal cover(s) to replace them until you can order them from VC. (160-2202). However, it may just be your block chimney does not have the proper draft to pull through the burn zone. Block chimneys are notorious for poor draft. You need a draft reading of around .07 - .09" water column. Don't let the chimney fool you into thinking the draft is good because it goes okay the doors open. It could be like my 64 Chevy in the prairies - it was fine until we got to the mountains.

 

[seebass322]

Ok, since we are going to go down this chimney road, what are some recommendations for the fix? A new chimney? Insulate the chimney I have? Any other suggestions? Let's have the chimney talk!

 

[Tech Dude]

Okay - First - do not operate the stove with the secondary shutter open when burning coal. You will loose draft through the secondary chamber. It is there only for use when burning wood.
Were all the cleanout covers in place?
Is it possible when in the bypass mode that there is a leak in the stove up high - around the flue collar or the top - that is diluting the draft and supplying air into the chimney above the coal?
To properly access the chimney, we need to know the following:
1) How high?
2) Internal dimensions?
3) How much smoke pipe?
4) Was anything used on it before and if so how did it work?
5) Do you have access to a simple draft meter? It can be inserted where your probe is currently placed.
6) If there is a chimney cleanout, is it closed and sealed?

 

[seebass322]

Sorry for the late response...
All the cleanout covers were in place, and properly too! I ran wood in it for 2 days straight and then switched to coal, and the coal fire went AWESOME for 3 days, and then dwindled down.
My chimney is Concrete block with a typical tile liner. It is square, and is approximately 8" accross. It stands approximately 20-25 feet, from where it goes through our foundation to the chimney cap. There is a chimney cleanout, and the door latch is junk, so I put another concrete block against it. The cleanout is just a metal door, with metal frame. No seals, just sheetmetal. I do not have access to a simple draft meter. I do not know if there was anything used on it before, as we just bought the house this year. By smoke pipe, I would assume that you would be referring to the pipe sticking out of the top of the chimney? It's less than 18". I have been operating the stove with the secondary cleanout cover closed with coal, closed with wood (just don't need it...)
THANKS!! Burrr....

 

[Tech Dude]

Based on what you said, there is only one possible explanation. If it burned great for three days and then acted up, there must be some coal in between the shaker grates blocking the air from getting up through the coal. When you shake the coal, make sure every two days to use the rake to slide between the grates and clean them out as well as shaking them.

 

[seebass322]

I think I've found my main problem!! The clean-out door, which I plan to replace this spring, was cracked open about 1/2"! The cement block I put up against it moved away from the chimney! I would blame the ground thawing and freezing over and over that would have shifted the block. Now the block is tipped at an angle leaning on the door and the stove is running GREAT! I switched to coal last night, and when I got up in the morning, my pipe temp 2 feet above the stove was at 350-400 (surface) and the coal was glowing and the blue flames were 10"-12" tall!! Does anyone have any recommendations/ideas for cleanout door replacement?